on the Murman Coast, Russian Lapland. 521 



in a steamer I had chartered, we visited various islands, the 

 Porsangerfjord, and other places, only to find winter 

 practically in full possession of the country ; and eventually 

 we reached Vardo on the 30th. 



I must ask the readers of ' The Ibis ' to consult a map 

 of Russian Lapland in order to follow our voyage. To the 

 south of Vardo lies the great Varangerfjord, the western 

 waters of which wash the Norwegian coast, and the southern 

 that of Russian Lapland, the Ribatschi peninsula forming 

 its eastern boundary. In the S.E. corner of the fjord lie 

 two islands — Great and Little Heno — some 8 miles from the 

 coast and due north of the entrance to Peisenfjord. These 

 islands are the property of St. Trifon's monastery, which 

 is situated on the Petschenga river, 18 versts from where it 

 joins the sea at the head of Peisenfjord. 



On the 31st of May, when we arrived at Great Heno, 

 more than half its surface Avas covered with immense snow- 

 drifts. Still the air and sea were alive with thousands 

 of Arctic Terns and Puffins, while the shores were crowded 

 with waders seeking food below high-tide mark. Only a few 

 Gi'eat Black-backed Gulls had ventured to commence nesting. 

 The next day we steamed into Peisenfjord, an inlet some 

 ten miles long ; but were soon stopped by ice^ as for more 

 than three miles the upper part was still entirely frozen. On 

 the map published by Mr. Edward Rae in his book 'The White 

 Sea Peninsula,^ three lakes are shown on the Petschenga 

 river, and the lines of forest-growth approach nearer 

 the sea than in any other part of the Murman coast. It 

 seemed probable this district would yield a great diversity of 

 bird-life, and we had decided before leaving home to get 

 there if possible. However, it was evidently not to be 

 at present. 



After spending some days in the lower parts of the fjord 

 and the adjacent coasts, during which snow-storms were 

 of constant occurrence and the filter-tap on deck was often 

 frozen, we returned to Vardo on June 10th. Here we learned, 

 in reply to our telegrams, that the rivers to the south were 

 still frozen, and about fifty steamers were reported to be off 



