10 Jan., 1918.] Orchard and Garden Notes. 61 



growth whatever. It should be cut from the scion with a shallow cut, 

 and if any wood be left in the cutting it should be taken out of the bud. 

 A smooth, clean spot should be selected on the bark of the stock, and a 

 T-shaped cut made, the vertical cut being longer than the horizontal 

 one. The bark at the point where the cuts meet should be raised, and 

 the bud inserted between the bark and the wood of the stock. The bud 

 should be gently pressed down into position, and then bound with soft 

 twine, string, or raffia. If the bud be too long for the cut, the top may 

 be cut off level by means of a horizontal cut. With practice, it will soon 

 become possible to take the buds so that they will need neither cutting 

 nor trimming. 



After two or three weeks the buds should be examined to see if they 

 have " taken," that is, if the bud has united thoroughly to the stock. 

 When this occurs, the tie may be cut. If a growth be desired at once, 

 all wood above the bud may be cut off some short distance above the 

 bud, so as to prevent any bark splitting, and consequent loss of the bud, 

 and so as to throw the bud out at a fair angle. Ultimately this should 

 be properly trimiued. 



If desired, the bud may be left dormant throughout the autumn and 

 winter till spring. In this case, the branch should not be cut oif, but 

 left on till the usual winter pruning. 



Summer Pruning. 



The profuse spring rains have caused a vigorous groAvth in the 

 fruit trees. In order to more economically utilize this abundant 

 growth, it should be now summer pruned, particularly on the apple 

 and pear trees. Care should be observed that as much of the 

 leafage as possible is retained on the tree. Unduly long laterals of 

 fruiting trees may be shortened back, always cutting to a leaf. 

 Unnecessary terminal leader growths, of which there are sometimes three 

 or four, all strong growing, may be reduced to one, retaining this one 

 as a leader. In no case should this growth be cut or interfered with in 

 any way. 



The results of these cuts will be to divert the sap which Avas flowing 

 into growths that would subsequently be pruned, into more profitable 

 channels, so that weak buds and growths may be strengthened, and 

 induced into fruit bearing. 



Vegetable Garden. 



The work in this section is much the same as in the flower garden. 

 Good mulching and regular soil stirring will be the work for the month. 

 As soon as any bed is cleared of vegetables, it should be manured and 

 well dug over in preparation for the next crop. Deei? digging is always 

 desirable in vegetable growing. If any pest, such as aphis, or cater- 

 pillars, or tomato weevil, have been present, it would be advisable to 

 burn all the crop refuse, or to destroy any insects that remain, and to 

 give the plot a dressing of gypsum, or of Clift's manurial insecticide. 



Keep the tomatoes well waterediand manured, pinching out surplus 

 and strong grown laterals. In early districts the onion crop will be 

 ripening. In late districts, or with late crops, the ripening may be 



