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JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ March SI, 1870. 



I could only say it seemed right, but that authorities always used 

 the two i's. We compromised the matter by agreeing to drop the 

 Latin name altogether in our common conversation, and always 

 say merely Drummond Phlox. 



And this brings me to ask, Why not use these common names 

 oftener than we do f To be sure, some of them are worse than 

 the hard names I would avoid. Love-lies-bleeding, Robin- 

 run-in-the- hedge, Joseph's C >at, Rag-tag-and-bobtail, and such 

 expressions, are worse than Warscewiczii, which our gardener 

 pronounces " worst kind of whisky I, " or any other tremendous 

 effort of the Latin tongue. 



But there are names not intelligent or rough which one might 

 use ; and where there are none, I do not see why some one in 

 authority might not make them so as to be generally acceptable. 

 I remember, while a reader of Downing's " Horticulturist," that 

 he gave the name of Golden Bell to the Forsythia on its first appear- 

 ance. It has proved generally acceptable, and we have only to 

 picture to ourselves what we should all be, twisting our mouths 

 to say Forsythia vividissima on every occasion, in order to thank 

 Downing and all those good friends whose foresight keeps us out 

 of all these evils. 



I suppose I am treading on dangerous ground, and that you, Mr. 

 Editor, will want to differ from me. I fancy I have heard all 

 you wLl want to say before. You would keep together " the 

 harmony and uni'y of the science. A Frenchman, a German, and 

 so on, all know Latin, and thus lenow what is meant at once on 

 reading the Latin word. " All this is well enough for botany. 

 I say let there be botanical names by all means ; but let us have 

 garden names as well. My two girls are Charlotte and Jane, re- 

 spectively, but it seems more home-like, and does, I think, bring 

 them nearer our everyday hearts, to call them Jenny and Lottie ; 

 and so I am sure we can appreciate Pansy, Gilliflower, and Mig- 

 nonette better under these names than we ever could as Vi ola 

 tricolor maxima superba, Reseda odorata, Matthiola annua, or the 

 sweetest Latin sound ever uttered. I think so. — {American 

 Gardener's Monthly.) 



SHRUBS FOR PLANTING NEAR THE SEA. 



For the information of your correspondent (see page 233), 

 I give the result of my trials. The ground I have planted 

 within the last seven years is close to the coast, and at an ele- 

 vation of 200 feet above the sea level. The soil is sandy 

 loam, and the site is exposed. I have planted almost every 

 variety of tree and shrub, and lost many hundreds. The 

 following have flourished well, and are now fine, healthy, 

 vigorous trees : — Pinus anstriaca, Laricio, and Morinda ; Picea 

 Pinsapo, Menziesii, nobilis, Fraseri, Nordmanniana, grandis, 

 and balsamea (B.ilm of Gilead) ; Capressus Lawsoniana and ma- 

 crocarpa; Cedrus atlantica and Deodara ; Araucaria imbricata ; 

 Junipers, Berberis, CeraBns Laurocerasus, Hollies, Euonymus, 

 Arbutus, Yews, Laurustinus, Daphnes, Rhododendrons, Cotone- 

 asters, Wellingtonia gigantea, Thuja gigantea, Thujopsis bore- 

 alis, Beech, Elm, Sycamores, Acacias, Thorn Heaths, and Ktil- 

 mias. 



Any further and more particular information I shall be glad 

 to give. — Delta, Scarborough. 



I have experienced great difficulty here (by the sea) during 

 the last six years in getting trees and shrubs to stand the 

 heavy gales. " G. R." will find the following satisfactory — ■ 

 viz., Euonymus japoniens, common Holly, Evergreen Oak, 

 Bay, Lignstmm ovalifolium, Tamarisk, Green-leaved Box, Aris- 

 totelia Macqui, Chinese Arbor-Vitse, Pinus anstriaca, Double- 

 blossomed Furze, and Laurustinus. These grow about 100 yards 

 from the sea, and upon an elevated spot, where they received 

 no protection, except with a few straw hurdles during the first 

 winter after planting ; afterwardB they were left to care for them- 

 selves. — A. F. Godward, Nurseryman, Southend, Essex. 



THE ROSE WEEVIL. 



