February 17, lc70. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



stocks down at once, or by instalments. Bud on your stocks, the size of 

 your finger, this year again, as 60on as you have buds ready, and as 90on 

 as the bark of your stocks will run. Charles Lefebvre is a famous grower, 

 and very hardy and healthy. I do not know how it succeeds on a Briar. 

 You cannot havo the true sort. There is no crimson Rose nearly equal 

 to it.— W. F. Radclyffe." 



Rose Beds (J. £.).— Your beds were not likely to succeed when ;raade 

 of 3 feet of clay dug out of foundations, as the clay would never have 

 been exposed to the fertilising action of tho sun and air; and though 

 Roses on the Briar stock do well on strong soils, yet it is only on those 

 soils which have been well pulverised by constant care and attention, and 

 thoroughly manured. By all means do a3 you propose ; take up the plants 

 as soon as ever the weather will permit you, take all the soil out of the 

 bed, and thoroughly incorporate it with lighter soil, with a good propor- 

 tion of leaf soil, and a liberal supply of well-decomposed farmyard manure. 

 If the beds are much exposed to the sun eow manure is the beat, but as 

 a general rule there is no better manure than pig manure; or, if you 

 adopt the old-fashioned way (which under the form of Mr. Honle's earth 

 closets is again being very generally adopted), of mixing night soil and 

 ashes, it would prove a valuable addition to tho soil of the bed, as the 

 ashes would help to make the soil more porous. By all means try and 

 renovate your beds this spring rather than wait till autumn, and if you 

 should in any way be prevented, do so aarly in October, and do not wait 

 for November. As your Roses are mostly on their own roots there could 

 hardly have been a worse treatment for them than that 

 received from the hands of your predecessor. There is an old adage, 

 " Save me from my friends." 



TWENTr-FODR ROSES FOR POT CULTURE (J. T. B.).—Eyh, '■' P , < -c 



als.— Charles Lefebvre, John Hopper, Dulic of Edinburgh, La Duchesse 

 de Moray, Marguerite de St. Amand, Pierre Notting, Princess Mary of 

 Cambridge, Jules Mar got tin, Comtesse Decile de C-habrillant, Mdlle. Bon- 

 naire, Alfred Colnurb, Due de Kuhan, Madame la Baronne de Rothschild, 

 Senateur Yaisse, Victor Verdier, and Xavier Olibo. Bourbon. — Souvenir 

 do Malmaison. TeanccntcL—Gloire de Dijon, Adam, and La Boule d'Or, 

 Souvenir d'ua Ami, and Madame Willermoz. Noisettes.— America, and 

 Marechal Niel. There are some of the old varieties of Hybrid Bourbons, 

 &c, which succeed very well iu pots, as the International Exhibition of 

 1862 sufficiently showed all lovers of Roses. Such are Charles Lawson, 

 Coupe d'Hebe, Juno, Paul Perras, and Paul Ricaut; hut these only bloom 

 once, and are, therefore, not so useful for general pot culture as those 

 above mentioned. We have omitted one which ought to bo added amongst 

 the Tea Roses — viz., Yicomtesse de Cazes, which, though of a delicate 

 habit, is a very free bloomer in a pot. 



Garden Plan (Hoitefctrst).— We think the general arrangement of 

 the sunk flower garden is very good, there is so ;much free lawn space 

 between the group in the centre and the beds rouud the outside. We 

 have searched in vain for tho figures 6. All the garden seems to be in 

 fours— that is, in four groups, or double pairs of one thing. The plant- 

 ing should depend somewhat on the colour of the coping or surround- 

 ings of the large central fountain, and also on the colour of the coloured 

 glass which forms the divisional paths. If that glass is dark, then 

 edging the whole of the beds with Cerastium would look very well, with 

 one exception, the four beds marked 4, for yellow Calceolarias, which 

 will not come in well with white; but if you bolted them with Purple 

 King Verbena, the white outside would then come in well. As the four 

 8's stand free on the lawn, we would plant them as proposed, but have a 

 slight ring of yellow, as Golden Pyrettirum, between the Lobelia and the 

 grass. You might then have blue round 12, as well as 11. 



Golden Feather Pyrethbtjm (Q. Q.).— Its bad appearance is owing 

 to the plants having been token up in autumn and planted round beds of 

 bulbs. Cut off the unsightly parts as soon as the weather becomes mild, 

 cutting rather close to the ground. Tho plants will start from the 

 bottom, and have good foliage by May. 



