May 81, 1877. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



Roses Dyikg (J. S. 0. il.).— Probably the roots became dry duringr removal, 

 and you did not prune the heads sufficiently closely. You cannot do more 

 than'keep the e^^U moist and remove all suckers and Briar bude as they appear 

 on the stems. I( the wood is not shrivelled do not destroy the bushes. 



Rose NOT Opening (E. S.).— We thiak alack of vigour is the cause of the 

 flowers of your Dachesse de Cavlua Rose not expanding. Tbe stem of the bud 

 sent is certainly weak and uuhealthy. "We think if you give more generous 

 treatment some of the later blooms will expand. Perhaps you did not prune 

 Bof&ciently close. 



Roses Blighted (J. S.).— The loives appear to have been injured by the 

 cold dull weather, in addition to which there are traces of black fungus. 

 Give the trees a thoroagh syringing with soot water— one peck of soot to 

 thirty gallons of water, fctirriug well up and adding 2 ozs. of soft soap to every 

 gallon. Strain before use, bo that nuy particles of dirt may not clog the 

 eyringe or engine. In addition to that afford liquid manure to the roots, and 

 if given a few degrees higher in temperature than that of the boU all the 

 better, yet not exceeding 10^ higher. 



Rabbits in a Gabden {Old Siihscribtr).— The only remedy against the 

 ravages of the rabbits is to fence the side that is open with wire netting 

 2 feet 6 inches high. Unless the space is very great the expense will not 

 be much. 



Management of Cannas [M. B.).— If the roots of your plants are fresh we 

 Bhould plant them out in June even if but little top growth was made. They 

 are not increased from cuttings but from seeds, soaking them in warm 

 water for twenty-four hours, and then suwing in brisk heat early in the 

 spring, growing the plants under glass for a time until they are large enough 

 to be planted out when the weather is suitable. In the autumn they should 

 be potted and kept moist until the foliage decays, then withholding water, 

 bat not permitting the soil to become dust-dry, placing them so as to be 

 secure from frost. Many Cannaa in the London parkin are left in the ground 

 all the winter, covering' the surface thickly with mauore. Thus managed 

 they grow luxuriantly year after year. If your plants are dead (which we 

 doubt) you had better sow some seed without any delay. 



Cabnations. Picotees. and Pinks (C. B.).— The Carnation has the marks 

 on its petals from the centre to the edge, and through the edge in flakes or 

 stripes of colour. The Picotee has its coloured mark only on the outer edge 

 of its petals. A Pink is altogether a smaller flower and plant. The centre 

 of each petal should be white surrounded with a coloured lacing, and beyond 

 this lacing a clear smooth edge of white. 



Arrangement of Flower Beds (Illiteracy). — We should prefer a dif- 

 ferent arrangement. Let the four corner circular beds remain, and between 

 ihem and of the same width form four oblong beds with semicircular end^, 

 and in the centre form a larger round bed. This simple arrangcoient would 

 be much more in keeping with the architecture of the houee than the design 

 you have submitted to us, and the five round and four oblong beds could be 

 effectively planted. Do not crowd the beds too much, but allow plenty of 

 lawn between them. 



Planting Asparagus and Seakale (West Coast). — You may now dig up 

 portions of the roots of Seakale and cut them into sets and plant them as 

 recently described in the Journal, but we should not advise yon to destroy your 

 old plantation so late in the season. Tou can obtain nets without destroying 

 or seriously iDJoring the old plants. Asparagus should be transplanted just 

 when growth is commencing in the spriog. It is generally too forward now 

 except in very late districts. The roots must not become dry during their 

 removal. Your other inquiry will be answered next week. 



iNETRrMENTS FOR DRESSING FLOWERS (R. J. L. H.).— Mr. Rudd states 

 that they can be procured from Mr. B. Simonite, Rough Bank, Shelheld, whose 

 instruments are the best ho has seen for the purpose. 



Adder's-tongce {Co«8(aH( ilfat/cr).— The botanical name is Ophioglossum 

 vulgatum. 



PsECDO Acacias (C. D. IT.).— The two trees are the same. Ask your 

 seedsman to sand what you require. If he has not the seed in stock he will 

 procure it for you. 



Propagating Coledses (S. J. TT.).— Cuttings strike readily at any period 

 of the year when they can be obtained, placing them in a propagating house 

 or hotbed, such as a Cucumbtr frame, where there is a bottom heat of 80^ 

 to 90^ and a top heat of not less than 70°. Tliey require to be inserted in 

 light sandy soil, kept moist, and shaded for about a week until roots are 

 emitted. There cannot he a better time than the present for inserting the 

 cuttings. 



