September 19, 1867. ] 



JOUBNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



217 



substances, which arc suro to kill tbem by degrees. Free, 

 turfy, sandy peat, and abundance of pure rain water above 

 everything, are essential to the production of healthy results. 



In illustration of these remarks, I shall narrate one instance 

 that occurred in my own experience ; though the reverse of 

 creditable to myself, it has taught mo something to avoid after- 

 wards. A few years ago, while replenishing our stock of hard- 

 wooded plants to furnish our new conservatory, some two dozen 

 Heaths of sorts formed part of our purchases, which were extra- 

 ordinarily healthy in appearance ; but on making examination 

 of their roots we found a shift of pots was required. This was 

 a difficulty, seeing our sample of peat was most indifferent, re- 

 sembling more in character sooty mortar than the desirable 

 material. We bad no remedy for it but to bo off to the moors. 

 I took a man with me who professed to know where to find 

 exactly what we required, but after traversing the moor over 

 bog and Iieath for hours, the wished-for material could not be 

 obtained ; and we were therefore obliged to content ourselves 

 with the nearest approach to it. The necessary amount of the 

 most likely poat we had chopped up to a proper consistency, 

 adding a large quantity of silver sand. The plants were then 

 carefully potted and housed in a deep cold frame at the north 

 side of a high wall which divided the garden. For a time they 

 looked all the better of the shift, but at length a few began to 

 show symptoms not at all desirable ; a faint brown began to 

 spread itself among the green of the leaves, and all appearance 

 of growth had stopped. Wo immediately had the plants turned 

 out for inspection, and to our surprise found the roots had 

 never entered the new soil, which we found firmly adhering to 

 the pots, and having assumed the exact appearance of the 

 sooty mixture wo had at home. On continuing our examination, 

 ■we were grieved to find the roots had been receding instead of 

 advancing. Tbo intricate mass of hair-like roots that encircled 

 and protruded through the balls now stuck to the sides like 

 rotten network, making it evident that the plants had been 

 poisoned. 



So much for our home-manufactured peat-compost ; but I 

 must not neglect to mention the other agent of death to the 

 Heath which we had been dealing with. Our supply of water 

 was conducted to the garden in pipes from a well at some dis- 

 tance. Tliis water I afterwards found to be highly impregnated 

 with lime, enough of itself to have done detriment. 



As a last resource, I communicated with our nurserymen, 

 and requested that they might forward a hundredweight or two 

 of the peat used in their establishment, which was done, and 

 from that date began our better fortune. The beneficial effects 

 that followed the application of the good soil I shall now 

 endeavour to describe. We first had the plants taken out of 

 their pots and their roots disengaged from the obnoxious soil, 

 then dressed away the dead fibres with a sharp knife; this 

 reduced their balls one-third of their original size. We next 

 pottel them into the same size of pots, using a mixture of one- 

 fourth silver sand in addition to that the peat already con- 

 tained. The peat was well chopped up but not sifted, and the 

 rougher parts used as a covering for the drainage, which was 

 pieces of the silver sand instead of broken pots. We then 

 transferred the plants to their new pots, pressed the soil firm 

 to their balls while potting, and completed the operation by 

 administering a thorough watering. The plauts were allowed 

 to dry their foliage before replacing in the frame, by standing 

 in a shaded part of the potting-shed. The frame was supplied 

 with a covering inside of coal ashes to a depth of "• inches, 

 well beaten down, that the pots might stand clean and dry, and 

 worms bo prevented getting into them from below. 



After returning the plants, the frame was kept shaded, and 

 little air admitted for the first eight days ; but after this, venti- 

 lation was gradually given more abundantly, and the shading 

 dispensed with excepting on occasions of bright sunshine 

 acting on the plants. After a few weeks the plants began to 

 show a deeper green, and give signs of starting growth through 

 their half-withered points. Throughout this time few root- 

 waterings were demanded. Svringings of pure rain water were 

 given daily when the atmosphere was comparatively hot, but 

 on dull cold days water was withheld, excepting to those re- 

 quiring it at tho root. 



This state of things lasted a Utile longer, until the plants 

 had acquired more vigorous growth, when they entirely got 

 over their former sickness, and onlv left a few with naked 

 stems to tell of their calamity. To remove this eyesore, all 

 tho leaders were carefully pegged down across the pots, and 

 had the points pricked out of them. 



