THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF NEW YORK 



to cut "from either side equally well. The blades should be 

 easily removable, both to facilitate sharpening and to save time, a 

 sharp blade being quickly substituted for a dull one in the 

 orchard without having to go to the tool shed. Instead of a 

 common bolt, or a lock-nut a ratchet is to be preferred, because 

 most of the lock nuts on shears work loose, whereas a ratchet 

 may be tightened and kept so without difficulty. As to springs, 

 any style that works freely and is strong may be used. Perhaps 

 the volute is the most general favorite. Whatever style of catch 

 is used for fastening the shears shut it should not catch the 

 operator nor be separable from the shears and therefore easily 

 lost. One that folds on the inside of the handle is good. 



When making cuts of small twigs, as in shortening, it is im- 

 portant to have the lower edge of the cut about even with but 

 opposite to the bud left at the upper end. If the cut is made with 

 a long slant too much surface is exposed and drying of the tissues 

 becomes excessive, so that often the twig may dry back to a lower 

 bud, the upper one dying. The same result follows when the cut 

 is made so as to leave a stub above the uppermost bud ; also when 

 the bud is so close to the cut that it dries. When not more than 

 a quarter of an inch is left above the bud and when the slant 

 of the cut is such that the lower end is even with the base of 

 the bud but opposite to it, the best conditions are provided for 

 growth of the new twig expected to develop from the bud. 



When making a cut with the shears the blade should always 

 be placed against the part that is to remain upon the tree, shrub, 

 or vine, because the squeezed part will then be upon the piece 

 removed. 



Suppose that through ignorance or neglect on the part of some 

 previous owner trees have developed several limbs from one 

 common point ; what may be done to avert disaster ? With small 

 growing trees like peach and sour cherry stout screw-eyes may be 

 screwed into pairs of branches opposite each other and stout wires 

 (preferably number nine) pulled tight between them so each will 

 thus help to support the other. The best time to do this is before 

 growth starts in spring or at least not later than leafing out season. 

 Thus there is least tension on the limbs which consequently are 

 naturally nearer each other than when in fruit. 



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