J«0« 10. 18(19, ] 



JQOW^UU,, QF ^QB3>XCULTUilfi..ANP OOTiU-GE OAUUKNKIJ. 



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Cloches (^T. *'^cj/fNuur).— TJjcso, ^cU-|rl'^*^^^ wJlJ-suii 70a exocUr ioz 

 protoctiog Cdullflowrr plants and rM(ifD^ cuiUiipfl. ft«tftil they ftre ntf!y 

 U. Qil., mid where a dozen or moro nre tnlcen, M^'n^rii. Vh4nipfl A Co, allow 

 a discuuiit. Tbry eim bo Ftored within ouo nnothor when oot requircU- 



\'ARiKOATKn /.ONAi, PELARnoNiosre (An Jhrnirfln^hiTi' G'triU-ner). — Wo 

 Ihiuk tliut the c^i^nyij will not be piihlisbed ia a tiepitrato foriii, 



GuAKO Wateii (,V. a.)-— Ontiouticou^gunnoto two(;alluuHo( watormuy 



he U3od to nil tho vet^'l■tab1o8 you uientiou. I>o nut pour it over tbo loavetj. 



Calceolabia Flovvf.rs (ir. A. 0.).-lt is not common for tho Cnlcoo- 



Inrift to prodnco elonfjnted, ohnoRt tubuhir flowerc, yet wo have noticed 



the occarrcKCo more tbnn once before. 



Cephalotus KOLLirrr.ABiH TREATurENT OF (All GUI Sub>icrfhi'r).—lMt 

 mi tho pot uith crockt), uud usn ii couiixist oi e(inal parts of chopped 

 sphftKuuin mid turfy peat full of whito sand, with a third part of char- 

 coal, in piL'ces from the size of a pea to that of a walnut, and crocks, 

 woU njixiuj? tho whole. Introduce the plant, and niido the coiupost in a 

 «one slightly higher than tho pot rim. If tho plant is small the pot may 

 bo placed in one of lorger size, filling the »pace between tho sidos of the 

 two potd with crocks up to within an inch of tho top, tht-n put in a little 

 moss, and fill level with the rim with sand. The soil in the pot may be 

 .surfaced w ith fresh moss, taking care not to bury tho plant too deeply. 

 Tho plant &honld be covered with a bell-glass with ono or more holes in 

 the top, according,' to fiize, and fitting exactly witliin the rim of the pot : 

 or if tho latter he placed in a larger pot, the glass tshould rest on the sand 

 bctweou the two. The pot may to set in a saucer kept fnTl of water. 

 Sprinkle the plant with water every morning tbroagh ft fine rose, and 

 ivipo out the gl.iss. The plant succeeds in a winter temperature of from 

 4"/ to 50", and in summer in one of from 60° to 75' or 90' from sun heat. 

 Removing Vine Shoots (Idfvi).— You may remove all tho slioots ex- 

 cept one, if the Vinos arc strong, and that showing fruit best Bhould be 

 retained, rubbing or cutting tho others off closely ; but if the Vines are 

 weak leave two of the strongest shoots on each spur, cutting away the 

 fruit from one. Allow but ono bunch on each spur, and with the larger 

 foliage you wi)l keep up a better root action. The shoots left should be 

 kept as near the main stem or rod ns possible. One of these shoots 

 should bo cut off quite closely in December, and the other shortened-in 

 to two eyes. 



Plants Infested with Iksects {G. 3f.).— The black dnst adhering to 

 the leaf enclosed to us is caused by some insect, but what wo aro unable 

 to say, though we think it attributable to some species of aphis. The brown 

 scales on the twig are the brown tcale insect, and a worse case we have 

 not seen. Tho scale may bo destroyed by syringing the plants with a 

 solution of 3 ozs. of soft soap to the gallon of water, using it at a tempe- 

 rature of 140'. The best plan, however, is to dress the plants when at 

 rest with r. solution of soft soap, at the rate of 4 ozs. to the gallon of 

 water, using a brush. Rub it well into the crevices, takiag care not to 

 dislocate the buds. Fowler's Insecticide, Githurat Compound, and 

 Clarke's Compound are also good for freeing plants of this pest. 



Vine Leaves ScoRtnED (Wcm).— The leaf is badly scorched. The 

 evil is caused by not giving air early, so as to have the leaves dry before 

 the sun shines powf rfnlly upon them ; or it may arise from their being 

 too near the glass. The shoots shonld be trained to wires 16 Inches from 

 the glass. 



Training a Vine {Onr Fond of Grape Cidture).—** You have done quite 

 right, according to fancy, in converting the Swcetivater Grape Vine from 

 the spur into the long-rod system. It will do perfectly, will become 

 longer-lived, and produce finer Grnpes in consequence. You will meet 

 with every information that I think can be desired, as regards out-of- 

 door Grape culture, in my articles jnst appearing in The Journal of 

 Horticulture. The Vine cannot be ■ killed ' by overbearing, nor can the 

 trainer go wrong on the system X pointed out.— Upwards and Onwards.'' 

