April 7, 1870. ] 



JOUBNAL OP HOBTICUL.TUBE AND COTTAGE GABDENEB. 



263 



into lengths of about 6, 9, 12, and 18 inches ; and when it is 

 ont be particular to make the lengths into three loose heaps — 

 i.e., those lengths that measure the least in diameter into the 

 first heap, those of the greatest diameter into the second, and 

 those which range between the least and the greatest diameter 

 into the third. Also, prepare a smooth circular piece of wood 

 from 4} to 5 feet in length, and 6 inches through. Attention 

 to these things at this stage of the process will greatly econo- 

 mise the amount of labour which will afterwards have to be 

 bestowed upon the building of the pile. 



The wood being thus prepared, next proceed to select a con- 

 venient plot of ground upon which to burn it, and which, I 

 would remark in passing, might be the corner of an adjacent 

 field, the Melon-ground, the compost-yard, or, for want of these, 

 the centre of a spare quarter in the kitchen garden. 



The ground being fixed upon, level and make it firm by 

 beating it with a beater or the back of the spade, and then in 

 the morning of a fine day, when the weather looks settled, wheel 

 the wood to it, keeping the heaps, as already, separate from each 

 other when placed round the ground where the principal heap is 

 to be formed ; also have brought from the field or common a 

 cartload of sound turf, and place it at a proper distance from 

 the material already on the ground. 



Into the centre of the ground which has been made even with 

 a mallet, strike one of the thick pieces of wood, which, I would 

 observe, must have been pointed at one of its ends when the 

 rest of the wood was being prepared. Allow it, when fixed in 

 the ground, to stand about 9 inches above the surface of the soil 

 round it ; begin to form the pile by placing a few of the shortest 

 lengths of the dry wood equally round the bottom of it, and then, 

 against these, others with one end resting on the ground, so that 

 the end whioh is the uppermost will incline towards the centre 

 of the heap. They must be placed as closely to each other as 

 possible in an imbricated style. In this manner proceed until 

 the heap reach to the top of the stake. Afterwards mix with 

 the wood a quantity of shavings which have been got from the 

 carpenter's shop, which will cause the wood to ignite sooner 

 than it would do if they were not used. The form of the heap, 

 when of the dimensions above stated, should be that of a cone, 

 on the point of which must be mounted on end the long, smooth 

 piece of wood which was made ready for the occasion as already 

 stated. Be particular to make it firm by putting the end of 

 three rods into the ground, so as to form the three points of a 

 perfect triangle, and fastening the other ends of them to the 

 top of the wood. Then take about one-fourth of the lengths 

 which form the first heap of wood, and tile-form lay them 

 equally all over the central pile ; also, take the whole of the 

 second and third heaps, and use them one after the other in 

 the same way, finishing with a layer of the remaining three- 

 fourths of the first heap. 



The reason for arranging the wood in layers in this form is, 

 that that which is of the greatest diameter, and which is near 

 the central layer, is no more than ready for being drawn when 

 the outward one is perfectly burnt into charcoal, and, con- 

 sequently, the pile is ready for being taken down and the char- 

 coal housed. 



The piling of the wood being completed, cover it equally all 

 over with the turf which i3 close at hand ready to be U3ed ; 

 place the grass side downwards, and on the top of it a layer of 

 Bif ted soil from 1 { to 2 inches in depth. 



Having done this, take out of the centre of the pile the smooth, 

 perpendicular piece of wood, and deposit some light combus- 

 tible material, in which a quantity of congreve matches have 

 been mixed, on the top of the dry wood in the centre, by letting 

 it drop down the hole out of which the wood was taken. Set 

 fire to it by casting a few live embers upon it, and when it has 

 caught fire feed it with a small quantity of wood, and then 

 close up the hole with a little turf, so as not to allow the fire to 

 escape. Afterwards take a rod sufficiently long to reach to the 

 centre of the pile, and with it perforate the sides, letting it run 

 to near the centre. By these perforations a ventilation will be 

 created that may be regulated so as to keep the fire equally 

 burning throughout the whole of the pile. As the fire con- 

 tinues to burn, it will require to be fed occasionally with suit- 

 able material. This must be done by uncovering the open 

 space in the centre which was left for the purpose, and care- 

 fully letting down the fuel with which to feed it, and then 

 covering up the orifice as before. 



