May 27, 1809. ] 



JOURNAL OF UORTICULTUBE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



359 



[Gro8 Guillaume] Vine celebrity, whose invariable custom is 

 to cut down pot Vines at any time during the rising of the sap, 

 not, however, as a matter of principle, but from necessity, and 

 who allows them to bleed unchecked, hence he entertains a 

 complete diercHard for artilicial styptics, and when interrogated 

 as to the philosophy of such vandalism, my friend refers you 

 to the practice of a modern local Eseulapius, now deceased, and 

 withal a most successful Grape-grower, whose custom it was to 

 cut a slice off the end of his Vine rods every morning during 

 the rise of the sap to promote bleeding until nature could 

 afford no more. I believe he adopted such a measure from 

 the idea that it induced a more regular break of the bud. 

 What say our vegetable physiologists to this flagrant contempt 

 of styptical aid ?— Wm. Gardiner. 



THE PORTABLE ORCHARD. 



{Continued f rem page 314.) 

 If you desire larger trees than tli.it represented mfuj- 22, you 

 mu.st r.Uow anothiT tier or whorl of branches to spring from the 

 central shoot, originating fnuu just above the d of this shoot — 

 that is, we must treat this portion of the stem just as we did the 

 lower portion of it the year after it was grafted. AVe must cut 

 elean off all the spurs on the central stem below d, and shorten 

 the portion above, so as to leave seven well-developed eyes im- 

 mediately above d. The new tier of branches springing from 

 these eyes must be treated txactly as those of the first tier ; and 

 if a still larger tn.-o is wished for, successive tiers may be formed 

 at about every two years. Small trees, with two or three whorls 

 of branches, may be easily formed by allowing the eyes of the 

 previous year's wood to grow after each cutting-back. However, 

 for potted trees two tiers will he found quite enough. 



Fig. 23. 

 Vig. 23 is a sketch of a pyramid of lirger size with several 

 whorls, not quite regular, but capable of being made into a very 



good tree in the course of another year or so ; it is 12 feet high. 

 I will proceed now to point out its defects, and the remedies 1 

 intend to apply. By discussing a few actual trees, I hope to 

 make the mystery of training tolerably clear. 



Tile lowest six branches have been tolerably regular in their 

 growth, hiiving been formed in the way previously described. 

 The second tier, however, is not a veiy successful one ; the 

 euntral shoot has not been cut down low enough, when it was 

 shortened in order to produce this whorl of branches, and tho 

 result is too great a distance between the branches forming tho 

 wliorl. I!y leaving too many buds, branches did not grow from 

 all of them, and in conseciueniie some have grown just over 

 (jthers, so that some parts of the tree are too open, and others 

 too crowded. Tho branch m has been made to fork in order to 

 supply a shoot further round towards the left ; the short hne 

 indicates tho place where tlie cut will be made to remove the 

 other half of tho fork. When this amputaticn has been made, 

 the second tier will be quite regular enough. Our next tier, e, 

 is sadly deficient on the left-hand side, but two hr.anches will be 

 observed at Ji, that seem quite out of place; thev have been 

 allowed to grow in order to fill up the gap at o. The way this 

 filling-up will be done is by cutting these shoots back to a little 

 below 0, in order to obtain two good strong terminal shoots from 

 them. These terminal shoots will be inarched to the stem near o 

 about the middle of August, so as to supply branches on each 

 side of 0. For two or three years these inarched branches will 

 be shorter than the rest of the tier, and to encourage their 

 growth, all the rest of the upper part of the tree must be kept 

 from vigorous growth by close summer-pinching, or cutting the 

 leaves. These additional branches might be formed by side graft- 

 ing, using scions with terminal wood buds ; but the two branches 

 at n are so well placed for inarching, that there can be no ques- 

 tion of making use of them, for the new branches so produced 

 will be far stronger than any from side grafts. As the tree is 

 not intended to be allowed to grow any higher, the branches on. 

 the stem above the whorl at o will be cut as indicated by the 

 short lines. In succeeding years tho central shoot and the side 

 branches will be shortened to within one or two eyes of the pre- 

 vious season's growth ; this will le.ave an inch or two of new 

 extension for each year. A good strong leading shoot ought to 

 arise fn im each branch every season, and be permitted to grow 

 up to the end of August, unless any of them are inclined to be 

 rampant, in which case they must be stopped at an earlier date 

 than the rest. Unless free growth is pemiitted to these ter- 

 minal shoots the tree will not be productive. — W. Kinoslet. 

 (To be continaed.) 



THE ARRANGEMENT OF CUT FLOWERS.— No. 1. 



The value of foliage, Ferns, and Grasses in the arrangement 

 of Mower vases is but little understood. The flowers themselves 

 are frequently massed together, with no green to separate them 

 from one another, or to relieve the effect of an indiscriminate 

 mixture of colours. A few simple flowers elegantly arranged 

 will contribute more to the adornment of a room than the most 

 brilliant bunch of exotics put clumsily together ; and even wild 

 flowers when well arranged are by no means to be despised. 



Single flowers, with a few leaves or a Fern frond placed here 

 and there, in small glasses, have a charming effect and give 

 very little trouble ; but the larger the vase the more care mast 

 be taken in its arrangement. If a high vase with an opeu 

 mouth, flowers with long stems will be found the most useful, 

 and less foliage is required than in many other styles. A vase 

 of this sort filled entirely with Grasses may be made to look 

 exquisitely soft and lovely. A few ears of Wheat, Barley, and 

 Oats, with a variety of Grasses — the finer sorts placed near the 

 edges, and the heavier ones towards the centre — will be found 

 a good arrangement ; but each blade should be put in sepa- 

 rately, in order to obtain beauty of form with great lightness. 

 Care should be taken to leave no gaps, and yet the Grasses 

 should not touch each other. A handful of flowers all alike, 

 such as the Dielytra or the Fuchsia, are easily arranged and 

 are very effective. In shallower vases also, a group of Prim- 

 roses, Anemones, Pelargoniums, Ac, freely interspersed with 

 foliage look very well, and are quickly put together, but wheii 

 the flowers and colours are much mixed a more elaborate style 

 is necessary. 



Many beautiful vases are now made, consisting of a group of 

 glasses, which almost secures a certain amount of lightness and 

 elegance ; but the exhibition vase, which is still a favourite, 

 depends entirely on its arrangement for its beauty. Being 