Hyacinths and Narcissuses after Flowering {Idem).— They should 

 be continued under glass, have protection from frost, and be watered as 

 required, so as to keep the foliage fresh. After being hardened off they 

 may be planted out in April, or in«March if Iho weather be mild. 



Variegated Pelargonium Cuttings {Idciiv. — The 20th of February is 

 not too early to put in cuttings in a dung hotbed ; but you must have the 

 bed sweet, and take care that the cuttings do not damp off from the steam 

 of the bed or the excessive moisture of the soil. 



Zonal Pelargoniums for Winter Flowering (Agnes). — There are 

 but few such Pelargoniums that flower well in winter. The best that we 

 know are Clipper, "Stella, President Lincoln, Rebecca, Lord Palmerston, 

 and others of the Nosegay family. The plants should be placed in their 

 blooming-pots early in August, after being pottedon and forwarded until 

 that time. Pinching the shoots ought not to be practised after the end 

 of August, and the plants should be housed by the end of September. 

 The Show and Fancy, or what you know as greenhouse Pelargoniums, will 

 not answer for the* purpose Tom Thumb and Christine, with many 

 others, though they have no horseshoe or zone, are, nevertheless, Zonal, 

 being derived from kinds that had the zone or marking characteristic of 

 the Zonal Pelargoniums. 



Iresine Treatment (Idem).— Cuttings should have been put in during 

 August in sandy soil, and struck in a frame with a gentle heat. The 

 cuttings may remain in the cutting-pots until the middle of February, 

 being wintered in a house having a temperature of 45 to 50°, and then 

 be potted off singly in small pots, in a comrost of two parts turfy loam 

 and one part leaf "soil, with a free admixture of sand. Place them, after 

 potting, in a house with a gentle heat, and in a rather moist growing at- 

 mosphere. When the plants nro growing freely, you may, if you wish for 

 more, take off any shoots suitable for cutting?, and in a hotbed of 70 c 

 they will strike freely in about three weeks ; if potted-off and forwarded 

 these will make good plants by May, their points being taken out at the 

 third leaf to make them bushy. The autumn-struck cuttings should be 

 shifted into larger pots when those in which they were first potted be- 

 come filled with roots, and have the points of the shoots taken out at 

 the third leaf of every growth so as to keep thtin bushy, on which depends 

 their utility for bedding purposes. Do not over-water, and to encourage 

 growth keep the plants in a rather shady position. Harden them well off 

 by the end of May, and plant them out at the beginning of June. 



Conservatory-heating by Gas (J. P.).— Write to Mr. Shrewsbury, 

 ironmonger, Lower Norwood, and tell him the dimensions. His appara- 

 tus will Buit you, and is cheaper than you could erect one. 



Annuals for Redding (J. W. S.).— Bore.— Bftponaria calabrica, and 

 Silene pendula r uberrima. White— The double white variety of Senecio 

 elcgans, and Sweet Alyssum. Blue— Nolana prostrata, and Whitlavla 

 grandiflora. Scarlet and Pink. — Linum grandiflorum cocciuenm, and 

 Yiscaria oculata coccmea nans. Fi llow.— LeptoBiphon aureus, and Esch- 

 scholtzia oalifornica compacta. Purple.— Dwarf Dark Cluster variety of 

 Convolvulus minor, Nolana lanceoluta, and oaradoxa violacea. 



Trees on Rack Wall of Vinery (W. A. S.).— As to what you prefer, 

 it is a matter of choice. Peaches and Nectarines would do very well 

 against the back wall, as we presume the border will be from 8.4 feet in 

 width, and it is all the better of being raised above the path. ~ If yon 

 preferred Vines we would plant them there, training them up the wall 

 and down the roof. You can hardly have both, if the place is only G feet 

 wide, and the fowl-house in front is roofed with boards and felt, as thus 

 no light penetrates into the narrow house except from the roof. If the 

 fowl-house had been roofed with thick glass it would have been different, 

 more especially if you had a glass division ; and since yon propose heat- 

 ing the house, if you had Vines, we would prtfer planting them at the 

 back, instead of at the front, and having the roots at the mercy of the 

 fowls. With your proposed division of open wire-netting, you will do 

 very well, if you do not use much artificial heat. 



