;26 Journal of Agriciillitre, Victoria. [lo Aug., 1911. 



Under tiornial conditions, citrus trues are easily propagat'.jd. Any 

 one taking up this work in a warm irrigated district would find it re- 

 munerative — very few of the citrus trees planted out in this State are 

 raised here. Like the olive, citrus trees require a percentage of lime in 

 the soil to obtain the best results. Soil conditions were dealt with by 

 Mr. E. E. PescO'tt, Principal, Burnley Horticultural School, in the June 

 issue of the Journal. 



There is always a risk of losing citrus trees when transplanting from 

 a hot to a cooler climate. At one time, imported trees were generally 

 acclimatized by nurserymen before being sold to the growers for per- 

 manent planting. This is still practised, but not to the same extent. 

 There is a difference in price between acclimatized and unacclimatized 

 trees. Tf growers choose the latter they run the risk of failure. After 

 all, this risk is not very great with healthy trees, if given careful treatment. 



The trees should be obtained in August or September, and immediately 

 upon receiving them they should be removed from, the package or case 

 in which they are packed. The roots should be carefully and well rinsed 

 in water, so as to remove any puddled clay or sawdust adhering to them. 

 Then cut away any bruised roots or portion of roots so effected. Harden 

 back their growth about one-half, making a clean and unbruised cut at 

 a bud. Use a sharp knife. Then heel in at once in a warm sheltered 

 position, away from the influence of frosts, until planted out permanently. 

 Press the soil firmly about the roots, and water. Under no conditions 

 allow them to suffer from the want of moisture before the autumn. 



If the soil has not already been prepared it should be worked deeply. 

 It should, if possible, be of a loose sandy or loamy nature, and be well 

 drained. Select a warm sheltered site. 



When planting, open out a trench to the required depth, and plant 

 about 12 in. apart, so that, if necessary, they can be lifted with a small 

 ball of soil for planting out the following seasons. Spread the roots 

 when planting, care being taken to see that the trees are placed no deeper 

 in the soil than when thev were lifted from the nursery. The rows 

 should be far enough apart to prevent injury to the young growths when 

 ■cultivating amongst them. 



One of the chief factor.s. in acclimatization is to keep the soil well 

 stirred or mulched, and, as nearly as possible, of even moisture, i.e., a 

 moisture not detrimental to the health of the trees. Many propagators 

 plant the trees just as they receive them from the nursery, not hardening 

 back the growth. The writer has tested both methods, and favours 

 cutting back. 



When irrigating, care should be taken that one portion of the trees 

 does not receive an excess over the others. If unmulched, the surface 

 of the soil should be well stirred to prevent crusting. This will also 

 .help to conserve the moisture. During hot weather, water in early morn- 

 ing or evening. If irrigating during the heat of the day, there is a 

 risk of scalding the bark, i.e, if the water is allowed to splash upon 

 the stems. 



It is a common occurrence for citrus trees to shed their foliage after 

 being planted out and to remain dormant until the autumn, when they 

 break away after the first good rains and make fair growth before the 

 cold weather sets in. Again, others remain in this condition ; they 

 respond to no treatment, and finally die out, too severe a check through 

 removal being probably the cause. Very often, they will start to die 

 back from the tips, continuing down close to the bud mark where a few 

 buds have pushed forth shoots. When this occurs, the top should be cut 



