us 



JOUKNAL OF HOBTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GAKDENEB. ( Decemhor 12, 1867. 



permit of deep rootins, but of plenty of moisture for the roots 

 in dry summers, whilst in wet seasons it allows the super- 

 abundant moisture freely to escape. The exposure of the 

 manure to the atmosphere when general, ia eontraiy to the 

 best agricultural pr.actice, and were we manuring for Turnips, 

 we would not like our manure, juicy and well made, to be ex- 

 posed to the air, but turned under the soil as soon as it was 

 taken to the field, so that the air should not carry off, as it so 

 often does in field culture, the best and most nutritive parts of 

 the manure. In fact, much of the dung taken to fields acts as 

 little more than a mere mechanical agent, the better portion 

 having escaped before it is covered with the soil. But in our 

 flower gardens we rarely want rampant growth like that we 

 desire in a Turnip, and, therefore, though we wish to give a 

 httle help, we sacrifice so much of the nutritive qualities of the 

 manure, m order that we may secure a greater degree of sweet- 

 ness from atmospheric exposure. And then, again, as most of 

 our plants are iucUned to become rather strong towards the 

 end of summer, and would grow stronger still, if the roots were 

 encouraged to go down after manure lodgtd deeply we keep 

 the sweet manure chiefly at the surface, that quick-rooting 

 after planting out may be encouraged, and that the poorer soil 

 beneath may not encourage too rampant growth. Of course 

 when strong growth is the object, then we must reverse the 

 above practice. 



As lately alluded to, dryness in cold pits and frames must 

 now be aimed at, and m greenhouses and conservatories no 

 more water should be given than is absolutely required, and 

 none be spilled, as the less raised by evaporation the less will 

 be condensed to fall as drip. The latter is greatly prevented 

 by giving a httle air at top early, or leaving a little on all night. 

 We had a lofty house in which the flowers used to be washed by 

 drip and we greatly improved it by fixing some squares of zinc 

 at the apex raised a little above the glass, and the sides per- 

 forated with small holes, these being open night and dav 

 summer and winter. ^ o j, 



Chrysanthemums, Salvias, Cinerarias. Camellias, &o must 

 not suffer for want of water, but they should not have it before 

 they require it. Heaths will need plenty of air in mild weather 

 but It is better to give little air than much fire heat. Epacrises 

 will stand more heat. Pelargoniums should be kept near the 

 glass and the most forward should be shifted after Christmas 

 but then they would be the better of 5° more heat than would 

 suit the general greenhouse. 



In the forcing-pit, or house, the great object is to bring on 

 plants gradually, and in the stove, while all plants in com- 

 parative rest are kept rather dry, plenty of water with the chill 

 taken off so as to be m temperature about 70" to 80°, should be 

 given to Ferns, Begonias, Eranth-^mums, Justicias, Poinsettias 

 and Euphorbias, but care should be taken not to syringe more 

 and to use no more fire heat and moisture, than can be avoided! 

 In cold weather it is better that the house should be at 55° 

 than at 70 , or higher, with fire heat. A rise of 10° or 15° from 

 sunshine with just a little air to prevent accumulation of 

 vapour, IS very different from a high temperature from fire 

 neat. — E. F. 



TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 



William Pontey Huddersfield.-L;.,( of Forest Trees, Orna- 

 mental Trees and Slmibx, ,Cc. 



S Jc'a-*^"''^' * ^''"' ^"°''"'^g« yfens.-Cataloauc of Nursery 

 ai^tos^ <^'^»'«="' Saffron Walden.-Ca*a%«<. of Hollyhocks 



COVENT GARDEN MARKET.-Decemdek 11. 



an'dlTw art^Jfi,?' ,1!^ "'^"l ^"^ '",'"""'= *'''™' ""'PP'"' <">'• supplies, 

 it but X nrnlif .^ 'T '"''''' -"l^"!"^"'! i" Pnce in consequence u 

 PotntnP,h»vi^lT '^ ''',""''" "■"■" '""■'"y "''•'""d yesteniny morning. 

 Potatoes have hecu much inquirerl for, good samples iuaking ig per ton. 



FKUIT. 



Apples {sieve 



Apricots doz. 



Clierries lb. 



Chestnuts bush. 



Currants { sieve 



Black do. 



Figs doz. 



Filberts lb, 1 



Cobs 'lb. 1 „ 



Gooseberries . . quart 

 " ' .S 



8. d. 0. d 



2 0to4 

 

 



a 

 



s. d. s. d 

 Oto3 



Grapes, Hothouse, .lb, 



Lemous . . , 





 6 

 ..100 8 12 





 

 

 

 



Melons each 



Nectarines doz. 



Oranges 100 .5 10 



Poaches doz. 



Pears (dessert) ..doz. 2 4 



Pine Apples lb. 4 6 



Pli'ms i sieve 



Quinces doz. 2 0!; 



Kaspborriea lb. 



Strawberries lb. 



Walnuts 



do 



. . bush. 10 18 

 per 100 1 1 



.\rtichokes doz. 



Beans, Kidney 100 



Beet, Red doz. 



Broccoli bundle 



Brus. Sprouts { sieve 



CabbaKe doz. 



Capsicums 100 



Carrots bunch 



Cauliflower doz. 



Celery bundle 



Cucumbcre each 



pickling doz. 



Endive doz. 



Fennel bunch 



Garlic lb. 



Herbs bunch 



Horseradish . . bundle 



VEGETABLK3, 

 d 

 

 



too 

 .-i 

 8 

 1 



8 

 8 

 6 



Leeks bunch 



Lettuce per score 



Mushrooms pottle 



Mustd.A Cress, punnet 

 Onions.... perbusbel 



Parsley per sieve 



Parsnips doz. 



