WINTERING. 



485 



WINTERING. 



absorbing cushions will be less damp than 

 in a milder climate subject to more or less 

 dampness on account of moist or rainy wea- 

 ther. When absorbing cushions are used, 

 there must be a space of at least one inch 

 over the top of the packing. In addition, 

 there should be ventilating-holes so that the 

 moisture can escape. But these holes should 

 be so situated as to prevent rain or snow 

 from blowing in. 



When sealed covers are used, it takes less 

 packing than when the absorbing plan is 

 employed; but the entrances must be kept 

 clear. If one has not decided which scheme 

 to adopt, we suggest that he try the two side 

 by side. We have tried sheets of glass the 

 exact size of the tops of the hives. These 

 are imbedded in putty, making a tight seal- 

 ing between the glass and the hive. The 

 l)acking material is then placed on top. We 

 have wintered most successfully anywhere 

 from one to a dozen colonies, during succes- 

 sive winters, under these sealed glass covers 

 —not because there was any merit in the 

 ,L;lass, but because we could better observe 

 conditions. We could never see that this 

 moisture that collects in drops at the cor- 

 ners ever did any harm. We would advise 

 the average bee-keeper to use sealed covers 

 until he determines by comparative tests 

 that the absorbing plan and upward venti- 

 lation is better. 



BEST KINDS OF PACKING MATERIAL. 



Wheat or oat chaff, preferably the former, 

 has been recommended as being the best 

 material to use; but since the advent of new 

 methods of separating the chaff from the 

 wheat by means of a suction- fan, it is not 

 now easy to obtain the chaff. We now rec- 

 ommend dry forest-leaves, plenty of them, 

 or planer-shavings. Cut straw does very 

 well. In milder climates, two thicknesses 

 of old carpeting or burlap sacking will do. 

 In colder climates we could use not less 

 than six inches of packing. If the absorbing 

 scheme is used, eight inches will be better. 



SIZE OF ENTRANCES. 



Under the head of Entrances, to which 

 the reader is referred, it is shown that the 

 entrance should be reduced down so as not 

 to be larger than |x8 inches ; and in the case 

 of some of the smaller colonies it would be 

 better to have the openings |x3 or 4 inches. 

 In all cases of outdoor wintering it is im 

 portant to keep these entrances c!e r, and it 

 may, therefore, be necessary to rake out the 

 dead bees now and then which may accumu- 



late ; for should the entrance become clogged 

 the death of the colony must follow. 



WINTER stores— QUANTITY AND QUALITY. 



We have now considered the inclosure, or 

 the hives themselves, for holding a colony 

 for outdoor wintering. Something should be 

 said about the quantity and quality of the 

 stores. It is fair to say that bees outdoors 

 consume nearly twice as much as those in- 

 doors; but it is argued, on the other hand, 

 that while the former consume this larger 

 proportion of food they keep stronger nu- 

 merically and will be in better condition at 

 harvest time than those wintered indoors on 

 half the amount. The opinion of the bee- 

 keeping world is somewhat divided on this 

 whole questioji ; but certain it is that he 

 who winters outdoors should provide twice 

 the amount of stores, or at least see that his 

 colonies, after the main brood-rearing has 

 ceased, have from 20 to 25 lbs. of sealed 

 stores. The beginner will need to weigh up 

 his combs for the first colony or two, to be 

 able to estimate approximately the stores of 

 other colonies. 



As a general thing an eight-frame colony 

 should be crowded on six combs, and a ten 

 on an eight. The division-board must be 

 shoved up close to the frames, and empty 

 space, if any, filled with leaves or other pack- 

 ing material. It is desirable that bees have 

 stores given to them at least a month before 

 they go into their winter sleei), so they may 

 have a winter nest around which will be seal- 

 ed stores within easy reach. As to quality, 

 there is noth ng better than granulated- 

 sugar syrup, although any good first-class 

 table honey, if well ripened, will give as good 

 results. Many bee-keepeis pursue the policy 

 of extracting all the honey and feeding sugar 

 syrup. At the present price of sugar and 

 honey one can afford to do this; and, more- 

 ovei', the \ ery act of feeding will stimulate 

 rearing young bees. This in itself is worth 

 all it costs. 



Although a colony has sufficient stores by 

 the middle or latter part of August it may 

 run considerably short by the fir»t of Novem- 

 ber, especially if a fall flow induces brood- 

 rearing. In any case it is well to go over the 

 colonies just prior to the final preparation 

 for winter, and make sure they do not run 

 short. 



WINTERING HEES IN TENE31ENT HIVES. 



Some prominent bee-keepers, among whom 

 m:iy be named the late E. and N . E. France, 

 of Wisconsin ; W. L. Coggshall, of New 

 York, and H. G. Quirin, of Belle vue, Ohio, 