Vine Leaves Scorched (J. A. H.). — We cannot perceive any signs of 

 fungus, but we should as a precautionary measure advise you to keep the 

 fttmospbere of the house a little drier, especially as you do not employ fire 

 heat. Had you used less moisture and perhaps more air the leaves of the 

 Vines would not have been bo sncculeat and prone to scorch. A sudden out- 

 burst of sun after a term of dull weather has promoted escessivo transpira- 

 tion — that is, the foliage of the Vines has given off moisture disproportiouate 

 to the supply by the roots. This implies also deficient root-action, which is 

 literally the root of the evil of which yon complain. As the temperature of 

 the soil increases new rootj will form with increased freedom; and io the 

 meantiire, if the scorching continues, sprinkle a little thin limewash on the 

 glasa with the syringe until the foliage can endure the full sun. Examine 

 the roots and see if they are healthy; if they are not working freely in the 

 soil we should renew it immediately after the crop has been cut in the 

 antomn. 



Plants Failing (A Yorkshire 7^■a'^?^).— Deficient heat and fumes from 

 the newly-painted pipes are probably the cause of the failures. 



Malformed Tulips IF. Frofhhnm).—lt is a most unusual occurrence that 

 many of your bulbs should producQ five flowers and that four of them 

 should be on one stalk 1 Yuu ask, What is the cauie and what the remedy ? 

 Probably a too rich soil is tho cause — we cannot suggest any other; if so, 

 place the manure at least 6 inches below the ground, and plant your bulbs in 

 ttirfy loam without any manure. 



Orchids for Cool Greenhouse (J. D.).— What are usually termed cool 

 Orchids are Masdevallias. Odontoglortsuma, &c., from the Andes of Peru and 

 the mountainous districts of New Grenada, but they require a temperature 

 of 45= to 5tr^ and will not do for a cool greenhouse. You must grow Cypri- 

 pediums acanle, Calceolus, pubescens, and spectabile ; Disa graudiflora, Orchis 

 foUosa, and a few other sorts. These are sure to do well. 



Allamanda nodilis not Flowering (Eight-yfnr.H Subscriber).— The best 

 treatment is to cat the plants back in the spring and grow them on in a 



temperature of 70° at night at this time of the year. Pinch the growths 

 once or twice during the season. Your plant may yet flower in August if you 

 give it a sufficiently high temperature. 



Selection of Begonias (Idem).— B. BoliviensiB, B. Chelsoni. B. Digs- 

 welliensis, B, fuchsioides, B. intermedia, B. nitida, and B. Wettoniensis. 



Planting Flower Beds (P(irrtf;o«l.— With the exception of btatiug that 

 you have Perillas and variegated Grass you name no other plants. The 

 Perillu we think will be too sombre in the position you assign for it. It 

 would be relieved by yellow Calceolarias. Golden Feather, or white Stocks 

 and Asters, all of which would do well in a cool and partially shaded position, 

 so also would dwarf Ageratums. 



Calceolarias Dving (Constant Su^scrifccr).— Deficient root-action is the 

 principal cause of your plants dying. The soil is not good enough, or water- 

 ing has not been regular and sufficient. They are probably also attacked by 

 insects. Calceolarias require a cool moist atmosphere to preserve them in a 

 healthy state. The fruit sent is the small Pear-shaped Gourd, and is very 

 ornamental. 



Rhododendrons and Roses Injured (M. B.).— Wedo not think that mice 

 have committed the injury. An insect is the culprit; probably a weevil of 

 some kind. 



Destroying Earth Nuts (In a Fix)."Since the bank is so large and the 

 plants of Bunium fioxuosum are so numerous, we can only advise your mow- 

 ing off the tops as soon as you perceive them. If this is done frequently the 

 roots will decay ; at any rate if the pUnts are prevented flowering the hoys 

 will not be attracted by them and destroy the turf by searching for the 

 roots. 



Doublf. Polyanthus (IT. i)/. B.).— The flowers sent to uh were so much 

 dried that we could not judge of their merits. They appear to be very double. 

 Preserve the variety, and send us fresh flowers another year. 



Statice Holfobdi (J. H. B.).— Tho plants are suffering in consequence 

 of the atmosphere being too close and moist. Avoid having the fohage wet 

 when the sun's rays fall powerfully upon the plants. Statices require a light 

 airy position, and s^hould be carefully wat'red, avoidmg making the soil 

 sodden, and yet giving a good supply when the plants are in free growth. 

