110 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDKNER. 



t Fobraary 7, 1867. 



also dry by giTing fibundance of air. The potting in October has led, wo 

 presume, to the plnuta being excessively watered, to the destruction of 

 most of the filires, and that we think id the cause of the le-iTc>3 falling, as 

 they are nuythin-,' Imt mature. We can only supf,'est that the plants 

 ahonjd be very curefiiHy watered, none beioR tfiven until the soil becomes 

 dry, and yet not so dry as to cause tht> folinRe to flap;, and then ffive suffi- 

 cient water to show itself at the bottom of the pots. Give all the air 

 possible, do not .syringe the plants uutil they bloom, and then afford them 

 a light situation. 



Gloxinia, Gesnkra, and AcnrMENEs Coi-tcrr (C. TT.).— All thrive well 

 in a compost of turfy loam, pent, and leaf mould in equal parts, adding 

 sand if the soil require it. It should be sandy. The size of pot for the 

 Gloxinias will depend upon the size of the tubers. Those two. three, or 

 more years old should, in tho first instance, have pots twice their dia- 

 meter, and when they have grown n few inches high, and filled the pots 

 with roots, shift into pots 3 inches more in diameter. The Gesneras, if of 

 the tuberous-rooted kinds, as G. purpurea macrantha, require the same 

 sized pots as Gloxinias ; but if of tho scaly-rooted kinds, as G. zebrina 

 splendens, they should have pots in proportion to the number of roots 

 put into each. A seven-inch pot may have live tubers, and a 1'2-iuch pot 

 twelve roots. Vor Achimenes.pots are not ao good as pans 8 inches deep, 

 and 1 foot to 1 foot 6 inches wide. The tubers may be placed in these at 

 an inch apart. AU require the temperature of n- stove— from GO^ to f 0^ by 

 night, and fi'om 70'' to 85'^ by day, or they m»y be started in a hotbed, anil 

 when a few inches high removed to .i viuery at work. 



Tritonia PL>NTiNa (/rfcm).— You may plant ont these any time after 

 March, hardening them off well previou:dy. 



Planting Vines [A. B. C.).— We do not perceive the propriety of double- 

 rodding each Vine, nor whnt you will gain thereby. The case will be 

 different if you have two rods to each Vine and allow a proper di-^tance 

 between them— from 2 to 2.J feet. The Frunkenthal is an excellent Grape. 

 Your plan of pbinting Frankenthal for permanent Vines, and Black Hara- 

 burghs between them for fruiting as soon as possible, is anvthing but ad- 

 visable, though you may do so and take a. heavy crop on the Black Ham- 

 burghs the secoud and third season, and tlien cut them out ; but we are 

 obliged to add that we have tried it, and find the permanent Vines do 

 not make such progress ns those not having temporary Vines between 

 them, and in comparison have lost one year in three. On the removal of 

 the temporary Vines, after having borne two heavy crops, many of their 

 roots must remaiu in the border, and so foster fungi, which, spreading or 

 being in contact with the roots of the permanent Vines, attack and 

 destroy them, rendering the removal of the Vines a work of necessity. 

 This has been the case in those instances of temporary and permanent 

 Vines in one border that have como under our inmiediate observation. 

 We do not, therefore, advise the planting of permanent and temporary 

 Vines in the srtme border; but if Grapes are wanted in greater quantities 

 than the cropping of the newly-planted Vines may be allowed to produce, 

 the wisest plan is to grow them on Vines in pots. 



Wash fou Peach Trees awd Wall (Idem]. —Yon may form a solution 

 of 8 ozs. of soft soap in a gallon of water, and add thereto a lump of un- 

 slaked lime and fl.)wers of sulphur in the proportion of two-thirds lime 

 and one-third sulphur, sufficient to bring it to the consistency of piste, 

 which you may reduce to the thinness of whitewash by adtiiiig tohacco 

 water. Such a composition would be excellent for the wall; hut for the 

 trees we would reduce it in strengtli, and besides, we do not see how you 

 will reach the back of the branches next the wall, unless the trees are 

 unnailed. They may be washed with a solution of 6 ozs. of soft soap in a 

 gallon of tolmcco water, diluted with six times its volume of water— that 

 IS, if the tobacco water from the tobacconist be u^ed, ^Yith a sufBeiency 

 of sulphur added to bring it to the consistency of paint. 



Sowing Rhododendron Seed (Wcm).— The best way is to place 6 inches 

 of very sandy peat in a frame, so as to bring the surface to within that 

 distance of the clnss, level the soil, and sow the seed, just covering it 

 with fine soil. The seed may also be sown in shallow boxes in the same 

 soil, and be placed in a cold frame. From the middle of March to the 

 beginning of April is a good time to sow. 



