6yo Journal of Agricultiir': , Victoria. [\o Oct.. 191 r. 



will need to be maintained. Weeds are great moisture robbers, and they 

 should be kept rigorously out of the vegetable garden ai this time of the 

 year. 



Late plantings of tomatoes may now l)e carried ont ; all early planted 

 plants should be fed, staked, and the laterals pinched back. A little 

 bonedust or superphosphate may be given, but these are not equal to 

 animal manures, if the latter are available. Chemical manures should 

 only be given in a limited quantity. Six or seven cwt. per acre would 

 be a heavy dressing, and this works out at nearly three ounces per square 

 yard. Vegetable growers may easily try this for themselves, and it will 

 soon be .seen that three ounces .scattered over a square yard of surface 

 will appear to be a. verv light dressing. 



French beans, carrot, parsnip, celery, radish, peis. and turnip seeds 

 may now be .sown. Seeds of cucumber, melon, and pumpkin family may 

 now be sown in the open ground. All seedlings mav be transplanted 

 on favourable days, and it will be well to sprinkli:- the tops when i)lanting 

 out, as well as to water the roots. 



Asparagus beds may be top-dressed with manure, and kept well weeded. 

 Such weak growths of asparagus as are not gathered for cooking pur- 

 po.ses, although these are invaluable for flavouring and for soups, should 

 be kept cut out of the beds. 



Celery trenches will need attention at this season . and. to insure good 

 and quick growth, frequent waterings will be necessary. 



Flower Garden. 



Flower gardens are troubled with many pests at this season of the 

 year. Rose aphis is one of the most prevalent. Frequent applications 

 of a strong tolDacco s])ray will keep this pest in check. It has been 

 argued that, because this pest disappears on the occurrence of the first hot 

 wind, it is not necessary to worry much about it. This is a very fal- 

 la^cious argument, as the hot winds do not generally come until the aphides 

 have done a considerable amount of damage ; and, further, when the 

 aphides do disappear, many of them simplv go underground to hibernate 

 until another favourable season. 



Rose mildew will also require combating. The bushes should be 

 sprinkled or dusted with sulphur while the foliage is still wet with the 

 morning dew. Dusting sulphur on the grouno under the bush is also 

 ■effective, the sulphur fumes acting as a check on the fungus. 



Leaf rolling and leaf eating insects will need to be suppressed by spray- 

 ing with arsenate of lead or Paris green. 



The surface must be kept well hoed, .so as to keep in as much soil 

 moisture as possible. Dry soils will need frequent waterings, with a hoeing 

 as soon as convenient after each. 



Preparation will now be made for the planting of dahlias and chrysan- 

 themums. The beds should be well dug over two or three times, well 

 mixing the manure with the soil at each digging. The soil must not be 

 too rich, and a well drained condition is an essential. 



Bulbs that have finished flow^ering, and that have lost their foliage 

 should be lifted and stored. The foliage must not be cut off, as this 

 means loss of sap and energy. 



Tender and half-hardy and other annuals may be planted out now. 

 for summer and autumn flowers. These include asters, zinnias, salvias, 

 balsams, amaranthus, celosias. &c. Lrilielia. bedding Uegonia. iresines. 

 alternantheras, &c., may now be planted out. 