 They should be potted when fresh growth takes place, having been kept 

 rather dry over the winter. A compost of three parts of hght fibrous loam, 

 one part of tuify peat, half a part of leaf soil, and a half part in equal pro- 

 portions of silver sand, pieces of charcoal, and old dry cow dung, well incor- 

 porated and used rather rough, potting firmly, and providing good drainage, 

 wilh a light well-ventilated position in a greenhouse, will grow the plants well. 



Lily of the Valley Overcrowded (R. G.).— We should supply the 

 plants with liquid manure liberally during dry weather, and in November 

 thin out the plants, selecting such as have good crowns for forcing. They 

 may be placed in pots or pans about an inch apart, be plunged overhead in 

 ashes, aad forced as required. We should thin the plants in the bed. leaving 

 clumps abaut 6 inches across, leaving space of that width all around them, and 

 manure well. The plants removed may be planted out in well-manured beds 

 1 foot apart every way, in little clumps of about 6 inches in diameter, the 

 crowns being three-quarters to an inch apart. Mulch the beds after planting 

 about an inch deep with soma thoroughly decayed manure or leaf soil. In 

 planting thecrowos should be just level with the surface. After being planted 

 two years the clumps will be in good order for lifting for forcmg. 



Dedtzia not Thriving (G. 3/.).— The plant would be best planted out in 

 good rich Ught soil in an open yet sheltered position, and this we should do 

 at once, cutting the plant down to within a few inches of the soil ; or if you 

 wish to keep it in a pot you may shift it at once into a pot a size larger, 

 using a compost of light turfy loam enriched with a fourth of well-docayed 

 manure or leaf soil, and place it outdoors in a sheltered situation on ashes. 

 It would, however, be best to plant out so weakly a plant. 



IxiA AND Leaves Scorched {R. K. P.).— From the atmosphere being 

 kept close and moist we should attribute the injury to the foliage. More air 

 and freer watering at the roots would probably afford a remedy with a light 

 position. The plants should not have the sun's rays fall powerfully upon 

 them whilst wet. 



Applying Arsenic to Gravel Walks (H. ^.).— It would bo dangerous 

 to use arsenic upon gravel walks to which fowls have access. We have no 

 experience of carbolic acid for destroying weeds. 



Culture of Calla (Richardia) -ethigpica (J. H.).— It is quite right to 

 water them very freely during growth— liberally, in fact, with liquid manure ; 

 but a better plan would be to form trenches, as for Celery, in a position 

 sheltered from winds, manuring well. We shouldbardou the plants off. divide 

 them, and plant out. watering them very freely in dry weather, taking up and 

 potting them in late September, and they will afterwards flower freely. 



Crystals of Ammonia for Geraniums (Bucfcs).— We have little experience 

 of these, and what we have is not satisfactory. Perhaps your frieud would 

 let out the secret of which we know no one in gardening can keep excepl at a 

 disadvantage. Moat secrets of the kind are myths. 



Management of Beqonias (Ificm).— Continue the seedliugs in heat until 

 they can fairly be handled, then put them off singly in 8-inch pots, returning 

 them to heat, and continuing therein until well established, after which 

 remove to the greenhouse, shifting into larger pots as required. The heated 

 frame by a paraffin lamp we should be glad to have particulars of ; if with a 

 section, and cost of oil all the better. Have patience with the bulbs ot 

 Begonia Frcebelli, they will start into growth early next month. The best 

 mode of preeerving tubers of Begonias is to keep them in dry sdud m a box in a 

 position safe from frost. The small seedling had not formed tubers, aud the 

 older bulbs had not had water gradually withheld so as to ripen them. 



Sowing Primulas and Calceolarias (Wcm).— The Primula seed should be 

 sown at once in a pot or pan well drained, using a compost of loam two parts, 

 with a third of old cow dung, well decayed manure, or leaf moil, just covermg 

 the seed with fine soil, placing in a frame, aud shading from bright sun. If 

 the frame be heated the seed will germinate sooner and more surely, and 

 when the seedlings have one rough leaf aud show the second pot them off 

 singly in small potis, or prick them off in pans 1 inch to li inch apart, placing 

 in a cold frame kept close and shaded from sun until established, then admit 

 air moderately, shading from bright sun. If pricked off lift gently when the 

 plants meet and pot off singly. When they fill the pots with roots sbift into 

 6or7-inoh pots, returniog them to the frame, giving air moderately, aud 

 shading slightly, watering as mav be required. lu October bnfore frost 

 remove them to a light airy position in the greenhouse. The Calceolaria 

 seed should be sown the first week in July in a pau watered before sowing, 



