February 3, 1870. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



a warm position, and inclining towards the sun; cover it with 6 inches 

 of light soil. Remove the plants with good halls, and by bending sticks 

 over the bed they may bo protected from frost with mats. Water as re- 

 quired, but in tho morning. We presume jou have soino planted under 

 a south wall ; if not, transplant some there with good balls as soon as the 

 weather becomes mihi, 



Dendrobium noeile Culture (A Young Gardener).— The "small 

 lumps " on tho '* long shoot3 r> are flower buds, which will soon expand 

 in a genial atmosphere. If tho plant requires potting, pot it after flower- 

 ing, and encourage growth by a good heat and humid atmosphere, shad- 

 ing from bright sun, and sprinkling frequently with water, so as to 

 Becure uniformity of moisture to the roots. When the plant has ceased 

 growing, gradu.il !v reduce the amount of moisture, and expose it more 

 to light and air, so as to well ripen the growth. Keep the plant dry in 

 winter, and in a light, moderately airy position, giving only a sprinkling 

 of water occasionally to keep the shoots from shrivelling. 



PorNSETTiA Treatment [Idem).— Your old plants ought to be cut down, 

 each shoot to within two eyes of its base. The temperature of the 

 vinery you are going to start will be sufficiently high. Water sparingly, 

 and when the plants break, and have made shoots about an ineh long, 

 shake awny all the soil from the roots, and ropot in pots a size less than 

 those used in the previous year. Shade the plants from bright sun for a 

 few days, and then place them near the glass, admitting air freely, so as 

 to keep them sturdy. Shift them into larger pots in June. The cuttings 

 you may now insert in sandy soil, anil, plunged in bottom heat, they will 

 root in a month or six weeks. Eyes are quite equal to cuttings— indeed, 

 they make the best plants. 



Vine Leaves Scorched [Idem). — The Vine's leaves may be scorched 

 owing to tho steam generated being of too high a temperature, or to a 

 sudden change of temperature, or the scorching may be a result of air 

 being admitted, so as to strike on the foliage with a chill. 



Pterts cretica albo-lineata Treatment (L. L.).— Tho frond en- 

 closed is as named, and is a greenhouse Fern, succeeding in a greenhouse 

 from which frost is excluded. Pot it in March, and encourage it with a 

 moist atmosphere and shade from sun from March to October. The 

 shade of Vines or climbers is suHicient. Water it fraely when growing, 

 and at no time must the soil bd allowed to become dry, though less 

 water and moisture will be required in winter than in summer ; still the 

 soil must be kept moist. Afford good drainage ; and a compost of sandy 

 fibrous poat, two-thirds, one-third loam, and one-sixth of silver sand, 

 will grow it well. The Hare's-foot Fern (Davallia canadensis) succeeds 

 under the samo treatment, only as it loses its fronds in winter the soil 

 will not need to bo kept so moist as for the Pteris. 



Cytisus Treatment (Idem).— It is a greenhouse plant, and should 

 have a light, airy position. Cut-in any irregularity of growth after 

 flowering, or if it do not flower in March, and pot it if required, using a 

 compost of two-thirds loam and one-third leaf soil, with a free admixture 

 of sand. A good growth being made {which the plant should be en- 

 couraged to do by copious waterings, and sprinkling overhead with water 

 morning and evening), place it out of doors in June in an open situation, 

 and supply it with water as required. At the end of September return 

 it to the greenhouse, giving it a light and airy position. 



Echeveria metallica Seed Sowing (J. R. Bond).— Sow it in February 

 in light soil, well draining the pot or pan, and place it in a hotbed, keep- 

 ing the soil no more than moist. When tho plants appear keep them 

 near the glass, and admit air freely, potting them off singly when large 

 enough to handle, and returning them to tho hotbed until they are re- 

 established ; then remove them to a shelf in the greenhouse, and to a 

 frame in May. The soil should he sandy loam one-half, one-fourth leaf 

 soil, and one-fourth bricks or crocks broken small. 



Seeds from India (Idem).— Sow them in February or early in March 

 in a hotbed of from 70° to 75°, and in a compost of two parts loam, and 

 one part leaf soil, covering each kind with a depth of soil equal to the 

 diameter of the seed, and~ when the plants are large euough to handle 

 pot them off singly. When they are established in the pots, remove 

 them to the stove or greenhouse as the kinds'are marked, and shift the 

 plants into larger pots as the pots fill with roots. 



