Hrfeptemiier 22, 186S. ] JOURWAIi OF HOKTICULTTTEE Ai^TD COTTAGE GAKDENEK. 



341 



House for "Winteeing Bohdee Plants {J. F. -S.}-~Your spau-roofed 

 house 30 feet long: would answer admirably for presei-ving border and 

 bedding plants. You can make it economicaUy by putting up a plain and 

 simple structure, employing but little woodwork, and havuig large panes 

 of glass. Provision mu&t be made to admit abundance of fresh air. Alter 

 bedding plants aie cleared out you could either have ornamental Cucur- 

 bitacea; or useful by throwing Cucumbers or Melons, or if you could make 

 a border convenient! v» jou might have a crop ot Grapes in t-eptember. 

 Excellent Melons could be grown in such a house by merely making a 

 bed and training the plants to wires fixed about 1 foot from the glass. 

 Success would be more certain with a pipe under the bed. One four-inch 

 pipe would not be sufficient for top heat to keep out an ordinary winter 

 frost unless the house were very narrow indeed. Two four-inch pipes 

 acrosir one end and along the front would be necessary for a house 10 leet 

 wide, and two four-inch pipes all round if it exceeded 15 feet in width. 

 We should prefer pipes for bottom heat mstetid of a flue, and as you think 

 of having a boiler we do not see the necessity for a Hue at all, except it were 

 to economise heat, when you might have a flue in addition to the pipes for 

 top heat, and so make use of the heat that uecessurily tsciipes from boilers, 

 and which would, were there no flue, pass into the chimney and be lost. 

 It is not unusual to carry pipes under a path; but this is best done after 

 the pipes have risen from the boiler some distance, when by an elbow they 

 may ce carried under any path not lower than the opening in the boiler 

 for the return-pipe. Pipes are commonly brought under paths by setting 

 the boiler so that the flow-pipe will rise a little, but still be lower than the 

 pathway. The flow-pipe should rise from the boiler about 1 foot in a 

 30-feet house to the extremity, when it may fall in the return to suit the 

 opening in the boiler for the return. You may carry the flow-pipe any 

 height above the boder, but it will work as well with a rise of 1 foot in 

 10 yards as with a rise of 12 yards in that distance. It is not usual nor 

 necetisary to carry the pipes up and down and up again, though they may 

 be done in that way so long as this up-and-down work is not permitted to 

 interfere with the circulation. It will not do to take the flow-pipe up and 

 tlien down below the top of the boiler, and up again : the water will not 

 circulate in that way ; but, after it^nce falls btlow the top of the boiler, 

 the pipes must be carried from that point to the bottom of the boiler. "We 

 should recommend you to have a saddle boiler, and if you send a plan of 

 your hou.se to the dealers m hot-water apparatus who advertise in our 

 columns, they will send you a small boiler capable of heating your house 

 well at a small sum. The smallest saddle boiler made will be sufficient 

 to heat the 80 leet of piping you will need for top heat, and for the 30 feet 

 of pipe for bottom heat. 



PciACH-HousE (0. M.), — For a Peach-house we should continue the 

 vinery range at b, making it any length, bat the same width and elevation 

 as the vinery. If your boiler is powerful enough a branch might be con- 

 nected with the flow-pipe healing the vinery to heat the Peach-house, con- 

 necting the return with that of ibe vinery. For a Peach-house the trees 

 do best planted out. The border can be both inside and outside, or either 

 separately. We do not think there is much difference between growing 

 Peaches in pots or planted out in a border; but the amount of trouble 

 required in watering trees in pots is double that for those planted out. If 

 you desire variety, have an orchard-hou:?e ; if but a supply, we should 

 advise you to have a Peach-house. A span is best for an orchard-hou&e, 

 and it would be 'most sheltered, we should say, at b. It might be at a; 

 but that, of course, would receive the lull violence of a south-west gale. 

 We are much obhged for your notes on Centaurea caudidisaima. 



Sowing Seeds fbosi India and China [M. H,). — We presume you had 

 the seeds without names. Had you the names with them it would have 

 better enabled us to answer youi queries had you sent them, for there are so 

 many plants from those countries that require a diversity of treatment to 

 meet their wants. Some mLiy be annuals, others trees or shrubs; one 

 may need peat soil, another ioanj, whilst a third would do better in a mix- 

 ture of both. Had we such a packet of seeds we should make a kind of 

 universal compost composed of one-fourth fibry peat, a like quantity of 

 leaf mould, :'nd one-half mellow loam from rotted turves, with a liberal 

 sprinkling of white sand. This, well incorporated and sifted, will grow 

 almost any description of plant. Ton will well drain the pots in which the 

 seed is to be sown, and fill them with the riddled compost to within an 

 inch of the pot-top or rim fur seeds the size of a pea, lessening or increasing 

 the depth according to the size ol the seeds; pUice these so that they 

 may be double their diameter Irom seed to seed, and cover them with soil 

 to the same depth that the st-eds are respectively in diameter. The seeds 

 larger than peas had best be sown in single pots — that is. one seed in each. 

