280 BASSET HULL, Archipelago of the Recherche. [Js^t'S 



time it \vas quite an imj)ortant port, the goldfields' traffic going 

 through it. That was before tlie railway from Perth diverted 

 the stream of passengers and goods. From the long pier we 

 could see quite a number of the Islands of the "Archipelago of 

 the Recherche" dotting the ocean to the south. The boat we had 

 engaged lay at her moorings close to the shore, and another 

 slightly larger boat was anchored near by. Two or three dinghies 

 on the beach completed the local "shipping." I was met by Mr. 

 F. P. Hurley, agent for the Government steamship service, who 

 had made local arrangements for me, and with his assistance I 

 stored our equipment in a shed, formerly the office of the Esper- 

 ance Times, and, the weather being too boisterous for going out 

 to the islands, made the ac(]uaintance of several local residents 

 who had information to impart about the islands. As we had 

 already experienced at Albany and on the way down, much was 

 told of expeditions in the early days, and there was considerable 

 conflict as to what was to be found on certain islands. All were 

 unanimous, however, as to the Mutton P>irds breeding "in mil- 

 lions," but we were told that young birds would be in the burrows 

 by now. Geese were plentiful on some, and Quail were in flocks 

 on other islands. Seals, both hair and fur, tamar (Dama) wal- 

 laby were as thick as rabbits ; "deaf adders," other snakes, rats, 

 etc. — all these and other desirable birds, beasts and fishes were 

 abundant, or anyhow they were when the informant was last 

 on the spot. We inspected our boat, and were not impressed by 

 the "dinghy," an oblong contraption made out of packing-case 

 pine with pointed ends nailed on to show which way the craft 

 was progressing. 



Saturday, November 26th, was fine with a strong south- 

 westerly wind blowing. Larry vSinclair, one of the oldest resi- 

 dents, thought we might venture out as the wind would drop 

 by noon. As he recommended Lion Island for our \isit, 

 stating that there were Mother Carey's Chickens there, we 

 took him along. Sure enough, the wind did drop when we were 

 about half way to the island, which lies eight miles from the pier. 

 It was then I suggested that the motor might be brought into 

 action. The engine was not responsive for some time, and then, 

 after a few convulsive wobbles, it stopped. The light airs took 

 us over a long ground swell, and in about two hours we reached 

 the island. It is very steep, with a great granite cap weathered 

 out like a huge cave. As we approached, a flock of Nankeen 

 Night Herons rose and circled o\er the summit. Three Hooded 

 Se.'ds were seen on the rocks almost within reach of the surge. 

 I sent Wright to try for the largest seal, a magnificent beast with 

 a tawny mane. Sitting gingerly on one of the dinghy's pointed 

 ends, with his rifle between his knees, Wright was taken towards 

 the rocks by our skipper. The seal was not alarmed, and the 

 risk of ca|)si7.ing the craft if the gun were fired being too great, 

 a landing was effected, but with no little difficulty, and at some 

 distance from where the seal was basking. Climbing o\er a 



