48 



JOUENAL OP HORTICDLTUBE AND COTTAGE GAEDENEB. 



[ January 21, 



species ; Erioa, the hartly species ; Berberis aquifolium, Ledum 

 or Leiophyllum tbymifoliuin, and L. palustris ; Vinca major 

 (Periwiuklc) ; Piinos glaber (Winterberrj) ; Daphne pontica ; 

 I). coUina, D. gnidiiim, and D. eneorum ; Cupressus and Juni- 

 perus, several species ; and Kuscus aculeatus (Butcher's Broom). 

 A selection made from plants similar to these, and arranged 

 so as to combine a pleasing variety with harmony of effect, 

 would supply all that could be desired. 



OREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



Most operations here should still be performed as early in 

 the morning as possible, in order that the atmosphere and 

 floors may be in an enjoyable state later in the day. Orange 

 trees in tubs are liable to be affected by soot fungus, which 

 should be thoroughly cleared off at all seasons, but more especi- 

 ally now ; let the leaves be washed clean with soap and water 

 and a sponge. Decaying leaves or unsightly plants must be 

 kept constantly removed, and their places supplied with fresh 

 material from the forcing pit. In addition to small plants, 

 such as Chinese Primulas, Rhododendrons and Camellias will 

 now be making a good display. Stores of hybrid Roses in cool 

 pits intended for growing in pots for a late display, may now 

 be potted off singly, using one half loam, the other half leaf 

 soil, manure, and charcoal dust. If a warm and moist heat 

 can be obtained, introduce some Fuchsias intended for speci- 

 mens and for propagation. Keep a mild atmosphere in the 

 mixed greenhouse, and beware of too much night heat. Avoid 

 the application of stimulants; maintain, if possible, all pre- 

 vious growth, but do not encourage any addition to it till the 

 proper season arrives. An average temperature of 45° will 

 be sufficiently elevated. 



STOTB. 



At this season the inmates of our stoves and greenhouses 

 seem as links to connect the floral season of the past with that 

 of the future. There is not, perhaps, a single feature in the 

 caltivation of plants during the winter in which the amateur 

 is more likely to err, and by reason of which a greater amount 

 of injury is occasioned, than in the application of water, either 

 as a liquid or in vapour ; if applied directly to the soil in great 

 quantities, the roots, being at this time inactive, are certain to 

 sustain more or less injury, and if it is applied in excess to the 

 atmosphere in the form of vapour, the exhalations from the 

 leaves of plants will be checked, and in either case the plants 

 ■will materially suffer. It is diihcult to give precise rules for 

 the performance of operations such as supplying moisture; as 

 a general principle, however, with reference to plants in pots, 

 no more water ought to be given at the roots than is suftioient 

 to sustain the energies of the plant ; and scarcely any more 

 should be supplied to the atmosphere than arises from the 

 evaporation-troughs on the hot-water pipes, none should be 

 applied by the syringe. Examine carefully trellis plants in 

 pots; those which have received considerable rest and are re- 

 quired to flower in good time should now be pruned, disrooted 

 if necessary, and started on a mild bottom heat. Some of the 

 Passion-flowers, and such plants as Ipoma?a ficifolia, I. Learii, 

 Pergularia odoratissima, <tc., answer well treated in this way. 



PITS AND FRAMES. 



Plants in frames intended for bedding-out in the summer 

 require especial attention to guard against both damp and frost. 

 Such plants should be fully exposed to the air at all times 

 when it can be admitted to them without risk, and they should 

 be kept as dry as possible, never watering them except when 

 absolutely necessary, nor taking oft the sashes in damp weather. 

 Coverings sufficient to exclude frost should be duly applied, 

 and should be elevated a few inches from the glass so as to 

 enclose air beneath them, which will act as a non-conductor of 

 heat. — W. Keane. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST ^VEEK. 



OwiNo to the still prevalent wet weather the work has been 

 for the most part a continuation of that of previous weeks. 

 We will, therefore, make some remarks suggested by our own 

 observation and experience, and the inquiries of various corre- 

 spondents, as to the evils and the way to obviate the incon- 

 veniences of stagnant water. 



