JOUBNAJj OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ Jane SO, 1870. 



Ville de St. Denis, Madame Boll, Madame Clemence Joigneanx, Mar- 

 guerite de St. Amand, Vicomtesse deVezins. Bliuth and White: Madame 

 Knorr, Baroness Rothschild, Duchesse d'Orleans, Caroline de Sansal, 

 Abel Grand, Baronne deMaynard, Louise Darzens. Bourbon. — Acidalie, 

 Baron Gonella, and Souvenir de Malmaison. China.— Mrs. Bosanquet. 

 Tea Roses.— Devoniensis, Souvenir d'Elise— the two finest, Madame 

 Willennoz, Souvenir d'un Ami, Sombreuil, Madame Margottin, Adrienne 

 Ohristophle, Monplaiser, Marechal Niel, Vicomtesse de Cazes. Tea 

 Noisettes.— Lamarque, Solfaterre, Triomphe de Rennes, Gloire de 

 Dijon, and Celine Foreetier. The above are the £Ute. They are free- 

 bloomers, and hardy for their families. The following Hybrid Perpetuals 

 are new and promising: — Marquise de Mortemart, silvery blush, very 

 fine; Albion, scarlet; Marquise de Castellane, cerise; Edouard Morren, 

 rich rose; and Souvenir de Monsieur Poiteau, soft rose. Instead of buy- 

 ing heaps of "varieties without variation," buy numbers of really good 

 sorts. Begin with a hundred each of Charles Lefebvre and Jules Mar- 

 gottin, the two finest and best of the Hybrid Perpetual Roses.— W, F. 

 Radclytfe. 



Rose Leaves Destroyed by Catehpillae3 (A. B.).— There is no 

 remedy like hand-picking, going over the plants two or three times 

 a-week, and picking off all that can be found. They are usually con- 

 cealed between the leaves, or hidden in the folds of a curled leaf ; wher- 

 ever you find two leaves stuck together, or others folded or curled up 

 closely, if yon open them you will find a caterpillar, or if you take them 

 between the finger and thumb it will serve the same purpose. Of course 

 the insect must be destroyed by crushing. 



Equisetum (E. R. P.).— This weed only grows in soils where there is an 

 excess of moisture. Draining the soil will extinguish it. 



Cauliflowers Dying off (Clericus).— From your description we think 

 your plants are going off from ambury or club-root ; though it does not as 

 regards the Cauliflower cause the root stem to club, as in the Cabbage 

 and Turnip, yet ambury, or rather the grub causing it, destroys the 

 root stem, and the plants die. It is very prevalent this Beason, owing 

 no doubt to the dry weather. There is no remedy. Soot and charcoal 

 have been suggested as preventives, but we gave a dressing of the former 

 this year, and have lost nearly all the first crop, plants in the seed beds 

 not escaping. Lime we have proved equally ineffectual, but gas lime, 

 twelve bushels per acre, spread on the surface and pointed in with a 

 spade prior to planting or sowing, is the most effectual remedy known. 

 The old gardeners made a thick puddle of soot and lime with water, so 

 as to adhere, and in that they dipped the roots and stems before planting, 

 and so dressed the plants mostly escaped. Planting in ground not 

 recently occupied with any of the BraBsica family is the best preventive. 

 Pear Tree Fruiting Irregularly {Idem).— The cause of the Pea* 1 

 bearing fruit at the ends of the branches only, is the spurs on the other 

 parts are too weak from being too crowded, or deprived of support by 

 the growth of wood from their bases or near these. The only remedy is 

 to thin them out if very close together, and keep the shoots well and 

 closely pinched throughout the summer, so as to encourage the growth 

 of the spurs, and by the exposure of them to light and air fruit buds may 

 be secured, and then the fruiting will be more general throughout the 

 tree. 



Tank in Fernery (T. P. H.).~ To have plants, yon will need to put in 

 about a foot of soil— strong loam is most suitable ; and then plant 

 Vallisneria spiralis, and Richardia a-thiopica in the centre, the former 

 around it, but in about 1 foot of water.. If filled with pond or river 

 water, the bottom of the tank or the soil covered with about an inch of 

 gravel, gold fish ought to live in it. 



Cheery Tree Infested with Black Aphis (H. F.).— There is no insect 

 so destructive to the Cherry as this. Tobacco water is the most effectual 

 remedy, and it is most economically applied by dipping the ends of the 

 shoots in the tobacco water. If five gallons of water be added to one 

 gallon of the tobacco liquor of the shops, it will not injure the foliage. 

