8 June, 1908.] Hinis on Planting Fruit Trees. 3^5 



The foregoing remarks, of course, do not apply in all cases. There 

 are districts where a layer of gravel is found under the surface, cemented 

 together like stone. Where such is the case, it becomes necessary to bring 

 it to the surface where it can be managed or removed away altogether. Again, 

 some of the mellow chocolate soils are naturally well drained, and almost 

 as loose two feet below as on the surface. Where these exist, the soil 

 may be turned about anyhow ; but, generally speaking, and under most 

 circumstances, I believe the above system, or something approaching it, 

 will be found satisfactory. 



Draining. — Draining is of the utmost importance to insure success in 

 plantations of fruit trees and vines, especially those of fruit trees. It 

 can be done by laying drain pipes at equal distances through the 

 soil. This is the most approved method, and where practicable and well 

 performed, is productive of great results. Surface draining can also be 

 carried out. The latter is done by throwing the ground up into beds from 

 10 to 15 feet wide for one row of trees, and forming narrow deep walks 

 or drains between every bed, to carry off the surface water and to drain 

 the beds. If possible, the bottom of these drains or walks should be 

 as deep as the trenching of the beds, in order to carry off the whole of 

 the surplus water out of the trenched ground. 



In moderately dry soils, beds may be formed wide enough to hold 

 a double row of trees. This mode of draining can be carried out with 

 very satisfactory results ; a greater surface is thus exposed to the beneficial 

 influences of the atmosphere. Under this mode, surface draining is 

 especially adapted for ground w-here there would be no outlet for the 

 water from underground drains. Trenching in such ground should not 

 be deep; the soil from the walks or drains would materially increase the 

 depth of soil on the beds. There is, perhaps, a little more difficulty in 

 keeping the ground as neat as' when it is formed in larger squares, with 

 underground drains and ordinary garden walks, owing to the deep sides 

 to the beds. 



Planting. — When selecting fruit trees, be sure and procure them with 

 short stems, as long stemmed trees are greatly subjected to heavy winds 

 which injure the roots ; the sun is also apt to burn the stems. Tall 

 stemmed trees are a mistake as their crops are difficult to gather and their 

 management in general is troublesome. In preparing the trees for planting, 

 cut off all roots to an equal distance from the stem, making the cut under, 

 from the centre to the outside. I would advise early planting of fruit trees, 

 provided the soil is in a mellow condition. In the case of stubborn cla\ey 

 soils where it is cloggy, it would be best to leave planting until early 

 spring. In the meantime the holes could be dug and exposed to the 

 atmosphere, which would greatly improve the soil. When the ground is 

 in a fit condition for planting, and the places for the trees are marked 

 out, make holes about 2 feet square; then dig up the bottom and fill the 

 holes up to the required depth the trees need, with soil from off the surface 

 only. Xever plant a tree deeper in the ground than what it has been 

 in the nursery beds. Much harm has been done through too deep planting. 

 Nothing can be more injurious, either in the present or future success of 

 an orchard, than to bury the roots away from the influence of the atmos- 

 phere. When the tree is placed in the hole prepared, be careful to 

 spread out all its roots as equally around the hole as possible, so that the 

 tree when growing can derive the benefit of the soil all around it. Then 

 fill in the hole to near the top with nice mellow soil taken from the 

 surface and shake the tree gently so that the soil can get well axnongst 



