THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF NEW YORK 



stem, and sometimes five. When they are the size of peas the 

 two side buds should be taken off, leaving the central bud to 

 develop. If by any chance the central bud has been injured, 

 a side bud can be saved, and will give just as large a bloom, 

 but the stem is liable to be crooked. Usually little shoots 

 appear at the joints. These should be removed as far down 

 the stalk as the length of the stem and the size of the bloom 

 is wanted. Severe disbudding helps rather than hinders the 

 plant. It is best to look them over once or even tvice a day 

 during the blooming season, for the buds sometimes appear in 

 a few hours. It takes but a moment, and helps very much in 

 the study of the habits of each variety. 



There are very few pests which seriously menace dahlias. 

 Of these four are the most important, and of the four, white 

 fly is the most difficult to combat. The most effective treat- 

 ment I have found is to make a weak solution of nicotine sul- 

 phate (Nicotiana or Black Leaf No. 40), about half the strength 

 recommended for thrip on roses. Spray under the leaves late 

 in the afternoon when it is certain that there will be no rain. 

 Two applications two or three weeks apart should be all that is 

 necessary. This may be done when white fly first appears, 

 usually in July and August. 



Borers manifest themselves by a sudden drooping of the 

 plant's top. They can be removed with a wire inserted in the 

 hole through which they entered. Sometimes it is necessary 

 to cut off the wilted top, but new shoots quickly replace it, 

 and the plant will soon become normal again. 



If cut worms are liable to be in the soil at planting time, 

 each shoot may wear a collar until this danger is over. Cut a 

 strip of building paper (which withstands weather much better 

 than the ordinary kind), three inches wide and ten or twelve 

 inches long. Pin the ends together and set it around the plant, 

 lyi inches above and below ground. The cut worm can neither 

 climb over or dig under this, and the plant is safe. Remove 

 as soon as the danger is over, in order that the air may circulate 

 around the stem. 



Moles do far more damage than we give them credit for. 

 They heave the soil around the tubers, drying them out. Chip- 



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