Bedding Plants in Rose Beds [Idem).— It is not good to plant any 

 kind of plants in Rose beds, or beneath standards. Variegated Arabis 

 and other plants no doubt take away the bare appearance, and produce 

 a better effect than whore such plants are not employed ; but they 

 interfere so much with the manuring, and deprive the Roses of air and 

 proper supplies of water to their roots, that the Roses do not make such 

 progress as they would if the plants were restricted to their proper 

 domain, which is not a Rose bed, or circles in which Roses are planted. 



Planting Evergreens [Idem). — They maybe planted up to the middle 

 of April if proper attention be paid to watering. PinUBes and Deodars 

 may be planted from the present time in mild weather until they begin 

 to grow, care being taken to preserve as many of the roots as possible, 

 and, if practicable, a ball. We have removed Deodora from the begin- 

 ning of March to the middle of April with safety ; indeed, that lime and 

 early in autumn are the best periods for transplanting most, if not all, 

 evergreens. April and the beginning of May are good times for trans- 

 planting Hollies, and mild, moist weather in September and October is 

 equally good ; indeed, Hollies that have been frequently transplanted 

 move as safely as the generality of evergreens, and at the same times as 

 planting in general iy performed— namely, in autumn or spring, and mild 

 weather in winter. Hollies may be removed at midsummer if care be 

 taken in watering, but for the general planting of Hollies that time of 

 year is most disastrou?. 



Greenhouse Furnace Smoking (P. M.).— In a recent number was 

 Stated all that can weU be said on unmanageable flues, and how to treat 

 them. In your case the last two Hues let us into the secret, we think— 

 "The fireplace is level with the bottom of tho flue." Make your furnace 

 bars from 18 to 24 inches below the level of the bottom of the flue, and 

 then see how the flue will act. 



Boiler and PrrrNG for Conservatory (.7. TT., juti.). — A small boiler 

 to heat a conservatory 4) by 20, by 14, would need to be 20 inches long, 

 18 inches wide, and 1G inched high. One 20 by 14 would do if the house 

 is a lean-to. If span-roofed, or partly Bpan-roofed, one of the first-stated 

 Size will be necessary, and if larger it would be no detriment. For a 

 lean-to you would require at least 120 feet of 4-inch piping; 160 feet 

 would be better, and for a epan-rooled, or partly span-roofed house, that 



length of pipe would ha required at the least. For the stove a aimilar- 

 sizod boiler would be required, and 150 feet of piping. For a high tempe- 

 rature 190 feet would not be too much. 



ROCKWORK FOR CONSERVATORY [T. H. T.I.— Coi'k WOUld. DO dooht, 



form a good rock-like material, but we fear would bo too costly, and not 

 enduring; besides, it would foster fuugus. We have no experience of 

 pummioe stone, and thick it would be a costly material. The best 

 material that we can think of is coke, which, dipped in rather thick 

 coment, makes a good rockwork. The coke should be in as large lumps 

 as possible, and be dipped in a tub containing cement brought to the 

 consistency of paint with water. The pieces of coke will after two im- 

 mersions much resemble Ktone. The pieces may bo put together with 

 coment ; indeed, we have known the pieces of coke to be put together with 

 cement, and then the surface brushe:l over with cement to give a massive 

 stone-like appearance. 



Tea-scented Roses [Idem).— To have them in flov.er this summer von 

 must secure very strong flints and not prune them, merely removing 

 the points of the shoots and the thin weak wood. Plant them after the 

 middle of February in well-trenched ground, into which a liberal supply 

 of manure has been worked. Water well in dry weather, and syringe 

 well overhead. If the spring prove frosty, protect the youLg shoots by a 

 covering of mats. Due de Magenta, Glmre de Bordeaux, G'oire de Dijon, 

 Homere, L'Enfant Trouve, Madame Bremont, Marshal Nie 1 , Peine dn 

 Portugal, Sombreuil, and Souveuir de rEmporour Maximilien are vigorouE- 

 growing Roses suitable for pillars in positions near the sea, and for an 

 east wall. 



Lily of the Valley Culture (Lorraine).— The culture is very simple ; 

 all that is required is a border facing north-east, north-west, or even north, 

 rather than a very sunny hot exposure ; indeed, the situation should be 

 shaded from sun, bat not by overhanging trees. The ground should be 

 deeply dug or trenched, and a liberal dressing of leaf soil mixed with it, 

 but no manure. A rich sandy fibrous loam is the most suitable soil. 

