296 



JOUBNAL OF HOBTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GAEDENER. 



[ April 25, 1867. 



the first at 1 foot from the grouml, and allowing the same 

 distance upwards between every line, and consequently branch. 

 This will be easily understood on reference to Jhj. 7. The 

 lowest of the first pair of side branches on both sides of the tree 

 is to bo trained horizontally, and the uppermost on the same 

 main side branch is trained by a line stretched from the set- 

 ting-on or origin of the shoot to that point on the semicircle 

 next above the first branch, which is necessarily horizontal. 

 The shoots, or laterals as they are termed, that were stopped, 

 are at the winter pruning to be cut-in to within an inch of 

 their base. The highest two side branches are to be trained, 

 and the shoots (two each) which they produce, to those points 

 on the semicircle proper to them. The same stopping of the 

 laterals applies to this as to the preceding year. 



In the fourth year the leading or upright shoot, and the 

 highest two side branches are to be cut back to within 1 foot 

 of their base, and the uppermost of the next lowest side- 

 iranch shoots is also to be cut back to 1 toot ; but none of 

 the other shoots must be cut, except the laterals, which are to 

 be cut back to within an inch of their base. The heading 

 back of the fourth side branch will give two shoots, and these 

 are to be disposed as represented in fig. 7, which shows by the 



figures 1, 2, 3, 4, ij, C, and 7 the several headings back of the 

 upright and side shoots necessary for securing shoots to cover 

 the wall. The figures correspond to years, the shoots being 

 severally cut at the bar or line across them, and in the autumn 

 of the year corresponding to the figxire. The tree is repre- 

 sented as trained on a 1'2-feet wall. I have been led to this 

 mode of fan-training from the fact that the ordinary directions 

 for fan-training are vague, and in many cases limited to 

 " training in a shoot so as to cover the wall regularly in every 

 part." Now this advice may result in the wall being covered, 

 but in a very imperfect manner, and many parts of the tree 

 may be iU-furnished with shoots. 



The mode shown in _/(<;. 7 is systematical, and may be prac- 

 tised by the least initiated in garden matters. The chief ob- 

 jection which I have to fan-training, and I do not advocate it 

 for the Pear, is that the upper parts of the branches gi'ow more 

 than the lower parts, and give a preponderance of wood, which, 

 if it does not interfere with the productiveness of the tree, 

 causes the fruit to be far too much shaded. To obviate this 

 defect of fan-training, when the shoots or leaders of the 

 branches reach the semicircle they are trained horizontally, as 

 shown yafiij. S, and upon that part the finest fruit is produced. 



\ \ ^^ \ N \ ' I ' / / / / 



\ ■• .y^ ■. '• : 1 / / /^' '' 



FiK. 7, 



Vprlglii-traininri. — The maiden tree should be headed to 

 within a foot of the ground in the autumn. In spring the 

 shoots from the uppermost buds should be examined, and the 

 two most promising and situated nearest to each other should 

 be selected for training, all others being rubbed off ; then train 

 those retained upright, but allowing a space of about 1 foot 

 between them. 



In the autumn of the first year's completion of growth the 

 shoots, if each more than 3 feet long, as they will be, are to 

 be depressed to a horizontal position, taking care not to break 

 them, and let their points be turned up where the last up- 

 right shoots are wanted, and be cut off at two buds above the 

 bend, as shown in fig. 9. When the buds break in spring the 



ping in the course of the same summer ; the uppermost must 

 be trained upright, and the others stopped at the third leaf. 

 ■The laterals are to be stopped at the sixth leaf, and in autumn 

 Bhould be cut in to within an inch of their base. 

 If less than six upright branches are desired, the two shoots 



most promising nearest to the points at which the uprights 

 are required, as well as one from each extremity, are to be re- 

 tained, and these only, all others being rubbed off. Thus for 

 furnishing six uprights three buds on each side of the stem 

 should be left, the first G inches from the stem, and the next 

 a foot from it, and so on, as shown in fig. '.), a a, b I, and <■ c. 

 The result will be six shoots at 1 foot distance between each, 

 as shown in fig. 10. 



The uprights in subsequent seasons are not to he cut back 

 at the winter pruning, hut in summer, should one be disposed 

 to outgrow the others, stop it when it has grown 13 inches, by 

 doing which the sap will be diverted into the weaker shoots, 

 and they will |gain vigour. Shoots will result from the stop- 



Fig. 10. 



in the first autumn after their production may be cut back to 

 18 inches on each side of the stem for four uprights, two on 

 each side of the stem. The distance between the uprights 

 should be 1 foot. — G. Abbey. 



(To be continaed.) 



