The H. J Heinz Collection of Watches. 7 



these two methods of ornament. In repousse work, the metal is 

 punched from the back, producing a design in bold relief, while in 

 chasing the design is cut or engraved from the front and is the more 

 delicate method. As these Elizabethan watches were not carried in 

 the pocket, but were suspended about the neck by a ribbon, fashioned 

 into bracelets, or set in brooches, every opportunity was afforded for 

 their display. Both transparent and opaque enamel were extensively 

 employed and many artists, noted as workers in enamel, as well as 

 lapidaries, were engaged in designing and fabricating watch-cases. 



On account of the high price of watches, the portable, but inaccurate, 

 sun-dial persisted in use, and Nos. i to 6 of this collection are rare 

 examples of that instrument. In Shakespeare's "As You Like It" 

 Jaques's speech, "And then he drew a dial from his poke," contains a 

 reference to such a pocket-dial. 



The Puritan hatred for display reveals its influence even in watch- 

 cases. During the period of the Revolution and Protectorate ex- 

 travagance and beauty of ornament gave way to plainness in decora- 

 tion and watches were carried concealed in the pocket. The fob 

 (Provincial German fit ppe — a little pocket) now made its appearance, 

 and Cromwell's watch, preserved in the British Museum, is one of 

 the earliest to display this adjunct. 



The mechanical skill of the Swiss shortly after this period began to 

 reveal itself in the manufacture of watches, and in modern times 

 Switzerland became the recognized center of the industry, many 

 thousands of persons being employed in it. With the introduction 

 of machinery for making the parts of watches the trade gradually 

 became of great importance in the United States. The American 

 working man of today is able to buy for a few dollars a much more 

 accurate time-piece than could have been possessed by the wealthiest 

 courtier of the Elizabethan Era. It must be confessed, however, 

 that in these instruments artistic design has been very largely sacri- 

 ficed to utility. 



It is rather exceptional to find the name of the maker on early 

 watches, but many of the cities had a distinctive trade-mark, as an 

 "N" for Nuremberg, a pineapple for Augsburg, and a bear for Berne. 

 By such marks, in many cases, it is at least possible to determine the 

 place of manufacture. 



In England the "Hall-mark" is a sure guide to the date. These 

 marks are impressed upon watch-cases, jewelry, and plate, made from 



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