52 SIAN-FU, THE MAGNIFICENT 



and indispensable essential for a successful trip, 

 and that is a trustworthy and capable guide, in- 

 terpreter, headman, whatever you like to call him, 

 who knows Chinese well and something of the 

 geography of the country. Such a rara avis is 

 hard to find. So recently as 1910 a party of 

 Americans went through a certain district accom- 

 panied by native interpreters. The latter were 

 enjoying themselves, which is more than can be 

 said for their employers ; in fact, they stated that, 

 for a nine days' journey between two important 

 towns they had found it necessary to expend three 

 thousand taels (roughly, £375). The same journey, 

 with such comforts as were available, accompanied 

 by three large carts and five Chinese boys, cost us 

 under two hundred taels. This was entirely due 

 to Dr. Smith's careful management, his thorough 

 knowledge of the country, his appreciation of the 

 native, and his command of the language. Having 

 travelled with him for nearly a year, it is un- 

 necessary that I should draw attention to the 

 article ! 



Our " spectacles without legs " were a never- 

 failing source of amusement and delight ; for the 

 Chinaman, above all others, considers it an honour- 

 able and fitting finish to his appearance to go 

 '' barnacled." No light steel framework for him, 

 but — and this is by far the most important item 

 in the affair — a good solid front of heavy metal, 

 as imposing and substantial as the railings before 

 some large suburban dwelling. It holds a couple 

 of squares or oblongs of, as like as not, cracked 

 and broken glass ; certainly no aid to vision, though 

 this is a minor consideration. It strikes one with 



