84 Journal of Agriculture. Victoria. [10 Feb., 1911. 



If the land is not spring fallowed ^ couple of months before trans* 

 planting, there is a danger of trouble from insect pests, such as cut-worms 

 and caterpillars. Consequently, it is not wise to leave the fallowing too 

 late; also time to rot the vegetable matter turned in is required. In any 

 case it is inadvisable to plough under a heavy growth of greenstuff, as 

 fermentation is likely to ensue and the land after it has rotted is liable 

 to be left too open beneath the surface. 



Transplanting. 



When the plants in the bed have grown leaves from 2 to 3 inches long, 

 they are ready to transplant. If the soil in the bed is stiff, and the 

 roots break in drawing, the bed should be watered a short time before 

 pulling commences. An old dinner fork, to loosen the soil close to the 

 roots of the plant to be drawn, is u.seful. The plant should be taken by 

 the leaves, being careful not to bruise the heart or stem, and drawn gently. 

 As each one is taken from the bed it should be kept in the left hand, with 

 the roots all one way, and the handful then placed in a basket or kerosene- 

 tin bucket, with the leaves to the outside and the roots to the centre. The 

 plants, when pulled, should not be left exposed to wind or sun ; a kerosene 

 tin will hold from 700 to 1,000 plants, according to their size. When 

 sufficient have been drawn, they should be covered with a wet cloth or 

 green grass, and kept in a cool place until they are planted. Plants 

 should always be pulled the same day as they are to be put in the field. 



A cloudy day, with the soil in moist condition, is best for transplanting, 

 and, if such conditions obtain, it is wise to get as many out as possible. 

 If dry weather continues, plant out in the evening. The rows are better 

 north and south, to allow the sun access to both sides during 

 the day. The planter should take the plant in the left hand, and, with 

 the leaves closed together at the top so as to cover the heart, then with 

 the right hand, or a dibble, make a I.ole about 4 inches deep, pulling 

 the hand or dibble towards him, the roots are inserted, care being taken to 

 keep them straight, and the soil pressed close round, so as to keep the 

 leaves still protecting the heart. The first rain will settle the soil and 

 leave the heart clear. If the tap niot is more than 4 inches long, it 

 should be nipped off before planting. When the soil is dry, it will be 

 necessary to water the plant when put out, and the simplest way to accom- 

 plish this is to put a barrel in a cart or sled, and draw the water to the 

 plot, when buckets can be filled along the rows. A boy can then water 

 the plant from these with a small tin fixed on a handle about 3 feet 

 long. A pint of water to each plant is sufficient, and this should be gently 

 administered round the plant, not over it. If the sun is very hot, each 

 plant should be covered with a few straws or fern branches, which can be 

 rem.oved when the plant has become established. 



Machines are used for transplanting in America in nearly 

 all cases and are rapidly coming into use in Victoria, where 

 they are now manufactured, at 'Wangaratta. They are an im- 

 mense saving in time, and labour, and the work is done actu- 

 ally better than by hand. They are manipulated by one man and 

 two boys, and drawn by either one or two horses ; the driver sits on the 

 water cask and the planters on the two seats at the back. The boy on 

 the right hand seat gets the plant ready, while the boy on the left puts 

 the plant, as he takes it from the other, root downwards in the trench 

 made by the plough. An indicator, worked by a cam on the wheel, gives- 

 the signal to put the plant in and, at the same moment, a pint of water is- 

 liberated from the cask. 