Heating by Gas (G. K. I,.).— In No. 269 of this Journal, published 

 May 22nd of la^t year, nre described various modes of heating by gas, 

 with a drawing of the apparatus of each. Any one of those modes would 

 do for your small pit. 



Conduct of Gardeners f.-f douninj Ficar).— We have repeatedly pub- 

 lished in our columns under what circumstances— namely, the full con- 

 sent of their masters— they should give away or exchange plants, cut- 

 tings, &c. If you know of any who transgress the rule, wo recommend 

 you to inform their emiiloyers. 



Convolvulus mauritanicus for Edging {C. T. H.).— It makes a good 

 edging for vases and rustic baskets; but we have not tried it for edgings 

 to beds, though it thrives in the open ground in our light gravellv soil, 

 and would probably make a good edging. The plants should be 1 foot 

 apart. It is worth a trial, being a very pretty plant. 



Trees and Shrubs for Bog Soil [G. S.).— The best trees are Alder 

 and Birch ; and as for shrubs, wo know of none that would thrive in such 

 wet and uudrained ground. 



Pruning Old Wall Trees (Tdcm).— You can do nothing with trees 

 that have not been pruned for twenty years, beyond cutting out the old 

 wood. The planting of young trees between the old ones is not good, as 

 the permanent old trees will have spread so much from the wall as to 

 shade tho young ones and interfere with their growth. If tho old trees 

 are worn out or unfruitful we would stub them up, renew the soil, and 

 plant young trees. 



Grafting Rhododendrons (A Lover of Flowers). —The best time to 

 graft Rhododendrons is towards the end of August or early in September, 

 when the shoots have ripened. The shoots of stock and scion should be of 

 equal thickness, or as nearly so ns possible. It is best performed by 

 what is known as side grafting, putting in the grafts near tho soil. The 

 head of the stock should be cut off 6 inches above the union, leaving 

 aome leaves on it. To this the graft may be tied. After grafting, place 

 and keep in a close, cold frame until the union is complete, which will be 

 the case in six or eight weeks. Then give air and harden off. In spring 

 the part of the stock above the graft may be cut off neatly immediately 

 above the point of union. The grafting may be done in spring just at 

 the time growth commences, but success is not so certain in spring as 

 l^ite in summer. 



DisHATiSFiKD GARDENER (Hard Done liy). — You require at least one 

 more active strong assi-itant, and the fowls will create quite enough 

 work for one man. You might lessen Sunday work by procuring on 

 Saturday what is wanted on Sunday; but some things you must attend 

 to on that day. 



Italian Tuberose Culture {J. F.).- The roots should be potted in 

 March, singly, in six or seven-inch pots, in a compost of turfy loam, en- 

 riched by the addition of one-fourth well-rotted manure, or one-third 

 loaf moiild. Peel off the loose outer skins, but not into the quick, and 

 plant them so deeply in the pots that the crowns will be covered with an 

 inch of soil. Any offsets should be removed. If you have a hothed plunge 

 the pots in it, keep the soil moist, but not wet, until the roots push, 

 then give more watejr ; indeed, they require plentiful supplies of water. 

 Afford abundance of air, ;ind when the stems begin to rise gradually 

 withdraw the pots from the hotbed, and remove them to a. light and airy 

 situation in a greenhouse. After potting you may jilace the roots in a 

 greenhouse, but they will not flower so finely as if they were placed 

 in a hotbed, in consequence of which the pots become filled with roota 

 in a short time, and the plants are considerably advanced for bloom 

 before their removal to the greenhouse. Water well and syringe fre- 

 quently to prevent injury from red .spider. 



Cultivating an Acre {Suffolk).~Xf you send thirteen postage stamps 

 with your address vou can have free by post "How to Cultivate Two 

 Acres Profitably." It will give you all the information yon seek. 



Flemish Cherries {E. CD.). — The article you refer to related to the 

 existence or non-existence of trees plnnted by Henry VIII.'s gardener. 

 Flemish Cherry trees may be had of any nurseryman. 



