July V, 1863. 



JOURNAL OF HOKTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



Before concluding, I may add that I by no means disap- 

 prove of the cultm-e of flowers in a public cemetery, although 

 I cannot see in which way the undue preference given to 

 bedding plants can be recommended on any plea excepting 

 that of gaiety at one particular time, and that not of long 

 endurance. Assuming, as is very often the case, that a cii'- 

 cumferential border exists, shutting the interior from out- 

 ward objects, evergreen shrubs oiight to predominate on 

 this border, so as to give it a clothed appearance in winter; 

 whUe in the front of this border may be cultivated a great 

 diversity of flowers. I wiU not say that it may be converted 

 into a fashionable ribbon-border, but many of the plants so 

 used may have a place here, planted amongst others of their 

 heio'ht and character. This may be a feature in the exterior 

 border, but the clumps or beds that diversify the centre 

 ouo-ht to be more sober in their exhibition of floral gaiety, 

 while evergi-eens must predominate stUl more extensively. 

 Nevertheless, such plants as Pinks, Iberis, Ai-abis, &c., 

 might be grown to advantage ; and nothing looks better 

 than the double white Rocket, for with so much turf and 

 evergreen white or light-coloured flowers wUl teU to most 

 advantage, and there are several of the hue — as, for instance, 

 some Campanulas, white Phloxes, and I cannot see any ob- 

 jection to patches of Cerastiiun ornamenting the front ; but 

 beyond this most if not all the other bedding-out plants 

 must keep outside. 



It is needless for me to foUow this subject further ; but I 

 hope others wiH favour us with their opinion, as it is a topic 

 deserving the iJbtice of those best qualified to take of it a 

 just view, and a series of letters in The Jouenal of Hor- 

 ticulture would be of service. J. Roeson. 



CULTTJEE OF EOSES IN POTS. 



This is a topic of general interest, although the following 

 is a reply to " R. S., Bristol," who asks for information how 

 to grow potted Roses in quantities. 



Although you do not say so, we infer that your object is 

 to get up a stock of Roses in pots, for blooming under glass 

 in spring and early summer, and there is scarcely any other 

 object in the whole round of gardening that is so likely to 

 prove a source of pleasure to those who are fond of that 

 which is sweet and beautiful. Supposing, then, that you 

 desire to have Roses in bloom next sjiring, there are two 

 ways by which your end can be attained. You Ciin either 

 procui'e plants that are already established in pots and in a 

 fit condition to be gently forced into bloom, or you can get 

 plants from the nursery -rows in autumn and pot them yoiu'- 

 self. And as it is your object to grow extensively, the latter 

 is the course that is to be recommended, as being not only 

 the cheapest way of obtaining a large stock, but will, by 

 following the directions which shall here be given, jjrove 

 perfectly successful. 



You should go to some good Rose-nursery early in autumn, 

 and get the first pick of the number you requii'e fi-om the 

 nursery-rows. Choose those that have broken from three or 

 four buds, that have made half a dozen strong healthj' 

 shoots and have stocks only a few inches high, or, perhaps, 

 better stOl, that are grown on their own roots. Let youi- 

 selection be marked, and having secured them, leave them 

 where they grow tiU the middle of October, about which 

 time they have generally pretty well matured their growth 

 and are shedding their bottom leaves. This is the proper 

 time to Uft and pot them with the view of getting them to 

 form fresh roots before winter, and by gentle forcing to 

 secm'e a crop of bloom the following spring. 



The plants should be lifted with care, preserving every 

 twiggy root, and shortening with the knife those that are 

 strong and pithy. Pot them firmly in pots ranging in size 

 li'om 6 to 8 inches. The soil most suitable for them is a 

 rather heavy loam, with about a third of well-rotted hotbed 

 manui'e or cowdung, with a slight addition of road grit or 

 coarse sand. The pots should be well drained, and in potting 

 the roots should be nicely distributed among the soil. When 

 potted and watered plunge them at once in a pit or frame 

 where there is a gentle bottom heat. Keep them rather 

 close for ten days, and when the days are di-y syringe them 

 morning and afternoon, and keep them shaded fi-om the 

 sun. After the first fortnight the lights may be taken off 



them for a few hours in the morning and evening, always 

 putting the lights on for the night ; but do not shut them 

 down closely. 



