m 



JOUENAL OF HOBTICDLTUBE AND COTTAGE GABDENER. 



[ May 6, 1869. 



favour of their mode of treatment — viz., that they can secure 

 a crop, even if a small one, in two-thirds of the time that 

 the cottager does. I have nothing to say in reply beyond 

 stating my opinion that a fast life among plants of any kind 

 is generally a short and dangerous one, and that it renders 

 the ridge Cucumber more susceptible of disease and death. — 

 TaoXAS Keooud, Lillcsden Gardens, Ilmvklmrst. 



.SALVIA SPLENDENS, AND OTHER SPECIES 

 OF THE GENUS. 



At a time when the cast-off plants of the conservatory are 

 likely to receive indifferent treatment, it would be well to look 

 after one or two species whose beauty for the season, it is true, 

 may be over, but which with a very small amount of attention 

 may be serviceable again next year. Of this class of plants 

 the Salvias are perhaps the most really useful, and the first on 

 the list is Salvia spleudens. If moderate-sized plants of this 

 be planted in rather poor ground, it is very likely they will 

 just grow sulliciently to be taken up in the autumn well set 

 with bloom buds in all directions. I have often turned out 

 old plants of it and Salvia gesneraiflora and Eeedii in some 

 vacant spaces in a shrubbery, where they have enjoyed the full 

 snn, and have just grown enough to make up for the partial 

 cutting-down they had prior to being planted out, or they might 

 even somewhat increase in size ; but it is better to have some 

 smaller plants to come on, and to throw the very largest away. 

 I do not, however, recommend the planting of S. spleudens, if 

 very small, in rich ground. It is true the plants there grow 

 fast enough, but they do not remove well, and the wood is so 

 very brittle that the chances are that many of them will be 

 hopelessly broken in the taking-np. The same may be said 

 of the other species. I therefore prefer rather poor ground, 

 and, as before stated, some openings in a shrubbery afford very 

 good sites for plants nearly as large as the shrubs themselves. 

 Other places may do as well, perhaps, but avoid a too rich border. 



I must remind my readers that Salvia spleudens requires 

 taking up before frost sets in, as no plant that I know is more 

 sensible to it ; but it removes very well if prepared beforehand 

 by the spado being run down just as far from the collar as the 

 side of the intended pot will be. This ought to be performed 

 a fortnight or so before the plant is taken up. The other Salvias 

 may be treated the same, and the pots being brought to the 

 place where the plants are growing, the transfer from the ground 

 to the plants' winter quarters need not cause such a sacrifice 

 as is often the case when they have to be removed to the potting 

 bench, losing a large portion of the ball at every change. 



Although the preceding treatment is advised with regard to 

 established plants of Salvia, it is not necessarily confined 

 to them. I have occasionally treated Coronillas in a similar 

 manner, and by planting them on a dry sunny knoll have had 

 them showing flower beautifully in the autumn, which is the 

 time at which they are wanted, as Cytisns and the numerous 

 Acacia family come into flower in the spring. In the case of 

 Coronillas cars must be taken that they have not suffered from 

 undue exposure in the cold spring months, as a forced plant 

 tamed out of doors in the cold east winds of the early part of 

 April has but a poor chance to live, let alone flourish, and 

 perfect its growth early in the season. I would not advise the 

 experiment here described to be tried on such plants — at least, 

 success must be very uncertain. With the Salvias, however, 

 there is more hope, and the;r planting-out cannot be too strongly 

 recommended to all who are anxious to lessen the amount of 

 watering in the dry summer months — a matter of no little 

 importance to many with whom water and the means of dis- 

 tributing it are not too plentiful. — J. Eobson. 



TENDER ANNUALS.— No. 3. 



Sensitive Plant {Blimosa sensitiva), is a pretty-foliaged 

 free-flowering plant with light pink flowers, but its chief merit 

 consists in the leaves falling when touched. It is an old 

 favourite. It attains a height of 2 feet, and in some cases 

 3 feet under good cultivation. 



