TO Xov., 1908.] Viticulture in Europe. 685 



about 17 pesetas each (about 13s.). These curious vessels are mentioned 

 as an example of the many strange features of this old fashioned and 

 characteristic region. 



Large areas of vines are occasionally seen ; they are always short- 

 pruned and trained gooseberry-fashion. These vineyards differ from those 

 of Andalucia in being cultivated with the plough instead of by hand, mules 

 being the usual traction animals. The chief wine varieties are Lairen or 

 Airen, and Tinto Fino Cencibel, but several others are also grown, such a» 

 Albillo, Jaen, Moscatel, &c. As has alxeady been explained phylloxera has 

 not yet rendered necessary the reconstitution of this region. The poor land, 

 of which much is to be seen, affords grazing for sheep and goats. Pictur- 

 esque towns and villages are scattered here and there throughout the coun- 

 try which gradually becomes more hilly, but as the night closes in little 

 is to be seen of picturesque Aranjuez, with its celebrated Royal palace. 

 After a few hours Madrid is reached. 



Madrid. 



I was warmly received by the British Ambassador, Sir Maurice de 

 Bunsen, to whom I presented my credentials the following morning. Sir 

 Maurice had heard a great deal of Australian viticulture at the Pajis 

 Exhibition of 1889, and consequently was much interested in my mission. 

 His reminiscences of this time interested me greatly, and brief reference 

 to them are not out of place here. He remembered having assisted at the 

 official dinner arranged by my father, the late Hubert de Castella, who 

 was one of the Victorian Commissioners. At this dinner Victorian wines 

 were served side by side with the choicest vintages of France. Sir Maurice 

 was much struck by the favourable impression created, and described how 

 M. de Blowitz, the well-known correspondent of the Times, stated, in 

 the coui'se of a short speech, that, though he was astonished at the audacity 

 of the experiment he had just participated in, he was compelled to admit 

 that it had resulted in success. These and similar occasions on which 

 the high quality of Victorian wines has received recognition are apt to be 

 lost sight of by the majoritv of consumers whose adverse criticism of our 

 wines is unfortunately too often based on ignorance or prejudice. 



Sir Maurice very kindly sent his commercial attache, Mr. S. P. 

 Cockerell, to introduce me to the Director of Agriculture, the Visconde de 

 Eza. My visit to the Director in the magnificent offices of the " Fomento " 

 Avas a revelation to me. From what I had already seen in Andalucia and 

 La Mancha, I had come to the conclusion that in the work of reconstitution, 

 Spanish growers were largely left to their own resources. Such was, per- 

 haps, the case in the early days of the struggle with phylloxera, and it 

 must be remembered that the viticultural centres of Andalucia have been 

 reconstituted for a good manv vears. A brief chat with the Director, from 

 whom I met with a charming reception, soon changed my views as to the 

 way in which the State is aiding the growers. A great change is noticeable 

 in the attitude of the State towards the growers, and in the provinces into 

 which the pest has more recently found its way much good work is being 

 done, and practical aid is being given with the result that in the northern 

 and eastern provinces, reconstitution is now being actively proceeded with 

 on sound and up-to-date lines. 



After having inquired into wine makino; in Terez and Malaga, and the 

 dessert raisin industry at the latter place, as well as the shipments of fresh 

 grapes from Almeria, I thought there remained little more for me to see 



