The Vegetable Garden. 93 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 



January, 1921. 



By H. B. Terry, Cert. R.H.S. (Lond. and S.A.), Lecturer in Horticulture, 

 School of Agriculture, Potchefstroom. 



This is recognized as the rainy month inland, whereas at the coast it is one of 

 ■maximum sunshine and heat ; under these peculiar conditions the opportunity 

 should be taken to stock the inland gardens with vegetables for autumn and 

 early Avinter, and at the coast to wait until February for cooler weather, except 

 for cabbage and cauliflower. 



Beans. — Runner beans, such as Everbearing, St. Fiacre, Scarlet Runners, 

 White Kidney, Italian Runner, Lima Dwarf, or French Beans should be sown 

 largely, as under general conditions it will be the last sowing. 



Cabbage. — Sow Early Savoy, Surehead, Castle, Mammoth for early maturing, 

 also Brunswick, Drumhead Savoy, Spitzkool for late winter supplies. 



Catjliflower. — ^Make a good sowing for late and winter supplies, if not 

 already sown, using Autumn Giant, Late Italian, Reliance, Southern Cross, 

 Large Algiers. 



Broccoli. — It is a little late for sowing, still, if not already in, sowing 

 should be done; April Queen, Sutton's Winter, and Leamington will be useful 

 now. 



Carrot. — Make large sowings to carry over the winter, if there is room; 

 sow Chantenay, Altringham, Scarlet Intermediate, Nantes Improved. 



Celery. — Transplant in trenches or rows for Ijlanching as the plants grow. 



Sweet Corn. — Make at least two sowings tiiis month, using Golden Bantam, 

 Early Mammoth, Bothnia, Country Gentleman, Stowell's Evergreen in rows 

 three feet apart. 



Cucumber.- — Keep all old plants free from ripening fruits, and make another 

 ■sowing now. White Spine, Fordhook, Long Green, Cool and Crisp are suitable 

 •early sorts. For pickles sow Paris Gherkin ; the fruits are only two to three 

 inches long. 



Lettuce. — Continue to sow cabbage varieties, sow thinly where they are 

 to head, and thin out the plants later on; do not transplant now. 



Melons. — Do not allow these to suffer should a dry spell of weather occur 

 anywhere. If the vines are not bearing pinch the growing points out. Too 

 late to sow. 



Onions.^ — Too early to sow, but attention to growing crops is essential; 

 weeds prevent the development of good bulbs. 



Parsley. — Should be sown along edges or in odd places; if possible, throw 

 some long grass over the rows until germinated. 



Parsnips. — This useful winter stand-by should be sown largely. Sow the 

 seeds thicker than most other seeds, as the percentage of germination is usually 

 about 65 per cent. 



Peas.— Make a sowing of Black-Eyed Susan, as this variety stands heat 

 V/ell; in cooler districts try American Wonder, Gradus. 



Radish. — Continue to sow for quick use, say thirty days. 



Spinach. — New Zealand Spinach should be providing ample supplies where 

 it was planted. Swiss Chard or Spinach Beet is the best to sow now, as it 

 carries through autumn and winter. 



Marrows and Squash. — Make a final sowing of the bush types of Custard 

 Squash and Long Marrows. Where mildew has attacked older plants, have 

 these burned. 



Tomatoes. — Plant out any strong plants if available, push them along and 

 thin out side growths; keep plants off the ground, and where necessary spray 

 against leaf blight with bordeaux mixture. 



Turnips. — A start may be made with Turnips and Swedes, though it is a 

 trifle too hot yet; Snowball, Jersey Six Week, Red Top Globe, and Red Leaf 

 Strap are useful turnips. 



Potatoes. — Make main crop planting on high veld; plant good-sized seed; 

 see that only healthy tubers are used. Up-to-date, Factor, Five Towers, 

 Scottish Triumph, German Blues are suitable. 



