1 66 THE MEASURE OF WARMTH 



soldier's hat which was adopted in South 

 Africa by most of the mounted Irregulars of the 

 British Empire, and b}^ the Boy Scouts who 

 copied the design in felt of rabbit fur. 



A rival type of slouch hat which flopped down 

 all round was used by the ancient Greeks. 

 Looped on one side it was worn b}^ the 

 Cavaliers of the British Civil War, looped on 

 three sides it became the cocked hat of the 

 eighteenth century, and on two sides, of the 

 Napoleonic era, surviving in diplomatic uni- 

 forms and those of naval officers and civic 

 functionaries. Looped on one side again it was 

 worn in the American Civil War, and by British 

 Africanders and Australasians. Softened and 

 not looped it replaced the stiff-brimmed 

 Stetson on the American range. 



Shirt. It was among the Eskimo that I 

 learned the philosophy of the shirt. These 

 very practical folk wear a hooded shirt, close- 

 fitting at the throat, wrists and waist. For 

 summer the material is cotton or serge, for 

 winter the warmest furs ; but in any case it 

 forms a bag of air warmed by the bod3^ The 

 shirt then consists of an outer garment of skin 

 or a textile fabric, and an inner garment of 

 heated air protecting the vital organs. Opened 

 at neck and wrists it is the coolest of garments, 



