1895.] on a Recent Journey in Afghanistan. 577 



possibilities by the more organised structure of modern states and by 

 the application of mechanical science to the pursuit of war. It was 

 from this tomb that were carried off by General Nott, in 1842, the 

 famous sandal-wood gates of Somnath, about which Lord Ellen- 

 borough issued his absurd and pompous proclamation to the princes 

 and people of India, which were not the gates of Somnath at all, 

 and which now repose in the meritorious obscurity of the magazine 

 at Agra. 



Kelat-i-Ghilzai is also a fortified enclosure, erected on the summit 

 of a long and narrow elevation which rises abruptly from the valley 

 of the Tarnak. Like Ghuzni, its walls have witnessed both the 

 heroism of British assault and the sufferings of an arduous siege. 

 Like the defences of Ghuzni, also, they are now in a state of almost 

 complete decay. 



In the centre of the fort is a lofty artificial mound or mm, on the 

 top of which used to be planted a big gun ; but the muzzle was blown 

 off by a young British officer in 1879, and the gun was rolled down 

 the slopes, from which it has since entirely disappeared. 



Similar conditions, as regards external repair, or rather the lack 

 of it, prevail in the case of Kandahar. More than any site in 

 Afghanistan is this place associated with British recollections, for it 

 has been in British occupation on two occasions for a longer period 

 than any other Afghan city, and its proximity to the British frontier 

 has at times led some persons to favour the idea of a more complete 

 absorption. To most English readers the name will perhaps suggest 

 the successful battle fought outside its walls by Lord Roberts on 

 September 1, 1880, at the termination of his brilliant march, and it 

 was with no small emotion that I rode over every yard of that historic 

 battlefield. But to me, Kandahar is at least equally interesting as 

 having been the scene of the labours from 1839 to 1842, of that 

 which to my mind was the most gifted and far-seeing English intel- 

 lect that has in the present century been applied either to the learned 

 study, or to the practical direction of Central Asian affairs, viz., the 

 late Sir Henry Eawlinson. Those of us who tread at a distance in his 

 footsteps, will always regard him as our master, and will lose no 

 opportunity of paying honour to his respected name. 



I had a great reception in Kandahar, riding into the city at the 

 head of a large cavalry escort, and being saluted on the Topkhaneh or 

 parade ground, outside the Ark or citadel, by the entire garrison. I 

 was accommodated in the Dowlet Serai, one of the few buildings in 

 the enclosure of the Ark which is in any state of repair ; the re- 

 mainder of the houses and walled enclosures, which 50 years ago 

 used to accommodate the Barukzai Sirdars, having almost completely 

 fallen to pieces. Kandahar is a very busy place, owing to its close 

 proximity to the Indian frontier, and to the great volume of trade 

 that passes through, and the bazaars were always crowded in the 

 morning. I spent several days there, visiting every scene or site of 

 interest in the neighbourhood. But as a warning to possible visitors 