Can anyone tell me of a method to prevent the attacks of the 

 Rose weevil on the young shoots of my Roses ? Do you think 

 a little soot, or soot and lime mixed, put on the soil at the 

 base of the stock would effectually check the weevil's climbing 

 np the stem ? Last year I killed a great many of these pests 

 at night by the help of a lamp and a sheet of newspaper, but 

 in several cases damage had been done before the enemy could 

 be found at his work and secured. — A Subscriber. 



[We have no doubt that soot and lime at the base of the Etems 

 of the Roses, will materially assist in preventing the attacks 



of the Rose weevil ; but we should be glad of the experience of 

 any of our correspondents who are Rose-growers, as it is very 

 difficult to prevent the weevils from attacking Roses, and it is 

 very important to prevent their ravages, if it is possible. Hand- 

 picking begins to be a difficult and tedious point when hundreds 

 of RoBe trees have to be looked over.] 



STRAWBERRY CULTURE. 



The numerous complaints which are made about Strawberry 

 plants not bearing make us anxious to know the best mode of 

 treatment to insure a crop. Having had many years' expe- 

 rience in different counties, I will here explain the mode of 

 treatment under which I have always found Strawberries 

 succeed best, and seldom known them fail. 



In the first place, the ground intended to be planted Ehould 

 be well trenched — say from 18 inches to 2 feet deep, and, if 

 convenient, some rough or long stable dung should be put in the 

 bottom of the trench. Let this be done as early in the spring 

 as convenient. After the ground has settled, a good coating 

 of decayed stable dung should be dug or forked in, and before 

 planting the space should be well trodden and levelled, select- 

 ing a fine day for the operation. The more firmly the ground is 

 trodden, providing it does not cling to the feet, the better. It 

 should then be marked out in rows 2 feet apart, and holes dug 

 to receive the plants. A spadeful or so of good fresh soil, sueh 

 as fibrous loam and one-third rotten dung, or turf pared from 

 the roadside, I find will suit them very well. The plants 

 should all be layered in small pots, as they will not then suffer 

 from removal at planting. When the pots are filled with roots 

 the planting should be done, and the earlier the better, as by 

 planting early a year is gained in fruiting, and I have found 

 the plants bear a very fair crop the following spring. 



On the plants being put in, the soil should be made firm by 

 treading round them, and watered when required. As soon aB 

 they begin to grow the soil should be kept stirred, and all 

 runners cut off as they appear. 



With frequent waterings and manure water occasionally, they 

 will be good-sized plants towards the autumn. They should 

 then have a good mulching of rotten stable dung before frost 

 sets in, as that preserves them from freezing, besides acting as 

 a manure when washed in by rain. 



In the spring, the plants should be again carefully looked 

 over and made firm, should there bo any loose, as on their 

 being firm in the ground sturdy growth greatly depends. 



Some growers recommend cutting off the foliage after all the 

 fruit is picked. I have never found any benefit from the 

 practice, except where the plants were very crowded and the 

 foliage very much drawn up, in which case, if the leaves are 

 cut and some of the plants taken out, those left make much 

 better foliage, and ripen the buds for bearing in the following 

 year. 



As soon as the Strawberries show bloom in the spring, the 

 flowers ought to be thinned out where too numerous, for the 

 plants should not be allowed to bear too much the first year. 

 All runners should be cut off, for where fresh plants are wanted, 

 it will be much better to plant a few on purpose to establish 

 runners than to take them from the beds, which are often 

 destroyed more by treading on the plants in layering the 

 runners than in picking the fruit ; but if a distance of 2 feet 

 be allowed between the plants, there will be just room enough 

 to pass between them, to clean them or to gather the fruit, with- 

 out treading on more than are gathered, which is often the case 

 where the plants are closer together. 



If these directions be carried out, and the plants be kept free 

 from weeds and runners, they will require but little trouble 

 and expense after planting. — A Subscribes, Lancashire. 



LOPEZIA MYRTIFOLIA. 

 Do any of your correspondents know a fine winter-blooming 

 plant, Lopezia myrtifolia? A fdw days ago I saw some nice 

 plants of it decorating a nobleman's conservatory, and was 

 told that it had been flowering there since midwinter. It was 

 struck from cuttings last summer, and treated in the ordinary 

 way for young Fuchsias ; it is, therefore, easily grown. It was 

 a most useful plant in the place, and would be valuable for 

 bouquets or even for table-decoration. A little distance off, 

 from its foliage and the colour of its flowers, it appeared to be 

 not unlike that favourite little Faohsia— microphylla, though 

 on a closer inspection it was very different ; its flowers were 



