January 7, 1869. ) 



JODBNAIj of HOBTIOULT0RB AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



well not to wet the foliage, as doing so is apt to canse too great 

 sncoulency of growth ; tlio watering at such times pliouM bo 

 without a rose, bnt in line weathor a rose watering-pot is best. 

 It is well to keep the stems of the plants dry, as well as the 

 soil for some distance round. 



It is not necessary to syringe Cucumbers when grown in 

 frames or dung beds, as the evaporation from the soil in most 

 oases supplies enough of moisture to the atmosphere, but in 

 very hot weather it is advantageous at the time of closing or 

 shutting down the lights to sprinkle the foliage overhead with 

 water through a fine rose. Though this is desirable in hot 

 weather, in order that the plants may recover more speedily 

 from the loss occasioned by the excessive evaporation, in dull 

 weather it is undesirable, as it encourages the production of large 

 flabby leaves so succulent as not to endure hot sun ; therefore, 

 syringe or sprinkle the I'lants overhead in dry hot weather 

 only, and at the time of shutting up, bo that they may have the 

 full benefit of the moisture, and have their foliage dry before it 

 IB again exposed to powerful sun. 



Ventilation. — Air should never be given with the view of 

 lowering the temperature, but to prevent its becoming too 

 high. It should be given before the temperature becomes too 

 high, and then in such proportion as not to reduce it ; indeed, 

 the heat, on the proper principle of air-giving, should increase 

 rather than decrease after air is admitted, or rather air should 

 be afiorded in such proportion to the heat of the frame and 

 that of the external air tliat the heat will progressively in- 

 crease. As a rule, a little air should be given when the tem- 

 perature is above 75^ and not exceeding S(J^ ; and the tempera- 

 ture increasing, as it ought, the opening for the admission of 

 air should be greater as the temperature becomes higher. The 

 temperature with sun heat may rise to 0()^ which, if accom- 

 panied with air progressively furnished, will not distress the 

 plants ; but if the temperature be allowed to rise to 90°, and 

 air be then admitted in quantity, a reduction of the heat will 

 take place, and the plants will receive a check in consequence, 

 and the foliage will in extreme cases of this kind flag from the 

 hot moist air being suddenly replaced by eold and dry air. 

 The above remarks apply more particularly to the early part of 

 the season when air requires to be very cautiously given, as 

 the difference between the temperature of the external air and 

 that of the frame is then greatest, and the plants, being young 

 and tender from growing in a warm and moist atmosphere, are 

 most susceptible of the contending influences of cold and dry- 

 ness. At such times the hot air of the frame is soon displaced 

 by the cold air, which, becoming heated, takes up moisture 

 more readily, and the surface of the leaves is not only too 

 suddenly cooled but dried. As little air, therefore, as possible 

 should be given at such times, and only for the purpose of pre- 

 venting the temperature from becoming too high, and the 

 foliage from becoming thin and flabby through being grown in 

 too confined an atmosphere. 



Cold draughts should be guarded against, as they are very 

 injurious, especially in winter and early in spring. The evil 

 effects of cold air may to some extent be mitigated by placing 

 over the openings two or three thicknesses of hexagon or 

 woollen netting. This will prevent a too rapid egress of hot, 

 and ingress of cold, air. These precautions will not be bo ne- 

 cessary in summer as in winter, nor in mild weather as in cold, 

 but the greater care taken to give the plants a change of air 

 without depriving them of the moisture or heat so essential to 

 their healthy growth, the better will be the result. 



Air cannot be given too soon after the proper temperature 

 has been attained, and it must be in such quantity that the 

 heat shall rise with the increase of solar light and heat, and as 

 the latter declines the ventilation must be lessened, and, if 

 need be, entirely suspended when the temperature falls ; if 

 the temperature of tije air in the frame should rise a few 

 degrees after the lights are closed, it is better than allowing it 

 to become too cold before the lights are closed. Ventilation 

 should be admitted by raising or tilting the lights at back, 

 and not by pushing them down, which causes a draught always 

 more or less injurious. — G. Abbey. 



FOR 



GEAFTING A VINE— THE CIOTAT 

 OUT-OF-DOOR CULTURE. 



I HAVE a Black Hamburgh Vine trained in double cordon 

 along the front windows of my greenhouse, and I should like 

 to cut off one branch and graft it with a Muscat Hamburgh ; 

 the branch is an inch in diameter. Could I do so ? Must I 



cut it back and graft on new wood ? I saw some time ago that 

 persons were speaking about out-door Grapes, but nobody 

 mentioned the Ciotat or Parsley-leaved Grape, which I have 

 seen ripen its Grapes against the wall of my house (and an 

 abundant crop), for the last thirty years almost without failure. 

 The leaves, too, are very ornamental, and useful for table 

 decoration. 



I have at this time a pot Peach tree in a lean-to orchard 

 house in blossom, much to my annoyance. — II. Fov. 



[You can cut the stem of your Vine and graft as you propose 

 and side-grafting is as good as any. We used to do it with a 

 piece of wood containing two buds, one at the base of the 

 scion, and one at the point, and the best time to graft is just 

 before the sap begins to move. Inarching is performed on the 

 wood of the current year. In your case we would be inclined 

 to plant a Vine at the end of the house and train it up the roof, 

 instead of cutting away half the Vine that runs along the front. 

 We should move the Peach tree in a pot to where the frost 

 would not reach it.] 



POMOLOGICAL GLEANINGS. 

 We shall soon have Tanc.ieeine Oranges as common amoHg 

 us at Peaches. Dr. Newington, of Ticehurst, has sent us some 

 of his own growth, as fine as any we have ever seen, both in 

 size and flavour. What marvellous changes cheap glass has 

 worked in our gardening notions and practice ! 



THE ^VEATHEE, IN iwtiR. 

 The following are extracts from the weather tables kept at 

 Brinkburn Gardens, Darlington : — 



The highest temperature registered during the year was 94i° 

 on the 2nd of August, and the next highest temperature 94' on 

 the 7th of September. The lowest temperature was 15" on 

 December 30th. — Henet Wand, Brinkburn. 



EARLY FORCING OF RHUBARB. 



At page 445 of our .Journal, occurs the remark, "Who wiU 

 tell us how best to obtain good Ehubarb at the end of Novem- 

 ber or beginning of December ? " This is a question that affects 

 most of those engaged in early forcing, and it is very desirable 

 that such questions should be brought prominently before the 

 gardening community and answered in a practical manner, for 

 information would thus be elicited that is at present lost to a 

 laige portion of its members. 



It is no easy matter to procure good Rhubarb at the end of 

 November and in December. There can be no doubt but one 

 cause of failure is not having the crowns well matured, for 

 I, like the questioner, have at times seen a second or third lot 

 of Ehubarb supersede that first taken in for forcing. For early 

 forcing I find it necessary to have the roots well prepared ; 

 three-year-old seedlings which have been grown in favourable 

 aspects and well cultivated are very useful. Stools divided 

 and treated in the same manner answer equally well. Two- 

 year-old seedlings may be taken up, potted in large pots, and 

 plunged in leaf soil or any material that will prevent evapora- 



