196 



JOURNAL OF HOETIOULTUEE AND COTTAGa GABDENEK. 



[ March 14, 1867. 



under his charge, presented him with a handsome microscope. 

 In handing it over to him the deputation expressed the very 

 great pleasure which they felt in thus testifying the high 

 esteem in which Mr. Simpson is held by the gardeners who 

 have served under him. and their appreciation of his worth as 

 a horticulturist. Mr. Simpson returned thanks to the depu- 

 tation, and, through them, to the absent subscribers for their 

 iind attention, and he hoped by the faithful discharge of his 

 duty towards his men to perpetuate the good feeling manifested 

 in the valuable and much-valued gift. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Asparagus, sow and plant if new beds are required ; the 

 beds should run east and west, for more heat will be thrown 

 into them by the full exposure of one side to the noonday sun 

 than would otherwise be the case. Artichokes (Globe), prepare 

 a fresh plantation, if necessary, by deep trenching and high 

 manuring, for if encouraged in this way they will continue, by 

 judicious thinning, much longer in bearing. Broccoli, where 

 any late spring Broccoli has escaped the general destruction, a 

 portion may be token up and forced in frames, in order that 

 at least an occasional supply may be obtained during the 

 ong period of deficiency which must otherwise ensue. C'aiili- 

 jflowers, every means must likewise be adopted to forward 

 them ; those planted under hand-lights will derive some ad- 

 vantage from the protection of a mat in frosty nights. Where 

 hand-lights cannot be afforded, flower-pots should be inverted 

 over the plants at night. After planting out the winter Cauli- 

 flowers there generally remain a number of small plants — 

 these, if pricked out in a cool and shady border, on rich soil, 

 will form a succession, and serve as the connecting link be- 

 tween the principal winter plants and the spring-sown ones. 

 Cabbaric let the soil be frequently stirred between the rows of 

 yonng plants, and plant out from those sown in the autumn. 

 Carrots, it the ground be in a fit state, sow the principal crops, 

 and they are best in drills, not only as regards their growth, 

 but also on account of the facility of hoeing and weeding. 

 Lettuces, keep up asuccessiou, and those in boxes in heat should 

 be pricked out in a warm situation, in highly manured ground. 

 Onions, transplant, taking care that no part of their stems is 

 below the surface. Silver-skinned Onions should now be sown 

 for pickling, the poorest soil in the garden is the fittest ; work 

 it when dry, throw it into high beds — the higher the better — 

 and, after sowing thickly, tread it as hard as a turnpike-road, 

 if possible. Pfus, examine previous sowings, in case of injury 

 from frost, for there is a particular period of their germination 

 in which they are easih' injured, as is the case with many 

 plants in other respects sufiiciently hardy. Successional sow- 

 ings will require to be made. Sow, also, a few Brussels Spwut^ 

 for early use, Calibapcs, Canlithncers for a late crop, Kidnetj 

 Beans. Lettuces. Spinach, Celeri/ and Ccleriac, Ptirsleij, Ea- 

 dishes, and Leeks for transplanting. 



FRtllT GAUDEN. 



Finish off the nailing of wall trees, and protect all as far as 

 possible. Tie down a number of the weak and short-jointed 

 branches of Pears and Plums on walls or dwarf espaliers. 

 This will be found much better than the old or sptirring-back 

 method. In the meantime cut away all over-luxuriant wood 

 close to the stem. Destroy all insects before the trees bud. 

 Clear away all scale, itc, using a wash composed chiefly of 

 clay, water, and sulphur on trees liable to insects. Proceed 

 ■with the grafting of Plum, Cherry, Pear, and Apple trees, 

 unless frosts are so severe as to cause the loosening of the 

 clay. The latter will rarely drop off if the matting or bandage 

 be well smeared over with a little grafting-clay before the ball 

 of this substance be applied. Top-dress Hautbois Strawberries 

 in beds, also other kinds where the ground is somewhat ex- 

 bau'teil. as soon as the old leaves are cut away and the plants 

 Ihoronghly dressed. 



FLOWER G.KRBEN. 

 If Briars are required tor budding Eoses on, they should 

 now be collected, trimmed, and planted in a reserve garden, or 

 where they are wanted to stand for summer budding. All 

 turfing, (tc, should now be finished as soon as possible. Con- 

 tinue the pruning of shrubs, Eoses, tc. "When bulbs are 

 makinf; their apjiearance, the surface should be carefully 

 loosened if the wenther continues dry and free from frost. 