Stapnant Water. — Water is ever an advantage when it can 

 be kept in its proper place and made to subserve a definite pur- 

 pose. Water in tanks, reservoirs, and ponds is, therefore, valu- 

 able as a makeshift, but as a sanitary agent for plants and 

 men it is not to be compared with that taken from the purling 

 brook or the rapid-flowing river. The greater the decline of 



the stream, and the consequent more rapid flow, the purer anci 

 the healthier — other things being equal — will the water be, as 

 it will absorb and contain more of the vital air. Last summer 

 we were glad to obtain water in any shape ; but some time 

 before our ponds failed it tried some of the men very much, 

 as they used it for watering. All such reservoirs when ex- 

 posed, however ted, are sure to contain organic matter in the 

 shape of tree leaves swept into them, and these with leaves 

 undergoing a process of decomposition, will less or more make 

 the water ffctid and unpleasant. However useful these reser- 

 voirs are, it should not be forgotten that if left solely to them- 

 selves they in course of time may become the fruitful source 

 of malaria and low fever to the neighbourhood. 



Even ground very retentive of water in the neighbourhood 

 of our dwellings becomes injurious and unpleasant, though 

 not in an equal degree to that which is the result of the large 

 festering pond. These ponds of mixed water, as well as yards 

 for stock, so often close to farm houses, would be more inju- 

 rious than they are but for the fact that the residents spend 

 so much of their time in the open air. Having the ground free 

 from stagnant water near our residences, and in our gardens 

 and pleasure grounds, becomes, therefore, a matter of import- 

 ance. Into the large subject of draining we do not propose to 

 enter at present, but we merely wish to give a few hints which 

 may be useful to the holders of small gardens which have no 

 connection with any main system of drainage. 



Our first remark is, that there are many soils which, from 

 their character and the absorbent and open character of the 

 subsoil, need no drainage, and the expense of draining them 

 would only be thrown away. We are not aware that tha 

 greatest rainfall in any part of the country would be injurious 

 to the soil ; nay, quite the reverse if the rains freely percolated 

 through it and did not remain stagnant at or near the surface. 

 One inquirer A, has drained his garden 3 feet deep, and with 

 a fall of 1 foot in 30 feet ; soil sandy loam, with clay for sub- 

 soil ; and yet, except after the heaviest rains, no water comes 

 from the drains, and even then very little. He is advised to 

 drain the adjacent meadow, though it seldom seems overmoist. 

 We should say. Let well alone. Most likely the under clay in 

 his garden is mingled with strata of gravel or open marl, and 

 in such a case the superfluous water will disappear without 

 troubling itself to find its way to the drains. Before going to 

 the expense of draining the meadow we would dig holes in it 

 2 and 3 feet deep. If water stood in the 2-feet holes, and rather 

 deeply in them, we would drain. If hardly any stood in 3-feet 

 holes we should not think of draining. Subsoils are often 

 deceiving. Shafts driven into gravel, sand, or chalk will gene- 

 rally take off much superfluous moisture. Even clay with 

 marl in it is far from being so impervious as clay alone. The 

 breaking of such a subsoil and leaving it — cracking as it were 

 the pan which held the water confined near the surface — will 

 often do much to male the surface soon dry. Even that break- 

 ing of the subsoil will cause drains when made to work more 

 freely. Of course we will allow for exceptions ; but as a 

 general rule, so far as carrying off stagnant moisture is con- 

 cerned when water will not stand in test holes, we should be 

 careless of draining, further than disposing of a superfluity of 

 surface water. 



B " drained his garden and field some years ago, subsoil 

 clay. The drains ran well at first, but do not run now ; he 

 used semicircular tiles without bottoms. What had better be 

 done, as the meadow even is quite sloppy ?" We fear that th» 

 drains must be taken np and relaid. The want of soles for 

 the drains is probably the chief cause of failure. The super- 

 incumbent weight has sunk the tiles in the clay, and the water- 

 course is thus choked up. A floor of slips should always be 

 laid, and the tiles laid on so as to cross the joints. For want 

 of this precaution, and to save a little in the first instance, we 

 have known large tracts of drained land little better of the 

 drainage in the course of five or six years. Cylindrical tiles, 

 now so commonly used, from 2 inches and onwards in bore, are 

 safer :in this respect, as less likely to sink irregularly. AH 

 such drains are better if made in the wedge shape, say 2 feet 

 wide at top, and 5 inches wide at the depth of 30 or 36 inches, 

 A few stones, or even spray and branches, over the pipes keep a 

 larger space open and lessen the weight. When turf can be 

 had, as in a meadow, it is well to cut a thick wedge, grass side 

 downwards, and ram it firmly in the opening, leaving a space 

 of inches or so over the tiles. We have known ground 

 drained in this way alone without either tiles or stones, and 

 the water run for many years. A strong earth-arch was thus 

 formed over the narrow opening at the bottom. It would be 



