198 Journal of the Department of Agriculture. 



Breeding Pens. 



The same mash, minus the meat meal, Crayferine, and green bone, fed " dry '' to the 

 breeding hens in the morning, and the grain food fed at night with liberal supplies of green 

 food at midday, should suffice. 



Specially see to the feeding of the male bird ; he must be kept in good condition ; feed 

 him separately from the hens at midday with a little table scraps. 



Do not allow the temptation of high prices for new laid eggs to lead you into forcing 

 the brfeding-pen birds to produce abnormally, for this will only be at the cost of fertility 

 and will result in weakened chicks. 



Nor should eagerness to fill the incubator, or to supply orders for day-old chicks or 

 settings of eegs, lead to the above, as it is a poor policy in the end. 



Again, do not put more hens to the male bird than he can possibly fertilize. The follow- 

 ing are safe numbers as a guide. Heavy varieties, 3 to 6. Light varieties, 5 to 9. 



This is one of the best months of the year to hatch chicks, but they must be from eggs 

 produced normally. 



All eggs should be gathered daily, as eggs if exposed to frost are liable to give poor 

 hatching results, and are not so good for eating owing to evaporation being sc much more 

 rapid. 



Incubation. 



Visit your incubator room at night just before retiring, and note the temperature of 

 the room as well as that of the drawer ; a little attention in this direction may prevent 

 losses from " dead in shell." 



If the hens go broody, give them eggs ; they are useful in looking after incubated chicks 

 as these hatch. In spite of all the abuse showered on the old broody hen in regard to broken 

 eggs, insects, etc., there are few of our large breeders who do not hatch their show aud com- 

 petition winners under the hen. 



When the machine is due to hatch, do not open the drawer to show every friend the 

 little things coming out. Once a day is the most it should be done. The drawer should 

 on no account be opened more than ouce daily during the hatching period. 



Chickena. 



After being hatched do not feed the chicks for .^6 to 48 hours or bowel trouble will 

 result. 



Their first feed should be coarse sand or very fine flint grit. Therefore, for the first 

 three or four weeks coarse oatmeal and chicken Croats are best, with liberal feeds of finely 

 chopped green food and ants, but no damp or moistened food should be given them. 



Milk to drink will also be found excellent, but it should always be given either sour or 

 fresh. The foimer is better. 



The feeding should be a little at a time, but often, about every three hours as much as 

 they will clean up readily. 



Do not pamper or attempt to rear weak chicks, as these are a fruitful source of trouble 

 even if they do live. 



Visit your small chicks after having been to the incubator house and see that they are 

 comfortable ; observation and interest will soon show if they are, and if not, what is wrong. 



Should the air smell foul on opening the lid of the brooder, the ventilation is bad. If 

 the chicks are swaiming upon each other they are either cold or seeking fresh air. If 

 screaming and shivering, they are cold, wanting warmth. If gasping and drooping wings, 

 they are overheated and need more ventilation. If sleeping and spread out over the floor, 

 they are contented and comfortable. Feel their crops ; at night these should be hard and 

 full. 



The Journal aims at keeping farmers informed of what the 

 Department of Agriculture is doing, also of sucli matters ajffecting 

 their interests as come under its purview. The Journal contains 

 original articles for the guidance of the farmer on the many and 

 diverse problems which face him. Every farmer should lead it and 

 keep it. 