Potatoes bushel 



Kidney do. 



Radishes doz. bunches 



Rhubarb bundle 



Savoys doz. 



Sea-kale basket 



Shallots lb. 



Spinach bushel 



Tomatoes. . . . per doz. 

 Turnips hunch 



B. d. s. 



3 toO 

 1 

 8 

 8 

 5 

 5 

 1 



2 

 2 



9 

 S 6 







9 







8 



4 



2 



i 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



•t* We request that no one will write privately to the depart- 

 mental writers of the "Journal of Horticulture, Cottage 

 Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they 

 are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All 

 communications should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture, dc, 171, Fleet 

 Street, London, E.C. 



N.B. — Many questions must remain unanswered until nest 

 week. 



Books (Constatit nrader).—Ua price is 2.). (Heaton Hall).— The volume 

 now in the press will contain plans of all descriptions of gardens, the 

 formation of their various parts, culture of bedding plants, &c. 



Back NoMBEKs (T. J. Ji>p(/nj7)._We cannot say whetherwo can supply 

 you with the missing numbers unless you inform us which those numbers 

 are. 



_ Pbuning Robes when Planting Them (L. E.).—" With regard to prun- 

 ing Koses at the time of planting, I agree with Mr. Cant, who is an expe- 

 rienced cultivator and first-rate grower of Roses, that it is best not to do 

 so then, or for some little time after. The tops of the shoots contain sap, 

 which subsides down to the lower wood, and helps in the case of immature 

 lower wood to consolidate it, or keep the akin from withering. No doubt, 

 where wood is ripe, you may cut at ouce; but if von do so tlie tree will 

 break before the spring frosts are over. I wish those who require 

 questions to be answered would distinguish between Briar and Manetti 

 Koses. Roses on the Briar, whether for poles, walls, or standards, require 

 to he cut very hard the first spring ; and for want of this, among other 

 reasons, so many Briar Roses fail or do badlv. Manetti Rosos require 

 only to be tipped, thinned out, and to have the side branches shortened. 

 Roses on the Manetti may be pruned as soon as thev have 'taken,' and 

 also after the blooming season is over. All mine on the Manetti stock, 

 fresh planted, or otherwise, havs been shortened a little, thinned out, 

 and skeletonised. They will want but little spring pruning. Rose buds 

 on the Briar are best protected with dry straw or reeds, so as not to 

 exclude air. The protection must be removed as soon as danger ia over, 

 — W. F. Rauclyppe." 



Roses on the Manetti Stock (Q. Q.).— "'I want information on the 

 subject of summer-pruning in order to insure a good second bloom. Are 

 the shoots that have bloomed to be cut back and stimulated to fresh 

 eltorts with liquid manure ?' Do not cut the tree back, but thin out use- 

 leas wood, and apply liquid manure ; and also in hot. dry weather give 

 the plants plenty of water over the leaves and roots. If trees are required 

 to bear two or three seasons of blooms in a season, of course the manur- 

 ing must be in the same proportion. Apply the same rule to plants as 

 you do to animals: feed them according to the exertions reiiuired. 'When 

 Roses make long shoots like Charles I.efebyre and Mar. chnl Vaillant, are 

 these to be cut in order to procure flowering shoots ? How late in the 

 season may this pruning go on r The question is answered in mv article 

 m page 278, on ' stopping gross shoots.' It gross shoots show no sign of 

 bloom-buds (feel the extreme tips of the shoots with your finger before 

 you amputate, and see if a little ' spavin • is forming), cut the shoot back 

 below the red skin down to a full eye on the green skin, or hard wood, 

 and then the shoot will 'break,' and probably form bloom-buds. If it do 

 not form bloom-buds the operation will tend to consolidate firm bearing 

 wood for another year. ' How late in the season mav this suinmer-prnn- 

 inggoon?' Much depends on the climate and the sort of Rose. General 

 Jacqueminot will do m six or seven weeks, or less, what it will take 

 DuchcBse d'Ofleans eight, nine, or ten weeks to do. ' Q. Q.' will bv ob- 

 servation of sorts and knowledge of his climate, best know how late" it is 

 useful to cut hack for prolonging the blooming season. It is of no use 

 irroducing buds for the frosts. 'Does it injure Hybrid Perpetuals to cut 

 them back 1" It is injurious to cut them back before the first flowers 

 have dropped, because it hinders maturation of the wood. The second 

 aeries of blooms and wood may bo cut off, or back, at any time without 

 injury. 1 found in ISOO-Cl the Roses that had no flowers cut ofl- during 

 the season, or till the first flowers dropped, wintered admirably ; but the 

 same sorts that were hacked for bouquets and exhibitions died, or sufl'ered 

 severely. If w-o were sure of a flno autumn, cutting ofl' the first wood 

 and flowers of the year would not so much signify. Summer Roses form 

 their next years wood after flowering is over. 'How should Koses oa 

 Manetti stocks. 2 feet high, be treated ? Thev cannot be buried over 

 the point of union. Would Mr. Radclyflo consider it a good plan to keep 

 the stems enveloped (mine are chiefly iigainst a S.S.E. walll. during sum- 

 mer ui moist moss ?' It is the only plan. Score the tree with vour knife 

 on three sides, from the base to the top, every spring. The stock liv cxposm-e 

 indurates, and becomes hide-bound, and as' hard as an iron bar. The Ma- 

 netti stock Itself, with no Rose on it (half stand.ard). will gi-ow well and 

 become rampant. That is curious, but true.— W. F. Eadcltpfe " 

 [H. J.).—" Roses on the Manetti stock must be covered over the point of 

 union. Four inches above the ground arc too high to bud Rosos on the 



