RECOLLECTIONS OF TENERIFFE. 447 



from a similar occasion in the Spanish settlements in South 

 America, where the effect of this ceremony is so very peculiar 

 and solemn. We could not help observing, both here and in 

 Madeira, that, excepting on the occasion of festivals or pro- 

 cessions, the lower orders are remarkably unobservant of the 

 public duties of their religion. The priests continually mix 

 with the people in the streets, but almost always unnoticed by 

 the marks of respect usual in Catholic countries. By the time 

 we reached the bottom, daylight had entirely disappeared ; but 

 we had a light almost equal to it, in the beams of a brilliant 

 full moon. The cloudless sky towards the west, instead of 

 being dark blue, was of a most indescribably beautiful rosy 

 purple colour, such as I have never before observed. The 

 clearly defined dark outline of the frowning heights we had 

 just quitted, with the brilliant planet Venus apparently just 

 resting on the highest point, backed by this beautiful sky, had 

 a very fine effect. We were once more on almost perfectly 

 level ground, and our way lay through country lanes, while 

 the air was perfumed with thousands of violets. Several of us 

 rode on in advance of the party and guides, and, headed by 

 one of the ladies, had a most glorious gallop. We swept like 

 a whirlwind through the town of Realexo d'Abaxo, to the 

 astonishment and consternation of the priests and congregation 

 just issuing from the church, more especially as we were preceded 

 by three or four unfortunate bullocks, which we had overtaken 

 on the road. It was about nine o'clock when we reached our 

 hotel, having been in the saddle twelve hours. It would be 

 contrary to the fact to say we were not tired; but certainly 

 most of us were surprised to find ourselves so little so. Never- 

 theless, after paying our due devotions to Senhora Tinoco's 

 well-spread table, we were not sorry to retire to rest. 



'Ith.' — To our great disappointment, we were roused this 

 morning by the sound of torrents of rain, which continued for 

 some hours. Being Sunday, and having two clergymen with 

 us, we thought it would be proper to read prayers, which was 

 accordingly done ; and while thus engaged the day cleared up, 

 and it turned out a very fine afternoon. Not having time for a 

 long excursion, we limited ourselves to a walk to the Botanic 

 Garden, and a visit to the celebrated Dragon Tree, in the 

 garden of a gentleman's house at Villa Orotava. The Botanic 

 Garden is really hardly worth a visit, being in a complete state 