Festoons of Climbing Ropes {He ct or). ~ One of the simplest and best 

 examples of this work we have seen was at Linton Park, where a aeries of 

 festoons surround a sort of oval, in the interior of which were beds of 

 dwarf Roses, divided by gi-avel walks and broad margins of grass, the 

 whole forming a pretty design. The pillars supporting tho festoons were 

 about 8 feet high and tlie same distnnce apart, and the full of the festoons 

 about 13 inches, leaving G; feet clear from the ground, so as to allow room 

 for persons to walk under them without being so high that the Roses 

 could not bo gathered when wanted. The pillars wore ordinary ash or 

 chestnut poles, with the bark removed, and the part in the soil and 

 a little above it was chaiTed before being inserted in th.; ground. The 

 poles were aboittS inches in diameter in the middle, or sufficiently fitout to 

 withstand the force of the wind when the plants were full grown, and it is 

 hotter to err on the side of undue strength than in the contrary direction. 

 A t^imple hoop at the top of the poles will hold a staple, from which a chain 

 or wire may be carried from one to the other. If a chain be thought too 

 expensive a very good substitute may be fonued of pieces of rather stout 

 fencing wire, about a foot long, with the ends bent into hooks or loops, 

 and linked together. When covered with Roses such a support looks as 

 well as the most expensive chain. We have seen a much higher series of 

 pillars, but they are long in becoming clothed with the Roses ; and to wait 

 ten or more years, ns we knew in one instance, where a number of un- 

 usunlly tall Rose pillars were expected to produce an effect, is too long. 

 \Ve may observe that at Linton Park the festoons form the two longest 

 sides of tho oval; a broad walk passing lengthwise through the space is 

 spanned by an arch of Roses, the springings of which nre of the same 

 height PS "the pillars alluded to, a short level bar connecting the top of 

 the festoon pillar with the pillar supporting the arch, and thereby forming 

 an agreeable imion. 



Removing an old Banksian Rose (Jd^m).— You may take it up care- 

 fully with as many roots as you can secure, in the beginning of March, 

 cut in the head pretty severely, but not too much, plnnt it iu a flat basket, 

 such as those iu which nurserymen pack plants, and place it under glass 

 or in some other warm situation, where it may remain until its future 

 position is ready for it. Its top can be tied up to a stake for the time 

 being, and in that condition it will sustain no injmy for some weeks. If 

 its future destination 1)0 against a wall, let the collar of the plant be near 

 one side of the basket, so that, if necessary, when it is planted tho basket 

 may be buried with it, or at all events that the bottom of the basket may 

 remaiu if the sides be cut away. 



FoRciNG-nousE Temperature (TV. J. N.). — We aro well pleased at your 

 success iu the forcing of flowers in a "continuous temperature of 70V' 

 which is nshigh if not higher than that reou'red for any tropical plant we 

 know at this season. We do not recommend a continuous temperature of 

 70^ in the forcing of Roses, Cinerarias, Primulas, Pelargoniums. Hyacinths, 

 and Narcissus, because we find it positively injurious, and we can grow 

 them much finer and have a longer continuance of bloom by having a 

 considerablv less temperature. Roses at no time require a higher tempe- 

 rature than'from 55'=' to 6U° at night; Cinerarias bloom in a temperature 

 of from 50" to 55^; Primulas in one of 45' to 5U"'; Pelargoniums do well 

 forced in a temlierature of from 50= to 5^", and Hyacinths and Narcissus 

 iu one of 50^ All will last longer in bloom if tho above temperatures be 

 reduced 5' when the plants come into bloom. On these temperatures 

 you may allow a rise of 5^ by day in dull weather, and one of from 10"^ to 

 15° with sun and air. With such a temperature as you name you ^vill 

 find the bloom poor, and the plants will become very leggy, and be spoiled 

 for future forcing, which, however, is not of any great moment, as they 

 are seldom used "for that purpose in two consecutive years. What you 

 can want with a continuous temperature of 70" for bedding plants we are 

 at a loss to know, unless you wish to force for cuttings, when a heat of 

 50'^ would serve your purpnse much better. As for Strawberries in such a 

 temperature, we should expect them to prove blind. We anticipate that 

 vour plants will soon be attacked by insects, and become drawn, un- 

 sightly objects if such a temper.aturo bo continued. We would advise it 

 to be lowered 10 within ten days, and 10= iu ten days more, or reduce it 

 to 50= at night, which will grow well all the plants you name. Remove 

 the bedding plants as soon as possible after hardening them well to a 

 more suitable temperature. 



Flora Londinensis (A Cockney Gardener). — You have been misin- 

 formed. The book bearing that name was written by Mr Curtis, and is 

 a botanical work in two folio volumes. If you wish to cultivate flowers 

 in-doors, "Window Gardening forthe Many" will suit you. You can have 

 it free by post from our office if you enclose ten postage stamps with 

 your address. 

 Primula Seed {Mrs. Hen'irick).~Yon had better write to Mr. Deoiii 

 ] Seedsman, Ealing, London, W, 