Air was admitted copiously day and night after this stage, 



especially when tho atmosphere was soft and balmy, when the 

 lights were removed. 



Shading was only desirable in the afternoons, to protect the 

 young growths from those piercing blinks of sunshine that 

 sometimes burst out upon us in cloudy weather and on very 

 hot days. With this treatment the plants made wonderful 

 strides, and by the time for placing them in their winter- 

 quarters, wore bristling all over with healthy shoots. Their 

 winter attention comprised potting those whose condition posi- 

 tively demanded more root-room, but those not needing this 

 wore left till spring ; before housing, tho pots were washed, all 

 weeils removed, and the strongest shoots pinched back. They 

 were then distributed along the front stages where partial 

 shading was afforded by other plants, while at the same time 

 they had the advantage of plenty of fresh air and other at- 

 tentions given, such as turning to the light, sprinkling over- 

 head, and sometimes a smart syringing when thought needful, 

 and supplying at the roots enough to keep the soil moist. 



At the commencement of March a shift of two sizes larger 

 pots was given, and each leader-shoot provided with a light, 

 dwarf, well-poiuted stake. With these the plants were assisted 

 into their natural form, whether pyramidal, convex, or flat. 

 The tops of tho leaders were all pinched back an inch below 

 the summit of the stakes. With the same system of treatment 

 as the previous summer, framing them behind tho wail at the 

 latter end of May, .tc, these plants had attained to fair dimen- 

 sions, and had formed a good foundation for fair specimens. 

 Some were covered with bloom, and others ripening their wood 

 in healthy vigorous condition by the time the autumn came 

 round. 



By way of supplement, a few sentences on the propagation 

 of the Cape Heath may be of use to those whom these notes 

 are intended to benefit. 



Propagation hij Cuttings. — From the middle of July to Sep- 

 tember will be found a suitable period to extend the stock. 

 The hardwooded sorts, which are more difficult to root, require 

 a longer time in the nursery-bed, and ought to be put in at 

 once. The softer-wooded varieties will do later in the season 

 or spring. In selecting, the strongest and stillest points ought 

 to be preferred, cutting them from tho plant with a little 

 hardened wood at the base, and using a sharp knife for the 

 purpose ; then dress oiif about an inch of their lower leaves, 

 and they are ready for insertion. For a compost use fibry peat 

 and silver sand in equal parts, filling up the pot or pan one- 

 half with crocks, and spreading a covering over them of the 

 coarser parts of the soil ; next cover with a second stratum 

 from the main body, and complete tho bed with a half-inch 

 layer of silver sand. Slightly press and level the surface, and 

 insert the cuttings about 1 inch apart with a small dibber ; 

 then water through a fine rose to a degree that will saturate at 

 least the two upper divisions of the compost. Cover the cut- 

 tings with a bell-glass, and attend regularly to the removal of 

 the moisture that will gather inside the glass. Spread a piece 

 of paper over the glass under sunshine, and raise the side a 

 little after warm days for an hour. Sprinkle lightly through a 

 fine rose overhead when the surface appears dry; and as 

 regards temperature and place to grow them, the shady side of 

 a greenhouse near the glass, with heat ranging from 60' to 

 65°, will suit. 



Propariation by Seeds. — This can be effected by sowing in 

 tho beginning of August, but with some danger to the young 

 plants in winter from damp and ether causes. The month 

 of March ought to be preferred, when we have the summer 

 before us, that the plants may accomplish all that is ne 

 cessary to establish them in an independent condition (in 

 a sense), to contend with the changes of winter even in tne 

 best house. 



Half fill tho pan with crocks, and lay a covering from the 

 rougher portions of the peat ; next sift through a fine riddle a 

 mixture of equal parts fine silver sand and peat ; fill up the 

 pot to half an inch of the top, and smooth to a level surface 

 after pressing a little together : scatter over the seeds, and sift 

 a little soil over to cover them, and again lightly press and 

 level the surface of the bed : complete the bu.siness by softly 

 moistening tho bed through a fine rose, taking care not to dis- 

 turb the seed-bed. Cover with a bell-glass, and place, if 

 possible, in a shaded place where a little heat can be regularly 

 obtained ; otherwise attend to them as recommecded for cut- 

 tings until the plants make their appearance, when the edge of 

 the glass ought to be raised and air and light gradually admitted. 

 When tho plants have made suflicient strength to handle, they 

 ought to be planted separately into thumb-pots, with the same 



