Journal of Agriculture. [ii April, 1910. 



In erecting, the gates should be hung to posts independently of the fence. 

 A gate post with wire strained to it will never prove satisfactory. Between 

 the posts a sill log should be set, chocked into each post and just at or a 

 little below the surface of the ground. It serves to keep the posts fixed 

 in position, and is necessary if it is intended to wire-net the gate against 

 rabbits. The gudgeons should be so put in that the gates swing back clear 

 of the posts, leaving the latter to stand any collisions with waggons or 

 implements, which they are better fitted to do than the light gates. The 

 catch consists simplv of a piece of 3 in. x i in. batten, sufficiently long to- 

 extend from one angle brace to the other, between them and the double 

 stiles, and resting on one of the rails. This catch stiffens up the gate so- 

 that it is practically one panel. More or less rails may be put in. If 

 fewer than shown, wire-netting stretched over the gate makes it proof against 

 sheep. In positions where the work is light, the top and bottom rails 

 only, with wire-netting between, will be sufficient. Soft wood is, on the- 

 whole, preferable to hard wood, as it is about as strong and is considerably 

 lighter. The gates shown weigh about 70 lbs. each in hardwood, and 

 about 50 lbs. in soft wood. The projecting ends of the rails at the falling: 

 stiles give room for adjustment when hanging. By the aid of a handsaw 

 they may be made come together as closely as desired, even if the gates are- 

 not hung quite true. Never put the angle braces running down from the 

 hanging to the falling stiles; always place them as shown in the drawing. 

 Keep the gates screwed up — once a year at fir.st, and less frequently after- 

 wards. Do not strain wire to your gate posts and expect the gates to hang' 

 true. Gates are better painted both to preserve them and for the more 

 ready identification at night time. Cold water paint, Washington white- 

 wash, &c., are better than nothing. 



General Notes. 



The holes in the iK)Sts should be bored after they are put in the- 

 ground so that the wire mav run true. 



Straining mav be done t>v any of the ordinary means though any one 

 of the patent strainers working in the middle of the span between the- 

 straining posts is recommended. 



Should straining be done at the post itself, it will lie found advantageous 

 to bore double holes and put a loop through about 10 ft. in length to which 

 the ordinary wire is tied. 



The strainer should have two holes to catch the double wire, and fasten- 

 ing, whether permanently or temporarily, is done by twisting the strainer 

 around, thus twisting the double wire and saving anv trouble in wedging. 



The extra cost involved in buying a special wire will be repaid in the 

 extra life of the fence. The ordinary wire in the market is at times of 

 inferior quality and will not stand restraining. 



Galvanized wire is advisable with wire-netted fences, and in all cases- 

 near the sea or in swampy areas. 



Always start unwmding the wire from the centre of the coil ; there is 

 less chance of kinks and tangles. 



The barbed wire is essential to prevent heavy stock slackening the wires 

 by bearing them down. Paddocks with valuable young stock running in 

 them should have rails on top instead. 



Woven wire fences are largely used in the States ; but have not 

 sufficiently proved themselves here to warrant their adoption. Besides,. 

 they do not fit in well with rablnt-proof fencing. 



