156 NOTES OF AN 



great satisfaction, till summoned off by the repeated sound of 

 the coachman's whip. Next to the Dublin, the most intense 

 inquiries were made respecting the Middlesex election, then 

 pending. I left them with the impression on my mind, hastily 

 received, but irresistible from the nature of their remarks and 

 their demeanour, that these people were not ignorant and 

 factious, but enlightened and ardent lovers of liberty. I had 

 little expected to find that eyes were fixed upon our metro- 

 politan proceedings, and that our exertions were responded to 

 and watched with the deepest interest and sympathy, at a small 

 town in a remote corner of Ireland, where I before had sup- 

 posed the people sank in the greatest ignorance and apathy. 



Just out of Castlebar there are several sweet pretty cot- 

 tages, commanding as fine views of secluded lake and mountain 

 as can well be conceived. Lough Dan lies for some miles 

 along a bottom on the right of the road, backed by the wildest 

 mountains. The country is here thinly inhabited and ill culti- 

 vated, and the cabins very poor. We are neighbouring the 

 mighty Reek apace. The road had been gradually rising for 

 some time. One more turn, and the whole of Clew Bay is 

 spread out like a map, dotted with its numberless islands ; and 

 beyond through the opening, between Cleir Island and Achill 

 Head, is seen the broad Atlantic. We reached Westport about 

 mid-day. The distance is 124 Irish, or near 160 English 

 miles from Dublin. 



Whether it was the circumstance of finding myself in a 

 civilized country, vv'here I had expected the discomforts and 

 inconveniencies of a wild, uncultured, unvisited people, and a 

 different language ; or the feeling of ease and perfect security, 

 where I had anticipated difficulty, and even personal danger; 

 or the fineness of the weather ; or the excitement of travel and 

 novelty ; or the effect of mere good humour, and thorough 

 determination to be pleased and judge favourably, without 

 which talisman no one should ever leave his own home and 

 fire-side, — I do not know ; but somehow or other the town of 

 Westport pleased me more than any place I ever remember. 

 We had the whole afternoon before us. So after ordering 

 dinner at Mrs. Robinson's, — we had no idea that dinners were 

 to be got in this part of Ireland, — we employed it in surveying 

 the town and neighbourhood. And first let me do justice to 

 Lord Sligo's park and domain, which is liberally thrown open 



