5i8 Journal of Agri culture. [lo Aug., 1909^ 



of faulty cellar management. In the case of sherry, however, the growth 

 of f-or is encouraged and regulated. The means bv which ihis is done 

 will be considered later ; at the present stage we shall confine ourselves to 

 the fact that the develo-pmcnt of what 7ve may call the sherry taste is en- 

 tirely due to the growth of this fungus filn. and proceed to define the 

 terms bv which the leading t\pes of unl>lended, sherries are known in the 

 bodegas of Jerez. 



According to whether flor has been present or absent, we mav divide 

 all sherries into two great subdivisions. Tf the alcoholic strength of the 

 wine is under 25 i per cent, of proof spirit the growth of fior is possible, 

 and the sherry taste develops. If. howexer, the alcoholic strength is over- 

 27 per cent, the growth of fior is no longer possible, and no such develop- 

 ment takes place. 



We can thus divide all sherries into two main divisions, represented by 

 the following wines: — 



I St. Fino Type. — A wine which in its earl\ vears was reared with a 

 film of fior on its surface, and possesses a pronounced ether taste and 

 bouquet. This particular character is often described in Victoria by the 

 term M anzanilla ; a not verv appropriate word, as it should be confined to 

 the rather light wines of a well-defined portion of the district. 



2nd. Oloroso Type. — A wane, which from the completion of its first 

 fermentation, has contained, too much alcohol for the growth of flor on its- 

 surface, and from which the characteristic ether ta.ste is absent. 



Fino Sherries. 



Each of these two groups includes several distinct wines. U anzanilla, 

 for example, belongs to the fino class. As this term has been often u.sed 

 in Australia, and not always quite appropriately, it will be well to here 

 describe its true meaning. Manzanilla is the name given to the wine- 

 grown in the neighbourhood of San Lucar de Barrameda, which town is 

 situated 18 miles north-west from Jerez. Here the soil is sandy, and for 

 this reason these wines are lighter, both as regards alcoholic strength and 

 body, than true sherries, but thev pos.sess the characteristic sherry taste in 

 a very high degree. 



The making of wines of the fino tvpe is a comparativelv recent introduc- 

 tion to Jerez, and is the outcome of the gradual change in taste in sherry in 

 England. Sixty years ago Jerez only produced wines of the oloroso and' 

 allied types. The solera system of maturation, which will be described in 

 detail later, and without which the methodical utilization of the fior fungus 

 would, .scarcelv be possible, had not then been introduced, though it had 

 been in use since \&x\ remote times at San Lucar, and also at jNIontilla, 

 about ICO miles away to the north-east. A manzanilla is thus essentially 

 a fino type, but being a special variety of it, the shorter and more compre- 

 hensive term can more aptlv be u.sed to describe wines of sherrv character.* 



Amontillado is a term familiar to any one who has the slightest know- 

 ledge of sherrv, and yet the exact meaning of the word is not generally 

 understood. It must be considered in connexion with the fino group, 

 though it is rather a distinct tvpe. for all amontillados have commenced 

 bv being finos. An amontillado is nothing less than a very old fino. 

 which has entered on a second stage of its development. 



* How the word Mnnznnilla r-aine to be iiscd to describe this juuticiUar wine is not clear. Literally 

 it means chamomile, and also a little apiile, npitlin of which iinaniiifrs conveys much information. The 

 bitter taste of chamoniilo can scarcely be implied, fur other sorts of sherry are di«tinctl\- more liitter than 

 the wine "f San I. near. There is a s'nall town, to niile< north ■>f San Lucar, called Manzanilla, but it docs- 

 not appear to huxc anything' to do with the naniini;- of Ibis wine. 