 You will do this sowing business in March of nest yeai ; and all being 

 flown, place those from India in a little bottom heat, if you have it, in your 

 stove, and those from China in bottom heat in the greenhouse, or place 

 them all in a hotbed with the bottom heat at Td** or 80°, but not exceeding 

 85«. When they are fairly up and begin showing their rough leaves 

 remove the Chinese to the greenbouse and the Indians to the stove, placing 

 them in the warmest part of each respectively for a few days, gradually 

 hardening them. Water sutiiciently to keep the soil moist, and when they 

 have made a pair of rough leaves pot them singly if strong growers, or put 

 three, five, or more round a small pot if moderate growers, and repot them 

 again so soon as the roots reach the sides of the pot. Continue to do this 

 until the plants be'^ome established, when we should advise you to call in 

 some friend who has a good knowledge of plants, who in all probability 

 would be able to assist in naming them for you ; and if you look in our 

 Journal you will be sure to lind information how to proceed with them if 

 they be plants worth cultivating. We are very cautious, however, about 

 .sowing seeds that we know nothing about, for it is very mortifying to fill 

 our houses with what otten is rubbish. 



Grapes Shanking (ff. J. jET.).— We have little doubt that the Vine-rootj, 

 robbed of nourishment in "the very shallow surface soil by the roots of 

 the shrubs, iS:c., grown in the border," have been driven down for a supply 

 of food into " the stiff' heavy marl which is the subsoil." If you cannot cle.u- 

 away the shrubs, fiic, and lift the roots of the Vines to near the surface, 

 your next best plan v/iil be to enrich the surface foil, and keep it mulched 

 and well watered during dry weather in summer. The exclusion ct the 

 son's rays from the soil in which are the Vine roots is very piL-judiciiil, 

 because during the growing season they must be too cold to keep pace with 

 the demands for growth in the brunches. 



Pine-Apple Cultube . [John Forrester). — Giendinning's " Practical 

 Hints on the Culture of the Pme Apple, ' will suit you. It was published 

 by Messrs. Longman & Co. 



Flue IIeatijtg a Greenhouse IClericiis). — We think the way in which 

 you propose to heat your greenhouse would do. It would be an improve- 

 ment to bring the fiae from the furnace at a under the path, so that the 

 door would open to the front of the house, and then along the front, then 

 across the other end to b, where it would make its exit in the chimney. 

 For so narrow a house it does nit matter much where the Hue is situated, 

 only the heating surface as a Tule should be placed where the roof is lowest. 

 The furnace need not be larger than 1 toot 6 inches long, 10 inclies wide, 

 and ".he same in dt-pih. 'Ihe flue should not be more than half the furnace 

 diuifusions. Six-inch pot-pipes with the joints ntortured will suit you. 

 The tii'e should rise irom the lurnace the height of the furnace into the flue. 

 It may then run nearly level to the chimney. 



Flowers to Bloom Simultaneously {Mrs. C, Sidmottth).— The four 

 large beds now oi:cupied with Scarlet Geraniums and to be planted with 

 Tuiban Kanunculus will be charming next May; but those filled with 

 Crocuses and TuUps alter purpl.e Verbenas and yellow Calceolarias would 

 no doubt look well individually, but we should only deceive yt.u it we were 

 to say they would flower simultaneously with the Konunculuses. We 

 should advise you to plant the scarlet Turoan Ranunculus early in Novem- 

 ber, and edge tliem with striped Crocuses, as La Jlajesteuse, Pride of 

 Albion, and air Walter Scott. In the yellow beds we would plant Yellow 

 Kose double Tulips, and edge them with yellow Crocuses. The purple beds 

 may be planted with Aubrietia purpurea grandifiora, a hardy perennial, 

 edged with purple crocuses. The Crocuses would make the beda gay in 

 March and April, and the other occupants might be expected to flower 

 pretty nearly together. We do not know of a purple or any other descrip- 

 tion of Crocus that flowers simultaneously with the Kanunculus. Yoa will 

 plant the bulbs as early in November as convenient. 



Ferns for Glass Case {R. F. L. K).—Oi Ferns suitable for a Fern- 

 case m a room never below 45' in winter— Adiautum a^siinile, A. curvatum, 



A. cuneatum, A. reniforme, A. pubescens, and A. st^tulosum. Suitable for 

 a small hanging-basket— Asplenium appendiculatum, A. Belangerl (Veitch- 

 ianum), A. bifidum (foeniculaceum). A, decussatum, A. formosum, A. ebe- 

 neum, A. monauthemum and A. monauihemum prohferum ; Blechnum gracile, 



B. australe, B. Utifolium, B. occidentale, and B. lanceola; Campyloneuron 

 angustifolium. C. rigiaum, and C. Fortunii ; Davallia dissecta, U. canari- 

 ensis, and D. tenuifolia; Doodia (Woodwardia) aspera, D. caudata, 

 D. lunulata, and D. media; Doryopteris palmataandD. sagitttefoUai Lastrea 

 acummata, L. glabella, and L. decomposita; Loroaria alpina, L. nuda, 

 L. Patersoni, and L. L'Herminieri ; Acrophorus {ilicrolepiaj novae-zea- 

 laudice ; Nephrodium molie corymbiferum ; Nephrolepis pectiuata and 

 N . tuberosa : Nothochlcena lendigera ; Pellxa flexuosa, P. geranulolia, and 

 P. teriiifoUa ; Pleopeltis percuesa, P. stigmatica, and P. puatulata (the two 

 last are the sogt of Fern to plant in the ha f of a cocoa-nutshell and suspend 

 from the roof) ; Platycerium alcicorae (this is extremely beautiful treated 

 in the same way as the two last); Platytoma talcata and P. rotuudltolia; 