The fire in its progress will consume certain parts of the 

 turf and soil which serve as an external covering to the pile, 

 and also to keep the fire smouldering, instead of issuing in 

 flames, which is a point in the process worthy of being noticed 



by those persons who wish to have good charcoal with little 

 loss of material. Therefore, on the first indication of the fire 

 coming through to the surface, in whatever part of the pile it 

 may be, immediately cover the place with turf and sifted soil, 

 which must be always at command. 



The length of time it takes to burn wood into charcoal varies 

 according to the softness or hardness of it. Oak takes the 

 longest, and is generally thought to make the best charcoal, and 

 on that account it is to be preferred to any other kind. 



Now, if the pile, during its burning, be properly attended to, 

 the loss of material will be trifling. The refuse or ashes are, I 

 consider, amongst the best articles that enter the kitchen garden 

 for top-dressing the beds of Turnips, Carrots, Parsnips, Dwarf 

 Beans, &e. ; and for first early Potatoes, either mixed with any 

 other kind of manure or alone, they are equal, if not superior, to 

 anything I have used. — B. B., near Halifax. 



NOTES AND GLEANINGS. 

 The Change m Fruits Produced et a Different Cli- 

 mate has been long since noted, but so decided an alteration 

 as that recorded as a result in the experimental garden of the 

 Victoria Horticultural Society is unusual. The report says : — 

 "The recorded observations of those residing in a climate like 

 that of England are far from reliable as a guide to growers in 

 this climate, and numerous illustrations might be given of this. 

 Several of the Pears grown in England, and reported upon as 

 merely ' stewing ' Pears, are found here to be melting and 

 delicious dessert varieties ; while many of the Apples which 

 are characterised by English authorities as of no special merit 

 are so changed by climate as to be among our most valuable 

 varieties." 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN garden. 



While the present cold weather continues, little can be 

 done that has not been recommended in former calendars. 

 Trench all spare ground, run the hoe between the rows of all 

 crops that are above ground, and attend to the destruction of 

 snails and slugs. Sow a little Red Beet, but not much, as it 

 will very likely run to seed; also, a few Dwarf Kidney Beans 

 in a warm corner ; these will require shelter for a short time 

 when coming up. Make the principal sowing of favourite 

 sorts of Broccoli to stand the winter. A sowing of the dwarf 

 Hardy Bussian made a fortnight hence, often bears frost better 

 than that sown earlier. Sow a little Cape Broccoli and Cauli- 

 flower in the open ground. The Celery sown early in boxes 

 will soon want pricking out. The old plan is very good — viz., 

 some very rotten and mellow dung on a sound bottom. On 

 this the plants, pricked out 3 inches apart, will produce many 

 fibres, and will remove with the trowel in balls with a very 

 trifling amount of check. The chief reason why Celery bolts is 

 sudden luxuriance succeeded by sudden checks. Sow a little 

 Hamburgh Parsley and some Purslane. Bampion beds may 

 now be sown ; a light sandy soil suits this in common with 

 most of the Campanula family. 



fruit garden. 



The disbudding of Peach and Apricot trees must be com- 

 menced forthwith, by removing all the foreright wood shoots 

 and a portion of those on the lower side of each shoot ; also, 

 as blossom buds are very numerous this year, it will be proper 

 to take off a portion of these where ill placed. Keep a sharp 

 look out for the aphis on the young shoots ; these should be 

 syringed with tobacco water as soon as the insect is perceived. 

 After high winds, fresh-planted trees in the open quarters 

 should be finally looked over, and the earth pressed firmly 

 about them. As Peach and Nectarine trees become older and 

 acquire a full complement of wood, according to the space 

 allotted to them, it will be found necessary to disbud with some 

 severity, in order that the trees may be kept in a healthy frnit- 

 bearing condition, and not weakened by being crowded with 

 too much wood ; therefore, encourage only the young shoot 

 nearest the bas6 of the fruit-bearing shoot ; but as the terminal 

 shoot will be necessary for the proper maturation of the fruit, 

 it must be closely stopped at the last thinning, and any at- 

 tempt at growth afterwards must be carefully removed without 

 injuring the leaves. As soon as the fruit is gathered, it is 

 best to remove the shoots which have been stopped, down to 

 the young ones, which are greatly strengthened thereby, and it 

 also exposes the young wood more to the influence of the sun 

 at a season when the exposure is most needed for ripening it. 



