THE BOOK OF POULTRY. 



and diet ; and it is far better to add the space to 

 earthen or gravelled yards, than to attempt grass 

 under conditions in which it cannot be used with 

 real benefit. 



Shade in open grass runs is very desirable, 

 and of course it is just as well to get something 

 out of it at the same time. Fortunate are those 

 who have an orchard at command. Standards 

 of bush fruit do well in runs for young chickens, 

 and make the best of shade and scratching- 

 places ; but larger birds would, of course, eat the 

 fruit Filbert coppice is good, and often profit- 

 able. But as a rule, where permanent occupation 

 is likely, dwarf fruit trees pay best. 



Fencing has next to be considered, and what 

 is best, or necessary, will depend a great deal upon 

 circumstances. In fencing any yard 

 Fencing. where runs adjoin, it is very desirable 



that the fowls should not be allowed 

 to see each other ; it keeps cocks from fighting, 

 and young cockerels from fretting and excite- 

 ment. With very wide and scattered runs this 

 is not necessary. Height, again, has to be con- 

 sidered ; three feet will confine Cochins or 

 Brahmas, and four feet may suffice for Lang- 

 shans or Dorkings ; but even six may not 

 retain Game or Hamburghs. 



The cheapest general material is plain wire 

 netting. We remember when two-inch mesh 

 netting cost 6d. per yard: it can now be ob- 

 tained at 6s. 4d. for a roll of fifty yards 3 ft. 

 wide.* This will be of light gauge wire. No. ig, 

 which, however, may suffice for many purposes 

 where a fixture ; but if durability is desired, 

 and especially if fencing is to be removed (for 

 periodical crops of hay or grass), stout wire is 

 cheaper in the end, and will run up to about 13s. 

 per roll for No. 16, other prices being inter- 

 mediate. For extensive fencing the cheapest 

 plan is to drive stakes into the ground, 1)2 to 

 2 inches square, the stoutest size every twelve 

 feet apart, and smaller ones half way. To these 

 the netting is fastened by small galvanised 

 staples if a fixture; but if removable, placing 

 them on or lifting them off small, headless 

 French nails, driven in at a downward slant, so 

 that the wire rests in the angle. There must be 

 no rail at the top, only the selvage of the net- 

 ting ; but if desired, a long fence may be 

 strengthened by stretching a barbed wire alL 

 along the top from stronger iron posts at the 

 corners of the run. Something in regard to 

 lateral rigidity and strength of the stakes will 

 depend upon the wdnds to which the locality is 

 subject. Thin boards can be fastened to the 

 same stakes by large tack-nails : three nine-inch 



• These and the other prices quoted on this p.ige were the 

 prices ruling in 1910. 



boards will run up twenty-seven inches, and any 

 required width of netting may go above that. 

 Large runs should be so planned that fifty-j-ard 

 rolls will cut up evenly, especially if intermediate 

 fences are removed during vacation. 



Having driven many wooden stakes for fenc- 

 ing in our time, a few words may be useful in 

 regard to the best method. They should be 

 pointed with long points, and tarred some days 

 before driving. An iron tool should be provided, 

 which we will call a " perforator," somewhat 

 smaller than the end of the stake, and a some- 

 what similar taper at the end : a piece of iron 

 tube, with a solid head and point welded in, is 

 lightest to handle. When boards are used for 

 the lower part, one of the boards is used as a 

 measure, the " perforator " being driven in by a 

 heavy hammer at such a point that the end of 

 the board will come over half the stake when 

 driven. The "perforator," being driven deep 

 enough, is loosened by side taps and withdrawn, 

 when the stake itself is driven into the hole thus 

 made, this time using a mallet. We tried several 

 ways, but found this much the best, and the 

 special tool well worth its cost. Iron stakes 

 with prongs may also be used, and the wire 

 tied to them. Such stakes blacked will cost 

 about 13s. 6d. per dozen six feet high, or about 

 20s. /d. galvanised ; four feet high may run 

 about 6s. and 8s. respectively. 



The same fencing will be cheapest for small 

 runs if home labour be employed in putting up ; 

 but where this is impossible, various patterns of 

 poultry-fence and hurdles sometimes come 

 cheaper in the end, owing to the saving of 

 labour, though much more costh- in themselves. 

 A fence made in liurdles six feet long and si.x 

 feet high, with match-boards near the ground 

 and two-inch wire above, will cost about 3s. 

 per yard, with bolts and nuts ; gates or doors 

 from 3s. each. These fences only need fixing 

 in the ground by their pronged feet, which most 

 people can manage. 



On a farm or other wide range, hedges and 

 other fences will be used as far as possible. A 

 very imperfect hedge may often be made into 

 a thoroughly efficient fence by simply running 

 twelve inches of wire netting along the bottom 

 on one side, which is easily kept in place by 

 stout galvanised wire stakes threaded through 

 it and thrust into the ground. This will only 

 cost three or four shillings for fifty yards. The 

 netting should not be placed on the inside of 

 the hedges all round a field ; the use of one 

 hedge at least being left to each flock for 

 shelters and dusting-places. A periodical ex- 

 amination of such fences for weak places is 

 desirable. 