 Tobacco water may be made by pouring half a gallon of boiling water on 

 an ounce of tobacco, covering it up, letting it Ptand until cool, and then 

 atrainiDg through a hair sieve or muslin bag. Your best plan, since the 

 leaves are destroyed, will be to prune or take off the points of the shoots 

 of the current year, and Byringe the tree frequently overhead, especially 

 during the evenings of hot days. 



Nectarine Leaves— Pears {F. Wilson),— The leaves are blistered, 

 which is caused by exposure to night^frosts and bright sunshine. Pick 

 off the leaves. No one could tell the cause of the Pear's dying from such 

 black dried-up specimens. 



Heating a Small Greenhouse (Poplar).— By all means use a com- 

 mon iron stove for your little greenhouse, and never mind the prophets 

 of evil if you attend to three things— Do not make the stove too hot, so 

 you had better have one with a fireplace standing free in the centre, or 

 lined with fire-brick. Have a pipe to go from the stove out of the house, 

 say through the roof, to take off the results of combustion, and then by 

 using good coke or cinders you may laugh at all prepared fuel. Thirdly, 

 Have a stove with a flat top on which you can place a vessel of water. 



Lady Downe's Grapes SHRrvELLiN3 (A Young Gardener).— There is 

 not a sufficient supply of sap to them; water the roots copiously with 

 tepid weak manure water twice a-week. 



Fruit Trees for Orchard House (An Amateur),— We have no faith 

 in your lifting and replanting fine pyramid Pears now, be it by night 

 or by day. We should imagine the author you refer to, who counsels 

 night planting, must have been moonstruck. Of course, such a thing 

 might be done, but not under ordinary management. For instance: we 

 took out of the ground some Roses in May and potted them, and they 

 are in good bloom; but, then, they had more care than most likely you 

 could give your Pears. Failing to move these trees now, we do not see, 

 in the second place, why you should defer until next spring building 

 your house in the spnee occupied by them. You could transplant these 

 trees by the middle of October, and a little shading or syringing of the 

 tops would make them all right, and you could build before winter, which 

 would be better than doing it early in spring. Then, again, as to the 

 pyramid trees, of which yon say you have sufficient to fill the house, 

 why should you talk of saving time by potting them in November, and thus 

 have them ready to go into the house in the second winter? We would 

 keep them well stubbed-in all this summer, so as to encourage fruit buds, 

 give them enough of water at the roots to encourage healthy growth, but 

 not extra luxuriance ; then, as you mean to have them in pots, we would 



raise and pot from the middle to the end of October, plunge the pots in 

 the ground, or, better still, in a very mild hotbed, cover the pots all over 

 with littery mulch all the winter, and keep the birdB from the buds early 

 in spring. As soon as your house is finished, or before the buds swell 

 much, take your plants into it. You will find the pots will be full of roots 

 before the buds break much. We once had some Cherries towards the 

 end of March— nice little plants with flower buds— raised out of the 

 ground, and sent in a neat package ; we potted them, Bunk the pots in a 

 mild hotbed in a shady place out of doorB, netted the plants from birds, 

 syringed the tops to keep them cool, moved the pots into an orchard 

 house in May, and gathered a fine lot of Cherries in June. By potting 

 in the autumn jou would have several months' advantage. As your trees 

 are so good, we would have a return next season. 



Vines not Breaking (Reader).— Be so good as refer to " Doing3 of the 

 Last Week," page 428, where reference is made to Vines that were planted 

 inside a house, and refused to flourish because the roots were dry, though 

 the surface soil was moist enough. With fair treatment your Vines 

 ought to have broken well. However strong young Vines are, we do not 

 consider it advisable to leave much wood on them the first season after 

 planting. We dn not know what your object was in leaving these stout 

 rods from 4 to 6 feet in length. In many cases you would require that 

 length to reach the base of your rafter or glass. If so, well ; but then 

 we would have removed the most of the buds, leaving only a few terminal 

 ones. Manv of our readers seem slow to comprehend the great difference 

 between a Vine with a strong cane kept in a pot. and a similar Vine 

 planted out and intended to flourish for years. Very likely if you had 

 kept your Vines in the pots you would have had free growth from them 

 and fruit this year, but then they would have been of little use after- 

 wards. When "you planted tbem out, and especially so late, in a cool 

 house, you deranged the whole correlation between roots and tops, do 

 it how you would, for future growth much depends on the mode of 

 planting. We lately saw a number of good Vines when obtained, that 

 went on but poorly. They had been put merely into a hole, with the soil 

 squeezed to the sides of the ball. Now, in planting such Vines m a 

 torpid state as yours seem to have been, we would have carefully reduced 

 the ball— in fact, got rid of most of the earth carefully, and laid out the 

 roots properly, instead of having them cramped up in a heap. We 

 would then have watered tbem with water at about 90', covered with 

 dryish soil, and mulched or used other means to keep heat, cold, and 

 excessive moisture out. Success would, to a great extent, depend on 

 getting the roots at work rather in advance of the swelling of the buds. 