 Ground Vinery (S. C.)-— It had better face the south, and be protected 

 from the north and east winds, but not overshadowed. The Black Ham- 

 burgh is the variety to be preferred. If you buy a Vine in a pot, and do 

 not disturb the roots, you may plant it under the vinery at any time. 



Grapes Cracking {F. W. Gcc).—U your Vine is very old it wonld not 

 be desirable to raise the roots and replant, but meantime it would be 

 well to examine the soil beneath the pravcl, and only use liquid manure, 

 or liquid of any kind, if the soil ia dry. Dissolved bones would be as 

 good as any, about 7 lbs. to thirty-six gallons of water, and less the next 

 barrel. But for the gravel, you might give a top-dressing. The Vine wonld 

 be benefited by moving the gravel, then taking away as much of tho 

 old soil as you could safely in autumn, and replacing with fresh ri< h 

 compost, and a thin coat of gravel on the surface, if you must liavc it. 

 We do not discover signs of mildew on the berries, but they were much 

 ^rivelled. We rather fancy they are blotched or scalded with hot moist 

 air, owing to not giving air early enough. Berries will crack from too 

 moist an atmosphere and a want of root action, but we think your cracks 

 have been made by the Grape scissors pricking the berries when young. 

 (O. F.). — Grapes frequently crack in the bcn*y when there is too much 

 moisture at the roots, and a close, moist atmosphere maintained inside 

 the house. In the latter case more air and a dry atmosphere are neces- 

 sary : and for some kinds more liable to cracking, covering tho border 

 ont'side with glass sashes saved them from the evil. 



Vinery {Wfi^t Oxford).— As to the plana of the vinery, Ko. 1 and Ko. ?, 

 we should be glad to have either. With the wall to build No 3 would be 

 tho cheaper at first. In a cold place N'o. 1 will be better, as the glass hip 

 of No. 2 will cause more firing if forcing is to be used. There is nothing 

 against your double flue through the house and returning by the back 

 wall; but sometimes they do not draw equally without a little care, 

 and, unless you force early, the single flue wonld do. With eight Vines 

 in a length of 25 feet, you may save yourself all trouble about the back 

 wall, as nothing wDl flourish there after the Vines are established and 

 cover the roof. At first Peaches and Fig trees in-iwti wonld do very 

 well. The whole might be (-helved from top to near the bottom for 

 Strawberries and Dwarf Kidney Beans, and they would do well until the 

 Vines shaded tliera. The shelves woull keep many plants in winter, 

 if deemed necessary. With from five to six Vines in the bouse, Peaches 

 would do pretty well on the back wall, and in such case a border should 

 1)0 made for them. 



Mulberry Blossom (H. O. ,V.}.— In the Multerry, the long drooping 

 catkins are the male flowers, and some of those sent show the stamens. 

 Small oval, upright masses are the females, and we incline to think that 



tho small ones nontare ao. aa we thought wo could dlatiugaiiih the booked 

 or turnov'er Htipmata. Tiib flower rbeeptacles being oft different troofi 

 would not militate againht thiw idmi, ns tho Mulberry is both inomncloofl 

 and dioisloas, Tli© small mastwH woro mlher munh preBsod to enable as 

 to be sure. If, contrary to tho abovo, both the long apd abort nuianoa. 

 arc males, then most likely tho long catkins belong to Morus nigra, and 

 the short niio to Morns taturica, or Home oue of that kind. A general 

 rule is. that tho males are long and pondulouH, nnd tho female maaMI 

 short, ovrti, close to tho shoot, and iipri^^ht. 



GoosEnERRV CATERi'ii-Lvns (./. Jl. ir.l.-'Dnst them with fresh Wluto 

 Ilollcbore powder. Syringe tlie berrios thoroughly aftorwaritt 



ViiTATOv.a {J. N. C.).—Vo not earth them up at all. Knrtbiug-tip re-, 

 tards tho matariug of the crop a fortnight, and, consequently, ronders it 

 more liable to the distaso. Tho Potatoes are safoat that can bo taken op 

 at tho end of July. 



Valuing Garden Crops {W. TT.).— Wo know of no rule lor valoinjj 

 growing crops in a kitchen garden; but they would bo more valuable to 

 tho in-coming tenant than anyone cUa. It would be easy t.i obtain a 

 fair estimate fur outlay, labour, Ac ; but the beat plan of all would be 

 for yonr employer to appoint a gardoner or a nurseryman in the neigh- 

 bourhood, and the out-goin'4 tenant to employ another. Their award 

 would be more satisfacory than ono made by you, as your omp'oyor'a 

 servant. A garden, for instance, with plenty of vegetables near a town« 

 would be more valuable than a similar garden where the produce woifld 

 Lo of littlo value if it could not be u^ed there. 



