May 31, 1877. ] 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



407 



are not half bo much grown as they ought to be, forming as 

 they do sheets of beautiful flowers. Pansies, of which we need 

 a good share, are now effective, especially Great Eastern, 

 Cliveden Blue, Enchantres?, Lothair; and Violas cornuta and 

 Perfection. Sedum acre aureum is a telling plant for edging at 

 this season. Allium paradoxam and Leucojum vernum are fine 

 spring flowers, and Aubrietiaa in their various colours are 

 indispensable. 



My failures are among the hardy annuals. Alyssnm mariti- 

 mnm is miserable, Saponariacalabrica little better; Silene com- 

 paota. White Candytuft, and some of the Wallflowers " have 

 proved fickle and inconstant." — Onward. 



THE DOUBLE-FLOWERING CHERRY. 



We have no more beautiful flowering tree in our garden than 

 the double-flowering Cherry — one specimen in particular. It 

 covers a circle of ground 12 yards in diameter, and at the 

 present time is profusely covered with its beautiful white 

 flowers. It would be impossible to place a finger anywhere 

 along the branches and not touch a flower. There is only one 

 drawback to its general acceptance, and that is its flat habit of 

 growth. As a rule the branches grow out almost horizontally, 

 leaving the centre of the tree hollow and flat; and this is a 

 form of growth neither graceful nor pleasing in a tree. A tree 

 should be an object of beauty at all times, even when leafless ; 

 bnt the flat mode of growth of this Cherry robs it of this ele- 

 ment of beauty. Notwithstanding that, planters would do 

 well to make a note of it, and not neglect to add a few trees of 

 it when making up a collection of ornamental trees. — X. 



CROTONS AND DRAC^NAS. 



The following paper has been read at the Darlington Gar- 

 deners' Institute by Mr. Calvert of Woodburu : — 



In consequence of the great and increasing popularity of 

 these two classes of plants, both for house decoration and ex- 

 hibition purposes, I think a few remarks on the more modern 

 varieties and their cultivation will not be out of place. The 

 old varieties of both are deservedly held in great esteem by all 

 growers, but I think the palm is due to those of later intro- 

 duction. All the Crotons and the majority of the Dracaenas 

 require a stove temperature, which should be 75° at night and 

 80° by day, with sun 85' during summer months ; in winter 

 70° at night and 75' by day; but if the weather is severe in 

 winter the temperature should be allowed to fall to (i5° at 

 night and 70" by day. The soil for potting should consist of 

 one-half good turfy loam, the other half equal parts of peat 

 and leaf soil, with a sprinkling of silver sand. If well-decayed 

 dung in a dryish state is procurable a little may be added. In 

 giving large shifts a fewhandfuls of crocks and charcoal should 

 be used amongst the soil, and artificial manures may also be 

 used with advantage. The loam and peat should be carefully 

 pulled to pieces by the hands, and the leaf soil used in a rough 

 state. The above-mentioned soil will suit both Crotons and 

 Dracjenas. 



The Croton is propagated by seed and cuttings, the last- 

 named plan being mostly adopted. In selecting cuttings 

 choose the strongest and best-coloured about <1 inches long, 

 out off two or three of the lower leaves, and place in the centre 

 of a 3-ineh pot. Plunge them into a bottom heat of 85° in a 

 propagating pit, and they will root freely. Cuttings may be 

 taken at any time of the year. After the cuttings are well 

 rooted give them a shift into 6-ineh pots, and remove them 

 into the stove. Arrange the plants so that they get every ray 

 of light and sunshine, giving no heed to bottom heat, as I do 

 not think it is of any consequence. After the plants are fairly 

 Btaited into growth keep shifting and staking. As the roots 

 reach the sides of the pots do not allow them to become 

 " matted," as it retards their growth, and I do not think it in 

 any way assists to develope their variegation. The varieties 

 of the Croton are very numerous, and some of them, in my 

 estimation, almost useless. My selection of six varieties would 

 comprise Johannis, Veitchii, Ilookeri, Majesticum, Weismauni, 

 and Queen Victoria. The last-named is a new one being sent 

 out by Mr. Williams, and from what I have seen of it I have 

 every reason to believe that it will gain as high a place among 

 Crotons as Queen Victoria has gained among her subjects. 

 Special care must be taken in arranging the plants, as I am 

 fully convinced that it is the want of light which causes so 

 many badly-coloured Crotons. The plants ought never to be 

 shaded. 



