64 THE HOME OF THE TAKIN 



weather had been tine, but on the very day we 

 left Ling-tai-miao it broke, and there was an 

 abundance of rain. Our shelter occupied a space 

 about 18 ft. by 14 ft., but scarcely a foot of it was 

 dry. Facing south, and partially sheltered by an 

 overhanging rock, it protected us to a certain 

 extent, for from this quarter came the prevailing 

 wind, but I do not think I have ever experienced 

 a wetter or a more uncomfortable time. We were 

 wet when we rose from our soaking beds ; wet 

 when we sought them after a soaking day. We 

 had about twelve hours' hunting in all, and for the 

 remainder of the time sat on damp cofthi boards 

 in a swelter of mist and rain. As the Chinese 

 sage remarks, " Appreciations come by contrast and 

 experiences are the ladder of truth." Certainly 

 when we left we were in a position to appreciate 

 even the mud walls and squalor of a Chinese inn. 

 At the least it had a roof, and we had to go outside 

 to get wet ! 



The men— there were twelve of them the first 

 night, for our porters were with us— huddled 

 beneath a rock ; the doctor found an overhanging 

 slab, whilst George and I essayed shelter some 

 yards lower down the hill. We curled ourselves 

 into a miscellaneous collection of garments covered 

 by a thin native waterproof sheet — a purely courtesy 

 title — and hoped for sleep. Never were hopes 

 more sadly misplaced. I awoke after what seemed 

 to me half an hour and heard a stifled groan from 

 George. A cold, clammy chill permeated my 

 back, and, hearing a floundering splash. I knew 

 that my worst fears had materialised. In addition 

 to a burn, whicli trickled gaily from the upper cave 