 Polystichum trianguluui (mucronatum) and P. veatitum, rare ; Pteris 

 cretica albo-lmeata, P. serrulata, P. creuata (chinensis), P. scaberula, and 

 r. tricolor; Scolopendiium Krebsii ; Stenosemla aurita ; Tseniopsis (Vittaria) 

 lineata ; and Xiphopteris (Grammitis) serrulata. All the above are hand- 

 some, distinct, small or moderate-growing species; but the handsomest of all 

 for a f eiu-case are the Filiny-Ferns, as Todea pellucida, Hymenophyllum 

 demissum, H. abruptum, H.'flabeliatum, H. flexuosum, &c. ; Tnchomanes 

 elongatum, T. reniforme, T. venosum, T. crispum, and T. radicans or 

 T. speciosum, the Killaruey Fern. These require a humid atmosphere. 

 Neaily all Mosses are suitable for Fern-cases; of them we may instance 

 Seluginella uncinata, S. africana, S. densa, S. apoda, S. jamaicensis, S. obtusa 

 (helvetica), S. denticulata, S. erythropus, S. viticulosa, S. Wildenovii, and 

 several others. The seven preceding the last are beautiful for suspending 

 in small baskets or cocoa-nut shells in the Fern-case. All except the Filmy- 

 Ferns require peat one-half, leaf mould and light loam in equal parts, with 

 a liberal admixture oi silver sand. Good drainage must be provided if they 

 are expected to thrive long. They require to be kept moist in winter and 

 wet in csummer, and are planted like any other plant. Coc'.>a-nut dust, 

 with a little loam added to it, is the be>t of all composts tor Ferns. Our 

 "Fern Manual " contains full particulars of their cultivation. 



Leak-to House for Fehns {An Irish Subscriber].— We should prefer 

 an angle of 45** for the roof, which, with a waU 6 feet high to the north and 

 a 15-Ieet rafter, with one end of it fixed on the north wall and fastened at 

 top to the greenhouse wall near the top, would give an angle of 45" nearly, 

 and make the house some 12 feet in width. You can have it wider by 

 having the roof flatter or less steep. There is no necessity ;or any lights in 

 the back wall, and you can ventilate it by having slide lights at top or to 

 Utt up, having about half the number you would employ lor an ordinary 

 ■ greenhouse. We think your other arrangements would do very well, 

 'except the mode of heating, which we fear would not answer unless yon 

 grew hardy Ferns, which you, no doubt, do not intend to grow in-doors. 

 The openings in the back wall will not admit sufficient warmth in winter 

 to keep the frosts at bay ; therefore, you must have at least a couple of four- 

 inch pipes along the lowest part ol your fernery. Shelves formed of peat 

 are quite a novelty, and no doubt answer well ; but we should think that 

 if a lockery were formed and the Ferns planted out you would like it better. 

 You can have tlie house any width— the wider the more it will cost ; but, 

 irrespective of that, we would have it 12 teet. Such a house will require 

 shading with canvas, or some material, from April until October in bright 

 weather. 



Foul Asparagus-beds (Idem). — Fork out the couch grass at once, 

 but do so without injuring the crowns of the Asparagus. By no means 

 must it be lett a day longer, but fork it out whenever it appears and pull 

 up all weeds torthwith, and in after years never let a weed stand an hour 

 after it is visible or large enough to pull up. It would be a pity to take up 

 the Asparagus, for it would not thrive well if planted again, and unless you 

 have many beds your supply would be cut orf for three years at the least, 

 m addition to incurring unnecessary expanse in making new beds, &c. 



Cuttings of Veebena triphylla (if. J".). — This Verbena may be 

 planted outside in June, and taken up on the approach of frost. Cuttings 

 strike freely in loam and leaf mould, with the addition of a free admixture 

 of silver sand, selecting cuttings of the half-ripened shoots and placing the 

 cuttmg-pots m a little bottom heat. They root more tardily, but without 

 many lailures, in the greenhouse ; and we have struck them in the open 

 border under a hand-glass. . . 



BiucK Stove foe a Greenhouse ( jr. S. i/-).— Fire-bricks are 9 mcnes 

 long, -1 inches wide, 2^ inches thicli. Fire-lumps are 9 inches long, 9 incheB 

 wide, 4 iuches thicH. ihe latter are the most durable, as the mortar burns 