The seeds should be sown early in Apiil, in a compost of 

 two parts sandy fibrous peat, and one part loam, with a free 

 admixture of silver sand. Before sowing the seed the soil 

 should bfi made fine, but for the plants, &c., it is best rather 

 rough. Tlie pots, after the seed is sown, should be plunged in 

 a hotbed having a bottom heat of 75", and a corresponding top 

 heat. Tlie soil must be kept moist, and the plants near the 



glass, and a moderate amount of air ought to be given bo as to 

 keep them stiff. When they are 2 or 3 inches high they 

 should be potted-off singly in pots 2 or 2J inches in diameter, 

 placing them up to the seed leaves, and should be returned to 

 the hotbed and shaded for a time until they become esta- 

 blished. After thai they cannot le kept too near the glass, 

 nor have too much air, so long as a temperature of from 60* 

 to 65" at night, and from 70° to 75° by day without sun, and of 

 80° or 8o° with sun is maintained. The plants should be well 

 supplied with water, but avoid keeping the soil saturated, not 

 giving any water until the soil becomes dry, but watering 

 before the foliage flags. A moist atmosphere should be main- 

 tained, and a gentle sprinkling overhead morning and evening 

 will be of advantage. Whenever the pots are full of roots the 

 plants should be shifted into pots a size larger, and before tha 

 roots are very much matted, and this should be continued 

 until the plants show for bloom, when they should have their 

 final shift. They may be grown fine in 6 or 7-inch pots, but 

 for large plants 8-inch pots are not too large, good drainage 

 being provided. To keep the plants erect the pots should be 

 frequently turned round, and any irregular growths may be 

 shortened or stopped so as to secure a close pyramidal form, 

 which is, perhaps, the best ; and if large plants are required 

 the flowers should be picked o2, and weak liquid manure given 

 at every alternate watering, but not until the pots become 

 filled with roots. 



Whether we look upon Sensitive Plants as curious, or as 

 having fine Acacia-like foliage, they are deserving of a place in 

 every stove. They require a stove temperature, though they 

 succeed tolerably well in a greenhouse, after being sown and 

 kept growing in a hotbed until of good size, and then removed 

 to the warmest part of the greenhouse, where, however, they 

 soon lose their sensitiveness, whichjinereases with heat and 

 decreases with cold. 



Thunbekgias. — These form fitting companions to the tender- 

 flowering annuals before named, and are very desirable for sus- 

 pended baskets, vases, and for training to pillars and low trellises 

 in the conservatory ; also for growing in pots, when trained to 

 stakes as pillars or cones, or to fancy wirework in the form of 

 globes, and in other shapes. They are climbing plants, and 

 mostly have yellow flowers, though there are some with white 

 flowers. The principal kinds are Thunbergia alata, yellow, 

 and sometimes the eye of the flower is brown or black — it is the 

 best sort; T. alata alba, white, with a brown or black eye, very 

 pretty ; T. aurantiaca, orange, black eye — only a form of T. alata, 

 better coloured, and having the black eye, which in the true 

 T. alata is absent ; indeed, all the kinds in the seed catalogues 

 are only varieties of T. alata, as Bakeri, white ; intus Candida ; 

 sulphurea, flava, yellow ; and Frieri, white. All are fine, and 

 with other tender annuals, when well grown, render the green- 

 house and conservatory quite gay during July, August, and 

 September, when flowering plants are scarce, as these are either 

 in other quarters, or undergoing a course of treatment neces- 

 sary to secure their flowering in winter, spring, or early ia 

 summer. 



The seeds should be sown early in April unless early flower- 

 ing be desired, when they may be sown early in March. A 

 bottom heat of 70° or 75° is necessary, and 80° or 90° will not 

 be injurious. Use a compost of two parts turfy loam, and one 

 part sandy fibrous peat with a free admixture of sharp sand. 

 When the plants have two pairs of leaves, counting the seed 

 leaves, pot them off singly in small pots, and return them to 

 the hotbed, keeping them close, moist, and shaded until esta- 

 blished, then expose them fully to light and air, and keep them 

 near the glass. Never allow the roots to become very closely 

 matted together, but shift the plants into pots a size larger 

 when the roots reach the sides, and shift again until they are 

 in 7 or 8-inch pots, mixing with the above compost (which 

 should be used in a rather rough state and on no account 

 sifted), one part of old cow dung, and pioviding good drainage. 



The plant should have the point of the shoot taken out 

 when it has made two pairs of rough leaves, or if the plants 

 are weak take the points off immediately above the first joint, 

 and this will cause side shoots to be produced, and an in- 

 creased amount cf vigour. The shoots must have their points 

 taken out at the second or third joint as often as they are pro- 

 duced, and every flower should be taken off as it appears. To 

 have the plants strong the atmosphere must be moist, and 

 they should be syringed overhead morning and evening so as 

 to keep down red spider, their great enemy, and be plentifully 

 supplied with water. 

 Stopping must not be practised after the plants are in their 