The Dracfena is propagated by seed and cuttings, the latter 

 plan being mostly preferred. The cuttings will root if treated 

 the same as advised for Crotons. The stem and strong roots 

 also root freely if they are cut into pieces about half an inch 

 long and placed in a shallow pan, covering lightly with soil. 

 Plunge the pans into bottom heat, and water lightly until the 

 tops appear. If specimen plants get " leggy " they may be 

 propagated by "ringing," which is done by splitting a pot in 

 halves and placing round the stem where it is wanted to root. 

 The stem should be out through the centre, and a wedge- 

 shaped piece of charcoal inserted to keep it open. The pot 

 should be securely fastened, which may be done by placing a 

 stake on each side and tying together with string. After the 

 pot is safely fixed place a tew pieces of crock in the bottom, 

 and fill up with turfy loam and peat, adding a sprinkling of 

 silver sand. The plants should stand in the stove, where at 

 first they present an unsightly appearance ; but it will be fully 

 compensated for by the symmetrical and well-coloured heads, 

 which root in about six weeks. I sometimes cut the stem 

 half way through, and I think they root quicker when they 

 are so cut. After the cuttings are well rooted give a liberal 

 shift, using the compost previously advised. If specimen plants 

 are wanted keep shifting as the roots reach the sides of the 

 pot, and give liberal shifts. If a number of plants are wanted 

 for decorative purposes, and suflioient room cannot be found 

 in the stove, they may be placed in a pit, with a flow and 

 return pipe in it, for the summer months, and returned to the 

 stove to fill up gaps left by Caladiums, etc. Dracaenas Cooperi, 

 terminalis, excelsa, Shepherdi, stricta, gracilis, and Guilfoylei 

 are amongst the best for decorative purposes. The exhibition 

 sorts are very numerous. Baptisti, youagi,amabili8, Shepherdi, 

 metallica, and excelsa have held the foremost places, but I 

 expect to see them eclipsed by Mr. Wills's new varieties. 



The stove varieties of the Dracaena will require shading from 

 the direct rays of the sun during the summer months, or the 

 leaves will get burnt, which spoils the appearance of the plant ; 

 the shading ought only to be used when there is danger of 

 burning, as the plants colour in proportion to the amount of 

 light they receive. The syringe should be used freely, or red 

 spider will soon make an inroad on both Crotons and Dracaenas, 

 and it will disfigure them beyond reparation. The single jet 

 should be used on the syringe, and the stream broken by 

 placing the forefinger over it ; carefully wet all the under side 

 of the foliage, as that (in most cases) is the home of the red 

 spider, and if he is repeatedly wetted he will soon change his 

 residence. Thrips, scale, and mealy bug sometimes attack 

 them, and they should be removed with the sponge and soap 

 water. 



The greenhouse varieties of Dracienas are not very numerous. 

 Australis, Veitchii, lineata, and cougesta are amongst the best. 

 They are very useful during the winter months for indoor and 

 conservatory decoration, and in the summer they may be used 

 for subtropical bedding. If used for subtropical bedding they 

 should be plunged iu their pots, carefully hiding them ; and I do 

 not think there is anything to be found which makes a better 

 centre plant or single specimen than a good Draceena australis. 



PORTRAITS OF PLANTS, FLOWERS, and FRUITS, 



Eestretia antennsfera. Nat. ord., Orchidaceoe. Linn., 

 Gynandria Diandria. — Flowers yellow, thickly spotted with 

 crimson. " R. antennifera was discovered by Humboldt on 

 the trunks of trees near Pasto, at an elevation of 'JOOO feet 

 (French), and it has since been found by several travellers 

 in different localities in New Grenada, between fJOOO and 

 10,500 feet, and in Venezuela. The plant flowered in the cool 

 Orchid house at Kew in January of the present year." — (Bot. 

 Mag., t. i;288 ) 



Callipdrdbia subedestata. Nat. ord., Amaryllidacc£6. 

 Linn., Hexandria Monogynia. — "This is a plant which has 

 been in English gardens for many years, and in the absence 

 of llowers has passed for Eucharia Candida. Lately it has 

 flowered at several places almost simultaneously, and it turns 

 out to be no Eucharis at all, but a near neighbour of the 

 Calliphruria Hartwegiana which was rgured in the "Botanical 

 Magazine" last year (tab. (5259). The present plant, however, 

 differs materially from C. Hartwegiana iu the filaments, in 

 which the toothing is sometimes entirely wanting, so that for 

 the boDanioal systematist it forms an awkward connecting link 

 between the tribes Amaryilideie and Paucratieic. The Eucharis 

 Candida, which was distributed by Jlr. William Bull in 187G, 

 and which was figured in his catalogue for that year, is the 