CoNSERVAToav Arrangemknts (fi. r.).— We approve of tho proposed 

 arrangements. Two rows of pipes round the conservatory would do, if 

 you would be satisfied with from ir,' in winter. If not, you must havo 

 more. There is no reason for raisini* n pipo above the front border near 

 the :'' iss. Heat will ascend. You wiU have in your other houses ample 

 heating power for anything, even if the water in the pipes is rarely above 

 from 150" Vi 160 '. Much comfort and success di/pend on never having 

 tho water in tho pipes very hot. You will easily maintain a temperatnTe 

 of from 65' to 70", if desirable, in cold weather. Cool-house Orchids 

 could be grown in the vinery and conservatory, and oven Orchids that 

 required a high temperature if you forced one vinery early. 



Applying Soapsuds (0. C. G.).— You may apply soapsuds and chamber 

 slops to kitchen garden crops, pouring them ia between tho rows of 

 Cauliflowers, to Peas, Scarlet Runners, Kidney Heans, and Celery, but 

 not undiluted, for if strong the liquia will injure, aud in time destroy the 

 roots of the plants. Three times tho bulk of water should be added to 

 the slops and soapsuds, and then you may safely apply the mixture to 

 all the plants you name, except tho Pelargoniums and the Vino border. 

 giving it copiously aud not in dribblets, and during dry weather. It 13 

 also good for Asparagus and Soa-kale. 



CucuMHEBS Ulcered (A Subscriber).— The cracking of tho footstalk 

 and consequent ulceration, aro due to the great vigour of the plants, and 

 may be occasioned by the soil being too rich or too wet. There is no 

 remedy but to give the p'ants more room, letting them spread, and con- 

 fining stopping to pinching-out the points of the shoots one joint beyond 

 the fruit, keeping rather dry at the root, but not so much so as to cause 

 thefoliaiie to flag Any leaves ulcered sliould be removed, and if the 

 disease appear on the stems remove them close to where they originate. 

 Admit air freely and early in the morning, shutting up early in the after- 

 noon. 



CucTJMBEna NOT SWELLING (J. H. C ).— We cannot account for the 

 fruit not swelling, as you say the heat is good top and bottom, and the 

 plants arc stopped one joiat beyond the fruit, tho shoots not too close 

 together, air given, water applied carefully, and everything dons to in- 

 sure success. We conclude from your statement that there is no faalt 

 in the treatment, therefore wc advise you to cut away all the old shootB 

 that had the fruit formed upon them two months ago, and leave some ot 

 tho best young shoots, training them over the bed at from 9 to 12 inches 

 ap-ii-t ; stop these shoots one joint beyond the fruit— that is, if they show 

 fruit before they are within 9 inches of tho side of the frame ; but ijnot, 

 stop them at that, and keep them stopped to one joint beyond the fruit; 

 or, if no fruit show, stop them at the second or third leaf. Water so as 

 to keep the soil moist, but do not saturate it by heavy watering. Admit 

 air early in the morning, and shut up early in the afternoon, gi™JK a 

 sprinkling of water overhead before doing so. A good Cucumber for the 

 roof of a coul vinery is Stockwood Ilidge; but if you keep the house 

 tolerably warm it is Ukely that Telegraph would succeed, and it is one 

 of the best Cucumbers. 



Cucumbers Failing (An Amateur).— We think your plants have not 

 sufficient heat. Thin out the shoots, not allowing them to become too 

 crowded, encouraging the young growths, and cutting out the old shoots, 

 stopping the young shoots one joint beyond the fruit, or, if they do not 

 show fruit, stop them at 9 inches from tho aide of the frumo. If there 

 ia not enough of shoots, they may be stopped at tbe thud or fourth 

 joint, so as to induce the production of shoots for furnishmg the bed at 

 from 9 to 12 inches apart. Except in very hot weather no shadmg 13 

 necessary— indeed, we never shade Cucumbers, unless when newly 

 planted, or after a period of dull weather, and only then with an old thm 

 mat during the hottest part of the day. You can hardly give too much 

 .air if you maintain the proper temperature; admit the air early in the 

 day, and shut up early in the afternoon. Do not overwater, but give 

 enough to keep the soil moist and prevent the leaves flagging. 



Cucumber Disease {)V. S. D.).— Wo can offer you no remedy. See 

 what Mr. Fish says at page 313. 



Camellias Infested with Aphis (^ma(ciir).— It is difficult to tell ths 

 cause of your CameUias being attacked with insects. You may destroythe 

 aphides by syringing them with tobacco water, that of the shops or from 

 the tobacco manufacturers being diluted with six times its volume of 

 water; or it may be made by boihng 2 ozs. of shag tobacco in a gaUon of 

 water for five minutes, covering up until cool ; then strain, adding suffi- 

 cient water to make three gallons. This may be syringed over the plants, 

 or the shoots infested dipped in it, which is a more economical plan, 

 and even more effectual. 



Strawberries for Light Soil (^. B. C.) — It is of little use attempt- 

 ing Strawberrv culture on light soils, unlessthe ground be deeply trenched, 

 and the soil "well enri.hed with cool manure, cow dung being best. 

 The manure should bo put in the bottom of tho trenches, and n^ed 

 generally through the soil, and top-dressings of rich compost, as loam 