The gentle bottom heat and the close moist atmosphere 

 will maintain the action of the roots and leaves, and by the 

 end of November they will have made fi-esh roots to a con- 

 siderable extent, and the buds on the last season's growths 

 wiU be as firm and prominent as those which have not been 

 disturbed at ail. The leaves wUl be aU shed, except a tuft 

 at the top of each shoot. If by this time the bottom heat 

 has not entirely gone, they should be removed to some cool 

 place. Their removal fi-om such quarters wiU in most cases 

 be a matter of necessity, as few are the places where there 

 is such accommodation to devote to wintering plants that 

 can be otherwise protected. They can be plunged in some 

 sheltered place where heavy rains and severe frosts can be 

 guarded against. Sawdust or cinder ashes form excellent 

 material for plunging in, as either of these is not so subject 

 to the destructive inroads of worms, and forms a better pro- 

 tection to the roots than common garden soil. 



The time to prune Roses thus treated must be regulated 

 and determined by the time that they are requii-ed to bloom 

 in spring. In our own practice we have several times had 

 Roses in bloom, under similar cu-cumstances, early in March; 

 and when required so early they should be pruned by the 

 middle of December. It gives the plants a much better 

 chance the first year ; and, looking at them as permanent 

 objects, it is far the best way to keep them at rest till the 

 middle of February. Let it, however, be supposed that you 

 would desire a few of them to flower in March, that few must 

 be pruned at the time named above. Cut them back to two 

 or three eyes, according to the strength of the shoots, 

 always cutting more closely in the case of the weaker 

 growths. 



By the first week of January they should be introduced 

 into a temperatiu-e of 45° to 50" at night, and if they can be 

 afforded a bottom heat of 60° it wiU be much to then- advan- 

 tage in causing them to break regularly and strongly. They 

 should be kept near the glass, and be freely syringed with 

 tepid water at least twice a-day — morning and afternoon. 



As soon as the shoots attain about an inch in length 

 increase the temioeratui'e by 5°, and on every favom-able 

 opportunity admit a good supply of fresh an-. Keep them 

 away from 'the heating apparatus, and shut up early in the 

 afternoon with a moist atmosphere. There are few things 

 more adverse to Roses than a di-y parching atmosphere. 

 Increase the temperatm-e gradually to 60° by the time they 

 show their bloom-buds. 



Green fly is a gi'eat pest to forced Roses, and must never 

 be allowed to gain a footing ; but their most treacherous 

 and destructive enemy is the small black maggot, with 

 which all Eose-growers are familiar. It folds itself up in the 

 leaves, from which retreat it salUes and eats into the centre 

 of the Rose-bud when little larger than a pea. There is 

 only one way, that I am awai-e of, that you can cope with 

 this enemy, and that is to look over the plants every day ; 

 and wherever you see the leaves folded up or sticking two 

 together, there you wiU find a maggot which you will destroy 

 ivith a hearty good wUl, and put an end to his gluttonous 

 repast. When the buds show themselves above the foliage, 

 be sure to give a free admission of an- on all occasions when 

 weather will permit, at the same time avoiding currents of 

 cold air. If this is not attended to, the flowers and their 

 stems will be weak and short-Uved. 



Immediately the flowers begin to show theii' colour the 

 plants must be removed to a house where the temperatm-e 

 ranges about 55°, giving the plants plenty of room, light, and 

 ail-. Here they will not only open then' flowers with a, 

 higher colour and a gi-eater perfume, but the stems and 

 leaves will acquire a degree of stifl'ness and strength so 

 desirable in Roses, and which cannot bo attained in a higher 

 temperature and a moister atmosphere. When in ftiU bloom 

 a temperature of 50° is sirffieiently high. Under such cir- 

 cumstances they wiU. remain in bloom a long time, more 

 particularly if shaded from the sun, and carefiiUy attended 

 to with water at the root — that is, if the soil is preserved in 

 that genial condition so commonly described by gardeners as 

 " neither wet nor dry." Under such circirmstances as these 

 you can have the enjoyment of a display of this queen of 

 flowers next March ; but as already stated, it is the better 