 Lawns, or portions of them, having a hungry sandy soil, and 

 liable to " burn," should have a slight dressing of some kind 



every spring ; even common soil will benefit them, as it induces 

 another tier — if I may be fallowed the term — of surface 

 roots, of course increasing their volume. However, a dressing 

 of marly or clayey soil in a highly pulverised state would 

 obviate the tendency to burn. A slight dressing of guano has 

 an excellent effect in such a case. Those who desire to have 

 Moss and Provence Eoses throughout the summer should now 

 cut back a portion for that purpose, merely pruning away the 

 parts which have budded. Superfluous suckers of Eoses, 

 Lilacs, etc., may be removed and planted out for successional 

 stock, and the old stock of Eoses richly top-dressed. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSKRVATORT. 



At no period of the year, perhaps, is caution in the use of 

 fire heat more needed than in the month of March. March 

 winds are proverbial, and March suns are at times intensely 

 bright. Now, as these winds are by no means to be desired in 

 hothouses, the very best plan is to keep tire heat to the lowest 

 possible pitch all the morning, and when forcing is going on 

 to have a lively fire for a couple of hours in the afternoon — say 

 from three o'clock until live. By these means the necessity of 

 giving much air will be obviated, and the climate within main- 

 tained in a most wholesome state as regards moisture, &c. 

 Frequent attention is necessary at this period, both to the 

 giving of air and also to the taking it away gradually. A con- 

 siderable reduction should soon be made in forcing-houses, and 

 the whole should be taken entirely away as soon as it is con- 

 sidered safe. Canvas shading will be in great requisition also. 

 Conservatory plants to be retarded. Camellias making growth. 

 Pines in a delicate state at the root, whether from disrooting 

 or otherwise, and even the late Vines swelling their buds, will 

 be benefited by a little shade during bright sunshine. In the 

 conservatory, shading will now be of the utmost importance. 

 Camellias growing should be so placed as to receive more shade 

 as well as more atmospheric moisture than the general in- 

 mates of this house. They are, in fact, far better in a little 

 close house by themselves, which should be kept up to 70° by 

 day and 60^ by night, receiving much the same treatment as 

 Orchids at tliis period. Large specimens of Fuchsias should 

 now receive liberal shifts ; in fact, with well-regulated potting, 

 and thorough drainage, they should be placed in their final 

 pots or tubs at once. Kow is a good time to sow imparted or 

 home-saved seeds of tropical plants. Half till the pots with 

 drainage; use peat, loam, and silver sand in equal parts; 

 water the soil thoroughly but slowly with a fine-rosed pot, and 

 cover the surface with a good coat of sphagnum. They may 

 be placed on a warm shelf in the shaded part of the greenhouse. 

 Some of the growing Ericas may be shifted now ; use abun- 

 dance of drainage and sandy heath soil full of fibres, thrust it 

 in lumps round the ball, now and then forcing down pieces of 

 stone or lumps of charcoal, and finally coat over the surface 

 with some of the finer portions of the soil, which should have a 

 liberal amount of sand. The ball must be moderately moist 

 before shifting, for if thoroughly dry no after-watering can 

 bring it right. Pot Cape or other bulbs as soon as the foliage 

 is becoming strong, use chiefly loam, leaf soil, and silver sand. 

 Dress Pelargoniums, and stake them out ; slip off all inferior 

 or ill-placed shoots, and make cuttings of them, they will flower 

 well during the autumn. Lisianthus Eussellianus should now 

 have a liberal shift, with much drainage, and should be placed 

 in pans of water in a Cucumber-frame, or other situation 

 where there is a moist heat. Attend well to watering. Be shy, 

 however, in watering newly-shifted plants. Do not water these 

 heavily, give them a little and frequently through a rosed 

 watering-pot until they become well rooted. 



STOVE. 



Growing Orchids will now rtquire shading for a couple of 

 hours during bright sunshine, for fear of too copious a per- 

 spiration ; also in order to retard Dendrobiums, itc, in blossom. 

 The latter, however, will do extremely well in a dry, warm 

 parlour, or drawing-room, oul.y they will require a good water- 

 ing at the root occasionally. A very moderate amount of at- 

 mospheric moisture will suffice for these plants when in flower. 

 The growing specimens must at this period have a considerable 

 increase in this respect. 



PITS AND FRAMES. 



Much is now required here. Put in cuttings of everything 

 that is likely to be wanted for spring planting. A mild frame 

 heat is the most suitable for striking in. Bell-glasses are not 

 required at this season, but shade slightly in the middle 

 of the day. Pot-off struck cuttings as fast as room can be made 

 by removing the more hardy kinds to colder situations, to 

 harden off for the first planting. Pot-off Ten-week Stocks, and 



