CAGES AND GAGE-MAKING 



57 



down, it has the merit of not being able to 

 swing open ; for we have known birds play 

 with the internal fastenings of doors and 

 inadvertently open them. A reference to 

 the illustration will show the construction 

 and working better than any verbal de- 

 scription. It will be seen that after making 

 the eyes to the several wires (which is done 

 with a pair of fine round-pointed pliers), 

 and bending them over at right angles, 

 they must be kept in the same straight 

 line while being turned up at the bottom 

 and pinched on to the frame or short cross- 

 ^vire bar on which the entire fabric works, 

 for otherwise the door will not slide at all, 

 or only with difficulty. The two ends of 

 the bottom cross-bar of the door, which arc 

 turned round the upright wires in hook 

 fashion, must not be nipped too closely 

 on to the wires, but sufficient space allowed 

 to admit of their running up and down the 

 wires freely. Success depends entirely on 

 true work. It is hardly necessary to add 

 that the upper strengthening cross-wire of 

 the front must be placed sufficiently high 

 to allow the door to travel up. 



The perches, instead of being about the 

 diameter of a lead-pencil, as is too fre- 

 ([ucntly the case, should be twice 

 that diameter, oval in section, 

 and placed with the broad side uppermost. 

 If the formation of a Canary's foot be con- 

 sidered, the reason 

 for this will be 

 evident. The 

 perches should 

 rest on the cross- 

 bar, and fit firmly 

 between two of 

 the wires, so that 

 they do not rock 

 as the bird perches 

 upon them. They should project I an inch 

 so as to allow of their being drawn out at 

 will for cleaning, etc. 



Another efi:cctive way to fix the front 

 end of perches which rest on the cross-bar 

 is to cut them to project just J of an inch, 

 and notch the centre of the perch with a 

 pocket-knife so as to allow one of the 

 upright wires to fit firmly into the notch. 

 8 



Perches. 



THE RIGHT AND WRONG 

 SHAPE FOR PERCHES. 



SIMPLE METHOD OF FIXING 

 A PEKCH. 



Many prefer this method of fixing the 

 perches, and we know from experience 

 that it holds them securely and they do 

 not work loose, as when fixed between 

 two of the wires. 



At the other end of the perch, which is 

 to rest 

 against the 

 back of the 

 cage, a brad, 

 filed to a fine 

 point, or a 

 piece of 

 wire, should 



be inserted so that it projects about J inch. 

 The perch should be cut full long, and 

 the brad or wire rested against the back 

 of the cage, where it can be wedged 

 down firmly with but a slight pressure 

 of the fingers. By this means the end of 

 the perch will not touch the back of 

 the cage, and will thus afford no harbour 

 for insect life. 



If a stock of these perches be kept they 

 will often be found handy to push in here 

 and there in various positions as occasion 

 may require, or to replace others which 

 are soiled and in need of a wash. Perches 

 of various sizes may also be used in the 

 same cage with beneficial effect to the 

 birds' feet ; the weaken- 

 ing of the hind toe is 

 thus often prevented. 



To enable the birds to 

 get at the seed and 

 water easily, a perch 

 may also be put length- 

 ways. This is the common method, but we 

 prefer a couple of short cross perches about 

 3 inches long, one fixed in front of the seed 

 hopper, and the other before the drinking 

 vessel. These are kept in position by means 

 of wire arms hooked on to the tojj of the 

 bottom cross-bar as here illustrated. 



Some, to whom the construction of a 



breeding-cage is no novelty, will perhaps 



observe that we have made 



S^^' no reference to egg-drawers and 



Drawers. '^^ 



a few et ca'tcras, which some- 

 times are united to it. We prefer to supply 

 them by inside attachments, though we 



SHORT PERCH WITH 

 WIRE ARMS. 



