lo Nov., 1909-] Sherry: Its Making and Rearing. 727 



almost entirely displaced French brandy. The soil of Jerez, like that 

 of Cognac, is exceedingly rich in lime, though the two places are in 

 widely different geological formations. 



The establishment of this industry is largely the result of accident. In 

 1866 one of the large wine merchants (Pedro Domecq) receiyed an order 

 for 500 butts of fortifying spirit. This was distilled at too low a strength 

 to be fit for the purpose, and remained in the store of the distillers for 

 some years, during which time it improyed so much that the production of 

 brandy on a large scale was successfully tried. The photograph reproduced 

 in last issue (page 627) shows the distillery at Gonzalez, Byass and Com- 

 pany's bodegas, and will giye some idea of the importance of this modern 

 industry. In this are shown, to the right, a still with w-ine heater of the 

 type used in Charentes (France). This has been superseded by a type with 

 lenticular dephlegmators to be seen further down the room. Brandy, in 

 Jerez, is stored and matured on the Solera system. 



Casks and their Seasoning. 



Sherry is almost exclusi\ely made, reared, and shipped in butts ; casks 

 of other sizes are unusual. The sizes of these vary som.ewhat, according to 

 the purposes for which they are used, mainly between no and 120 gallons. 

 Occasional larger ones are to be met with, such as the Bota Gorda of 130 to 

 140 gallons, and the Bocox, with a capacity of over 150 gallons. Hogs- 

 heads and quarter-casks are seldom to be seen. 



The seasoning of the casks is of considerable importance with wine of 

 a delicate nature such as sherry, which is easily injured by foreign flavours. 

 As in Oporto. Baltic oak is considered superior to American ; owing to its 

 higher price, however, the latter is now chiefly u.sed, but before being filled 

 with a high class wine the casks are very carefully prepared. One of the 

 best methods is to allow them to remain full of cold water for several 

 months, with occasional changes, after which they are filled for a few 

 weeks with cheap though souud wine. The ammonia treatment is also 

 largely used. Steam is blown through a small quantity of strongest liquid 

 ammonia (2 quarts to a butt) by a pipe, reaching the bottom of the cask. 

 This is provided with a special attachment, fitting tightly at the bunghole 

 so that the steam and ammonia may together exert their influence, under a 

 pressure of about 15 lbs. to the inch, for an hour. This treatment, followed 

 by thorough washing and seasoning with cheaper wine, is said to entirely 

 remove all objectionable flavour from American oak. 



Such are the points which .struck me as being of greatest importance in 

 connexion with the unique w'ine known as sherry during a three weeks' stav 

 in the district of its production. From what has been stated above it will 

 be seen that sherry is a high class wine of very distinct character, resulting 

 in the first place from soil, climate, and varieties grown, but in even 

 greater degree from, curious and very special methods of making and 

 rearing — methods which considerably increase the cost of production, but in 

 connexion with which nothing can be found to support the charges of 

 un wholesomeness so often made against this wine a few years ago. 



Fashion, however, seems to show a tendency to favour sherry once 

 more, a change certainly merited by the magnificent wines, large stocks of 

 which are still held in Jerez and the surrounding dsitrict. 