 Plant in clusters of two or three crowns, 6 inches apart, in lines 1 foot 

 from each other. Planting is best done in November, but it may be 

 dono in mild weather from now to April. Keep e'ear of weeds, and water 

 freely in dry hot weather In summer. A mulchiug of leaf soil or very 

 rotten manure about 1 inch thick may bo given early in spring. In three 

 years you will have fine clumps for forcing. For further particulars see 

 No. 45G, page 498 of last volume of this Journal. 



Oxalis trop^oloides Treatment (Little Snip).— It is not only aplant 

 that will "live oat" in summer, but also during the winter where the 

 soil is light and well drained; but in moist situations it i3 well to take 

 up a few plants in autumn, pot them, and place them in a pit or cool 

 house, protected in severe weather from frost. In March the plants may 

 be divided, and every portion that can be handled — shoot or stem — 

 having a few roots, should be potted in small pots filled with sandy loam 

 with a little leaf soil, and placed in a mild hotbed, keeping the soil moist 

 and the lights close. When the plants have commenced to grow freely, 

 admit air, gradually harden them off, and remove them to a cold 

 frame ; by May they will be fit for planting out for edging, &c. Where it 

 has been sometime, it sows itself; annually plants come up from self- 

 sown seeds. The seed may be sown in March iu light soil and placed 

 in a hotbed, and by attention to pricking off an inch or two apart in 

 pans, fiue plants may be obtained by planting-out time; seedling, how- 

 ever, do not flower so early in the season as plants from cuttings or 

 division, but tbey are more free in growth. 



Manure for Pasture (E. J). — Guano would be better than soot. 

 Apply it during showery weather early in April. Powdered brickbats 

 would render a dry soil drier. 



Plant-pot Cases (Mrs. S.).—We think theso which you describe must 

 be made of zinc, and such can be procured of any of the florists who 

 advertise iu this Journal. They arc painted in various patterns ; and 

 when the paint is injured any house-painter and grainer can repaint them 

 of a pattern preferred. 



Cankered Apple Trees (C. E.).— Whoever said that "skinning" the 

 tree was advisable knew nothing about what he was speaking of. The 

 cankered part might be cut out and a plaster of clay and cow dnng put 

 over the wound, but the disease is in the tree's system. If caused by the 

 roots descending into an ungeuial subsoil those roots should be cut oft, 

 and the production of surface roots promoted by top-dressings, and 

 mulching and even watering in summer. Increased vigour is the best 

 preventive of canker. 



Ice-house (I. S. L.).— One of tho cheapest and most effective was 

 formed by Mr. Earley, and thus described by him :— Select a spot, if 

 possible under trees, and up m the base of an abrupt slope in the ground, 

 falling some 4 yards in 10. You thus insure a natural drainage from the 

 fact of the ground being lower, water finding its own level, than the table 

 land you make, upon which to pack your ice. This essential level should 

 be raised by pecking out a piece of the bank, or, better, made up with 

 waste stones. Again, in this way, independently of the natural drain- 

 age, you easily form an effective watei-and-air drain from beneath the 

 centre of the ice, through waste stones, to the level below. If the quantity 

 to be preserved is from thirty to forty loads, four posts should be 

 plunged perpendicularly into the ground, for the double object of forming 

 the place, and more particularly supporting tho thatched roof. They 

 should be so placed as to form an interior of 9 feet square ; the height of 

 the same should be 9 feet also. Not to trespass upon this interior, a row 

 of hurdles should be placed round tho three sides to be enclosed, stood 

 on end, properly supported. Two feet from these, outside, should be 

 placed another row of hurdles in precisely a similar way. Between these 

 place the straw, and behiud it any old thatch will do ; it must be well 

 trodden and rammed down. The thatch should be placed beyond this 

 that it may not become wet. A vacancy of at least 1 foot of open space 

 all round between the aforesaid thatch and the top of this straw wall 

 should be left, to admit of a draught passing right over the mass. At 

 last we come to the filling. If vou tip ice from the cart direct into its bed 

 it is preferable to have the first layer placed in the way you would floor- 

 ing tiles. If possible, after the first slight or partly effective thaw, the 

 place should, if the weather prove frosty, be thrown rigbt open. When 

 the weather again breaks, io be effectively covered over with at least 

 2 feet of straw ; the best of wheat straw being placed immediately over it. 



Cehexted Pond Leaking (J. N. C. P.).— Portland cement is the best, 

 and will not crack from the action of frost on the face. Ii is the damp 

 in the brickwork upon which the frost acts, and by its expansion the 



