868 Journal of the Department of Agriculture. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN, 



December, 1920. 



By H. B. Terry, Cert. R.H.S., Lecturer in Horticulture, School of 

 Agriculture, Potchefstroom. 



This is a busy month in the vegetable garden, for not only must late sowings 

 of summer crops be made, but first sowings of autumn and winter vegetables 

 be thought of. Some discrimination is necessary as to what should be sown in 

 different districts. In the colder districts the sowing of summer crops should 

 cease 'ind a start made to hurry along winter crops, such as Carrots, Cabbage, 

 Cauliflower, and Swiss Chard. 



Cabbage. — Make a first sowing of Castle, Early Savoy, Mammoth, Surehead, 

 Copenhagen Market, and Offenham. Keep the young plants growing vigorously 

 right fiom the start and control Bagrada Bug. 



Cauliflower. — To obtain early heads make large sowings of Gilt Edge, 

 Eclipse, and Snowball as the earliest, to be followed by Veitche's Autumn 

 Giant and Italian Giant. Treat the seed-beds and transplant in a similar 

 manner to Cabbage. 



Broccoli. — This is a hardy type of cauliflower, succeeding in localities too 

 severe for ordinary cauliflower. The heads are larger but take longer to mature. 

 Sutton's Autumn Mammoth and April Queen are medium late; Metropole and 

 Self Folding are late, requiring nine months to mature. Treat the same as 

 Cabbage and Cauliflower. 



Beet. — A good sowing of an early sort and also a long-rooting variety 

 should be made for succession. Do not choose recently manured soil or the roots 

 will split owing to the heavy rainfall, etc. 



Beans. — Sow dwarf sorts fortnightly; they mature in eight weeks. 



Carrots. — A good sowing should be made for autumn ; Chatenay, Altring- 

 ham, Danver's Yellow, and James' Intermediate are suitable varieties. 



Celery. — Pi'epare for transijlanting next month ; if not already sown it 

 will save time to purchase plants. 



Cucumber. — Destroy any plants showing mildew and make another sowing 

 for succession ; do not allow any fruits to remain uncut, as they prevent others 

 forming. 



Sweet Corn. — Sow every two weeks to keep up supplies of tender cobs later 

 on. The rows should be 2^ feet apart, and each plant 1 foot distant. 



Lettuce. — Continue to sow every three weeks ; at this period there is always 

 a tendency to bolt to seed during hot weather. 



Melons.- — The last sowings of this season may be made; it is necessary to 

 select a site with perfect drainage. 



Onions.- — Store any crop that may have ripened recently. Continue to sow 

 for green salad onions; also sow thickly for producing small pickling bulbs; 

 use the Queen. 



Parsnips. — On ground which was manured for some previous crop, make 

 a good sowing. If the soil is shallow or heavily manured the roots fork. If 

 sown now they should provide a good supply throughout winter. 



Radish. — Try the half-long varieties now. Icicle, French Breakfast, Olive 

 Shaped, Long Red, and Sparkler. These stand better in the heat than turnip- 

 rooted sorts. 



Spinach. — The New Zealand variety sown in rows 2 feet apart and thinned 

 out to 1 foot apart will thrive better and give more food than ordinary spinach. 



Marrows and Squash. — Another sowing should be made of the bush types 

 if a succession is required. 



Tomatoes. — Keep all growing plants tied up to protect them from storms 

 and disease. A spraying with bordeaux mixture will be a great help in checking 

 disease. Seedlings transplanted now will fruit in the autumn and until the 

 frosts kill them off. Too late to sow now and expect fruit, except in low veld. 



Potatoes. — Plant a small crop, but prepare to plant the main crop at the 

 end of the month or early January on the high veld. Secure the required 

 quantity of seed while you may. Five Towers, Up-to-Date, Factor, King of 

 the Blues and Carmen are reliable varieties to hold over winter. 



