6 Annals of the Carnegie Museum. 



pieces. The word watch, from the Anglo-Saxon wacan, to waken, 

 gives an indication of this. 



Though originating in Germany the watch-making craft soon ob- 

 tained a foothold in France, and by 1600 A. D. the manufacture of 

 time-pieces was a flourishing industry in that country, having its most 

 important center in the town of Blols. The skill of the metal-workers 

 of the seventeenth century found full scope in the ornamentation of 

 watch-cases and many beautiful examples were produced, but they 

 are now exceedingly rare in collections. From France some watch- 

 makers emigrated to England, and many skilled workmen were pres- 

 ently engaged there in this calling. 



The earliest watches were fitted with only one hand, which indicated 

 the hour. The subdivisions of the hour were roughly calculated by 

 the position of this hand between the points marking the hours. The 

 figures were raised and many of the earlier watches were provided 

 with a knob above each numeral so that the time could be ascertained 

 in the dark by feeling. Watches with two hands did not appear until 

 somewhat later, and it was not until the middle of the seventeenth 

 century that dials painted in enamel became the fashion for the most 

 costly watches. Shortly afterwards dials of gold and silver with 

 figures in relief came into vogue. 



The development of the characteristic circular shape of the watch 

 of today was gradual. The earliest types were square metal boxes, 

 with the figures placed on a circle of a different metal fastened to the 

 face. No. 19 of this collection is a good example of this type. This 

 form of watch had no protecting lid, but the resultant injury to the 

 dial soon necessitated the invention of a cover or outer case. The 

 first lids were of perforated metal, thus permitting the figures under- 

 neath to be seen. Watches at this time were expensive and could 

 only be owned by the very wealthy. The extravagance of dress in 

 the Elizabethan period had its effect upon watches. Gold and other 

 precious metals, crystal, tortoise-shell, and enamel were lavishly used 

 in the decoration of watch-cases and the most skillful artists were 

 employed to make them. As the watch-glass had not yet come into 

 general use, many of the watches had double or pair-cases. The outer 

 case had no connection with the watch pi-oper, but was a box in which 

 the watch was carried. Many beautiful examples of these outer gold 

 cases ornamented with a chased or repousse design are exhibited in 

 this collection. In this connection it is well to distinguish between 



