8o4 Journal of Agriculture. [lo Dec, 1910^ 



Vegetable Garden. 



All weeds must be hoed out of the beds, and if these are at all abundant 

 they may either be dug in as green manure, or they may be used for mulch- 

 ing the tomato, melon, marrow, and such plants. Tomato plants should 

 be staked, all lateral growths pinched out, and they should be now well 

 manured and well w^atered. If not manured, a good weekly watering 

 with liquid manure is necessary. 



Asparagus beds should be allowed to mature their growths, and all 

 cutting should now cease. A top dressing of manure will be helpful to 

 the crowns. 



Potato and onion beds will require constant hoeings, and it may be 

 necessary to break down the tops of the onions, so as to prevent a toO' 

 vigorous growth of the top, or the formation of flower heads, and so as to 

 strengthen and increase the value of the bulbs. 



The long runners and the weak lateral growths of plants of the melon 

 family should be pinched back, and liberal supplies of water .should be 

 given. 



French beans, peas, lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, &c., should now be 

 sown, the beds being made moist and cool for the planting. 



Flower Garden. 



As frequently emphasized in the "' Garden Notes," surface cultivation 

 is very necessary at this time of the year. To secure a constant earth 

 mulch, as friable as possible, should be the aim of every gardener during 

 the hot months of the year. After every watering, or rainfall, the surface 

 should receive a good stirring. 



The season has been a very favourable one for roses, and the flowers 

 have been produced in very fine profusion. To add to their perfection, 

 the annual visit of Thrips was very much later than usual, these insects 

 delaying their appearance generally until November. For the next two 

 months the roses should have a rest from blooming, so that the autumn crop 

 of flowers may be produced as fine as possible. Water may be almost 

 wholly excluded during this period, provided that the beds or plants be 

 earth-mulched, or mulched with .some light and non-stimulating material, 

 such as grass or straw. 



Late spring-flowering bulbs should now be lifted, and stored in a cool 

 dry place. It is advisable to allow the bulbs to become dry before storing 

 them away, by leaving them on the surface, and shaded, for a day. 



All annuals, biennials, and herbaceous plants which are approaching 

 the period of bloom should receive frequent supplies of water ; and a 

 mulching of well-rotted manure will help them greatly. 



Dahlias .should now be planted out, making two or three plantings 

 extending to the end of the month. The young plants should be firmly 

 planted in the .soil ; and. in order to prevent overcrowding when the plants 

 are full grown, the plants .should be spaced at least 3 feet apart each way. 



Chrysanthemums will now require considerable attention ; the weak and 

 unnecessary shoots should be removed, and the remaining growths well 

 staked. All side shoots should be removed as the plants mature. The 

 soil must be kept cool and moist, but excessive or even abundant water 

 must be avoided until the plant has well grown. 



Sowings of seeds for late flowers may now be made, especially of .such 

 plants as Zinnias, Asters, and winter-flowering Stocks. 