 TheBe precautions borne in mind, it matters not when you plant a ^ in ®7" 

 autumn, winter, spring, or summer. As an extreme case, we planted this 

 year Bonie Cherrv and Peach trees out of doors in May, and they have 

 done well. They had been laid aside, and were rather dry ; the roots 

 were soaked a few minutes in water at about 85 \ they were then nicely 

 laid out and packed, and water at the above temperature was applied, 

 leaving a space of fully 3 inches of dry soil, and a little mulching to^ go 

 over all. In some hot davs the tops were SYriDged, but no more watering 

 was given to the roots, the drv earth and the little mulching kept dry- 

 ness out and moisture in. A little of the same care would, we are sure, 

 have made the Vines all right. As stated above, if there were a necessity 

 for a 6-foot rod, it would have been as well to have disbudded it. One 

 strong leading shoot, and, say a couple of short side shoots, would in 

 general be better the first season after planting than leaving, say, 8 

 dozen buds to break. Nevertheless, we strongly suspect that the mode 

 of planting, or the watering, must have been at fault when there has 

 been such a defective breaking of the buds. Now, as to the two ques- 

 tions. The buds that are burst, but do not make wood, are not likely t 

 show fruiting shoots next season unless they are well ripened at their 

 base, and there is more growth altogether in the Vine ; and secondly, the 

 plump buds now, if they refuse to break, will most likely refuse to breaK 

 at all next season, and therefore will not be likely to give you either wood 

 or fruit growth. 



Stopping a Young Vine (Poplar).— If the shoot of your Vine is only 

 2 feet long, we would not stop it ; it will be time enough to nip oat the 

 point when double that length. The two Laterals 12 inches long had 

 better be stopped— say to two joint?, and in autumn be shortened to one 

 joint, and ultimately removed. The shortening of the laterals will throw 

 more growth into the leader, but encourage laterals near the base all the 

 same. , , ,_ 



Proposed Early Vinery (H. A. R.) — We like on the whole the pro- 

 posed arrangement of combining earlv vinery, Cucumber house, Rhu- 

 barb, Sea-kale, and, we might add, Mushroom house, which would do ad- 

 mirably in the underground department. These things, however, strike 

 us at the first glance. First, the flooring between the house and what 

 we would call the heated cellar, is scarcely substantial enough. The 

 wooden beams would require to be strong to support such a border, and 

 the thin slates we fear would be too thin. We think iron tubes, such as 

 iron pipes 3 inches in diameter, would be better, and at least as cheap, 

 and we would have stout slate or flag, or even wood pitched ; but at aU 

 events, we would have the floor waterproofed, with means of taking away 

 the extra drainage from the border, without falling indiscriminately over 

 the growth beneath. Such dripping would injure Sea-kale, Rhubarb, and 

 Mushrooms. In vour case we would use 4-inch pipes, but two of them, 

 instead of four, we would consider to be sufficient for the cellar, lne 

 hipped roof on the east side is merely a matter of taste and convenience. 

 Your house will be warmer by having the wall on the east side, but, of 

 course, you would not have so much light. We approve of the latticed 

 path, but if you intended to have pots in your border, we would confine 

 the lattice work to the pathways. Tots of large &ize set on or m the 

 ground, occasion less trouble than those>et on a stage or trellis. Cu- 

 cumbers in pots or boxes will do admirably set on the pipes, but there 

 should be something between them, as a pan, to prevent the dry heat 

 acting at once upon them. Lastly, you can do as you propose— have 

 Vines against the back wall, and over the roof, and Cucumbers in front ; 

 but if the house were ours we would divide it, and have one division for 

 early Vines, either all planted out or partly planted out and partly m 

 pots, and another division we would appropriate to Cucumbers. When 

 the roof was covered nothing would do much good on the floor, but when 

 the roof was free, and for the winter, if Cucumbers and Vines were not 

 forced, then the bouse might be filled with other things. We base the 

 above advice on the simple fact, that as Grapes approach maturity they 

 require a drier atmosphere than would be suitable for Cucumbers, and 

 Cucumbers require a higher temperature at firBt than would suit Vines 

 breaking and swelling their buds. With two divisions instead of one 