Various about a Vinery {A Subscriber In the North).— 1, We think you 

 can have the three numbers referred to, if yen send their respective 

 dates and twelve postage stamps with your address. 2, We think that 

 your new boiler is quite large enough to give yon all the heat you deem 

 necessary in the various houses. 3, We are not so sure, if we see the 

 propritty of making the communicating pipes from the boiler to the 

 houses 2 inches instead of 4 inches in diameter, as these houses are, re- 

 spectively , 29 feet and 5 feet from the boiler. Unless the '2-inch pipes are 

 thoroughly isolated in non-conducting material they will radiate much 

 heat before they extend the 53 feet in length. Kept dry and packed in 

 sawdust they would not lose much, and if it be kept hollow, but cased 

 round with wood and sawdust, with openings into the house, much of 

 the heat given off in this conduit would he propelled into tho house, more 

 especially if a small opening were given to the conduit near the boiler. 

 4, We presume as the vinery is nearer, that there you have enough of 

 heat. 5, The one flow and one return on each side of such a lofty span- 

 roofed greenhouse will not do much more tb?,n keep out frost in severe 

 weather. We presume, that the pipeB do not go to the 15-feet-wide ends. 

 If not, if you wish to keep up an average temperature of from 40 to 45- 

 in severe weather in winter, say with the thermometer 20 3 below the 

 freezing point, then you had better have another flow on each side. G, If 

 you make the end nearest the boiler a stove, you will be helped with 

 what comes from the conduit of the connecting pipes between the boiler 

 and house; but here, at least, you would require three pipes on each side 3 

 and if you wanted a high temperature for tbe most tender tropical plants, 

 we would prefer four pipes, three flows and one return on each side. In 

 severe weather that would enable you to keep up a temperature of from 

 60 Q to 70°. If you had three pipes on each side, you could manage by 

 running a mat along the upright side-glass in very severe weather, such 

 as we have had this week. 7, To give this greater heat to the stove end, 

 you would require to he able to heat this division independently of the 

 greenhouse end, and this involves having stop-valves, &c, so that il yon 

 really require the whole length as a greenhouse, we would advise building 

 a house for a stove against tho wall near the boiler and vinery. If you 

 wished a lofty house you could have a hipped roof, or make it with an 

 upright like the greenhouse and a lean-to roof. The best arrangement 

 would be a narrow platform all round, and a table or pit in the centre. If 

 a lean-to, four 4-inch pipes in front and at the ends would do, or three 

 along the ends and front, and two at back. It is poor economy to have 

 insufficient piping, as the plants will thrive all the better when the heat 

 of the water in the pipes is not so very high, say seldom above 170?. 



Vine Border {A. A'.).— For your Vine border, the first proceeding is to 

 secure drainage, then a concrete or paved bottom, with from 6 to 9 inches 

 over that, and then a reversed turf will make a good bottom. Next yon 

 should have about 2 feet of soil. Sandy fibrous loam from an old pasture 

 stacked from six to nine mouths before using, will form the best material ; 

 if npt, you must take the best you can, sell neither too sandy nor too 

 much clay in it, but a loam moderate in these opposite conditions, and 

 fresh and dryish when used. To every ten parts of this loam add one of 

 lime rubbish, one of thoroughly charred wood, broken but not dusty, one 

 of horse droppings, heated enough to prevent the growth of corn and kill 

 all spores of fungi, and about 3 cwt. of broken bones that have previously 

 been boiled. Mis all together. You may make the border at two or 

 three times. 



Removing Vinery (W. B. B,)— Your "understanding" with the land- 

 lord not being in writing is, as usual, a misunderstanding. You cannot 

 remove the woodwork if he objects. The Grapes being sold makes no 

 difference; on the contrary, if you had lived by such sales — that is, been 

 a marlet gardener, you might remove the vinery, probably even without 

 an agreement. Black Hamburgh Vines will suit for pot culture. Belle- 

 garde Peach will do for the hack wall. An Apricot might succeed. 



Insect in Vine Eorder (Amateur).— Is the insect like that represented 

 in the accompanying engraving? If so, it is Phylloxera vastatris, of 

 which yon will find a full account in pages 45, 4o", and 47 of vol. svii., 

 No. 433. If not, send us a specimen. 



Pbvllosera vastatrix (J. E. Pianchon).-Fema!e specimens and their eggs. 

 'a antenna-, h, hnrna or suckers; c, eg(j plamlj visible m the body. of 

 the insect ; f, winged form of the insect. All magnified. 



