lo Mar., 1911] Tobacco CulUuc. 183 



that may be sticking together. The stick is then carried to^ the far end 

 of the scaffold and left hanging between the poles ; the succeeding sticks 

 are treated in the same way and closed up well together when first placed 

 on the poles. If this is not done, the outside leaves are liable to get too 

 much sun and cure too fast, becoming black and brittle ; again, the plants 

 when bunched up close go through a species of green fermentation which 

 improves the colour and quality of the cured tobacco. If the tobacco has 

 not been well wilted before hanging, and consequently cannot be properly 

 bunched up on the scaffold, it is necessary to close up the sticks the day 

 after it is hung. 



TobaccO' SO' treated will get a good start in the cure and will gain at 

 least three weeks on that taken straight to the shed. Care must be taken 

 not to let the tobacco get wet. If rain is expected the tobacco should 

 either be protected with a tarpaulin or taken to the shed. From six to 

 nine days is long enough to leave tobacco on the scaffold at any time. At 

 the end of this period it will be found to have lost at least 40 per cent, 

 of its weight, thus saving a considerable amount of carting, either to the 

 shed or scaffold. Treading on the leaves should be avoided, as bruises 

 always show in the cured leaf and spoil its appearance. If carted on a 

 lorry or sledge it should be so packed that the butts of the plants do not 

 injure the lea\es by punctures or bruises. When placed on the tier poles in 

 the shed there should be a distance of about 7 or 8 inches between the 

 sticks full of tobacco. If placed closer than this there is danger of 

 mould, and an inferior cure. 



It must not be forgotten that scaffolding tobacco is only of advantage 

 in treating heavy plug and sun-cured tobaccoes. Very light tobaccoes and 

 rigar leaf should not be scaffolded, but taken at once to the shed after 

 wilting, there to be cured as described when dealing with curing of the 

 various clas.ses of leaf. 



Harvesting Cigar Tobacco. 



As previously state<l. it is a good system to harvest cigar varieties 

 .slightly on the under-ripe side in Victoria, in order to obtain a finer tex- 

 tured leaf; that is, a thinner leaf with smaller vein, and a lighter flavour. 

 The chief fault with a cigar leaf is its coarseness, anil strength in smok- 

 ing ; lighter soils for ])roduction and closer plaining in the nav.s will liave 

 the desired eflVit in tliese respects. 



It is particularlv necessarv that cigar leaf should be harxested wit!) 

 special care. The iilants should l)e cut after the dew is off and before 

 the greatest heat of the day, if possible. The plant should then be left 

 only long enough to soften in the sun ami le at once taken to the shed 

 when fit to handle. 



Tlie mode ()| ( utiiiij.' 'iitTers from tliai employed ii' liar\-esting pipe 

 ti;liarco. Tile ri'ie plaui i- benl (i\-er with one hand and cut off cl<ise to 

 the ground with a eho])i)er. The stalk is ikh --jilii as in the case of heavy 

 plug tobacco, ('igar leaf, being of finer texture than plug, rt^uires gentler 

 treatment. The more torn or brui.sed it is the less wrapjJer leaf there will 

 b' for market ; therefore, it should be carefullv handled. Much more de- 

 p<iuls on the fermentation oi' cigar leaf; lo cut immediatelv after heavy 

 rain or on a xcrv cohl dav will 1h> found to seriously affect the fern:t>nta- 

 t'on of the leaf later on. 'I'his is due to ^ihe fact that leaf cut under un- 

 favourable conditions is more or less d-'''''" '' en/ymes, or fi-rments. which 

 are de\-eloped to a large extent ''"^ •nul wH, 



