iH 



JOURNAL OF HOETICOLTUBE AND COTTAGE GABDENEK. 



[ July 16, 1888. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



••• We request that no one will write privately to the depart- 

 mental writers of the "Journal of Horticulture, Cottage 

 Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they 

 are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All 

 communications should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of llorticulturc^ (&c,y 171, Fleet 

 Street^ London, E.C. 



We also request that correspondents will not mix up on the 

 same sheet questions relating to Gardening and those on 

 Poultry and Bee subjects, if they expect to get them an- 

 swered promptly and conveniently, but write them on 

 separate communications. Also never to send more than 

 two or three questions at once. 

 Books {R. .Vii?fr).— Stephens's "Book of the Farm." 



SUPPLEBEEST OF " COTTAGE GARDENERS* DICTIONARY " ( W. S. W.).~The 



Supplement contains all necessary additions down to the end of last 

 year. 



Catalogue of British Plants (M. H. ^.).— We know of no such 

 catalogue as you mention. 



Gasometer near Vinery (O. Broirn).~Ii will not be at all infarious 

 to the plants either in a vinery or in the open air. 



Seedlings (A'.). — There are very many better varieties of Pelargoniums 

 and Fuchsias than those you enclosed. If the only merit of the Petunia 

 is the yellow in its leaves it would not be valued. ' If the seedling Pelar- 

 gonium with tricoloured leaves, not two of which are alike, proves per- 

 manent in this peculiarity, it may be a desirable acquisition. 



Seedling Verbenas (G. Mason). —They were so shrivelled that wo can 

 only say that the trusses are good nnd the colour (crimson) very rich. 

 You had better send them to the Floral Committee as you propose. 



Rating Nurserymen's Grounds (An Old Correspondent) . — If overseers 

 rate them improperly, the remeriy is to appeal. It is useless to complain 

 unless the remedy has failed in procuring redress. 



RoLLissoN's Cucumber (W. S.).— Your notes refer to statements you 

 made in a contemporary Journal, and our readers would not know to 

 what you refer. 



Veitch's Early Ashleaf Potato <J. li. P.).— The sample sent is 

 very good of this very good early variety. As the tubers are quite ripe 

 we have no doubt that you will succeed in raising a second crop this 

 year, for it is a quickly-growing and quickly-maturing variety. We shall 

 be glad to hear the results of your experiments, nnd at the same time to 

 know when you planted, a ad when you took up each crop. 



Exhibiting Grapes [James Murraji).~^e cannot advise, not knowing 

 the terms of the exhibition. If tho prize is merely for the best Grapes, 

 attention need only be paid to the weight, ripeness, colour, and bloom. 

 If to artistic an-angement, then it must be left to the exhibitor's taste 

 and opportunities. 



Strawberries for Soccessional Bearing in a Stiff Soil (A Snh- 

 seriber).— Taken all in all, you cannot have three better than Keens' 

 Seedling, British Queen, aud Eleanor, but as you do not like Keens', you 

 might substitute President or Premier, and as the British Queen does not 

 bear well, you miqht have Dr. Hogg, or the fine-flavoured and rather free- 

 fruiting Myatt's Eliza, an old sort but good. 



Figs (G. S.).— The cause of your first crop of Lee's Perpetual being 

 firm and *' like solid meat," is because the flowers have not been fertilised, 

 or only partially so. This is very apt to bo the case with the first crop. 



Frogmore Late Pine Strawberry (IT''. iT. ;./.).— The following is the 

 description given in Hogi:r's " Fruit Manual :"— " Fruit very large, conical, 

 and cockscomb-shaped, with a glossy neck like the Old Pine. Seeds not 

 deeply imbedded. Skin glossy, bright red, becoming dark red, and almost 

 black when ripe. Flesh tender and very juicy, red throughout, richly 

 flavoured, and a good deal of the Pine aroma when well ripened." 



Roses (Idem). — If you know what constitutes a good Rose, then the 

 requisite number of such good Roses would constitute a good stand of 

 them. Each variety ought to be shown accompanied by leaves of that 

 variety. 



Budding and Cuttings of Manetti Roses (Bn^fnasfof).—" You may 

 bud Manetti stocks as soon as, and as long as the bark will run. When 

 you bud very late the bud should be ripe. Early in the year a little eye 

 will take as well as a ripe one; the slice being sappier it will often take 

 better. If the weather is not stormy but hot. as now, put either a Dock 

 or other leaf over the aewly-insertcd bud. Always water the stocks a 

 day or so before budding, and also afterwards. Watering causes a gi-eater 

 •flow of sflp. With a trowel scoop away the ground, and remove the 

 suckers, cutting them clean from the stocks. Bud as low as you can do 

 on the main stock. You may bud, it you like, on the wood of the current 

 year, and also on the brood, but it is best to bud on the main stock if the 

 bark will separata or run. After you have budded the stocks let the wood 

 remain on, and in September you may remove a portion of it for pro- 

 pagation purposes. It strikes very easily. Tread in the shoots, 10 inches 



long, firmly ; and in winter shake amongst them horse litter or stra^. 

 Bury the stocks 5 or 6 inches deep, and leave a leaf or two on the 

 shoot above ground. Give them a little water occasionally in the hot 

 autumnal weather. Roses generally, I hear, are at this time in a sad 

 state Trom excessive heat and fungoid diseases. I have tbree men em- 

 ployed in mulching and watering my Roses. I scrape away an inch of 

 ground over the roots, put on three ahovelsful of black decayed horse and 

 pig manure, water copiously, and then return the removed earth over the 

 dung. Finally, buy Alfred Colomb, it runs Charles Lefebvre closely. It 

 is the best Rose tliat has been out for years, and is first-rate in its bloom 

 and also in its foliage, growth, and habit. The best light-coloured Rose 

 of late date is Princess Mary of Cambridge. It only wants more in- 

 tensity and fixedness of colour. — W. F. R.\dclyffe." 



Compost for Potted Roses (liose).—^* The best compost for pot Roses 

 is one-third each of rich atifl" clay, sand or fine 'ashes, and decayed 

 black dung. Let me add that Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Roses, Straw- 

 berries, Hollyhocks, and Dahlias all like cow dung. For the last two it 

 is, perhaps, the best of manures. It contains more potash than any other 

 animal manure ; hence, as potash is the grand constituent of a Straw- 

 berry, it is also excellent for that delicious fruit ; in a word, I believe it 

 to be one of the best of manures. The same may be said of soot, which 

 contains nitrogen and carbon. For pot Roses use a skewer to make holes 

 in t(:e soil to let in the water.— W. F. Radclyffe." "The Garden 

 Manual" will suit you. It will be sent free by post from our office if you 

 enclose twenty postage stamps with your address. 



List of Superior Roses [Henry Worrall). — " I presume good growers, 

 hardy Roses, free bloomers, and constant bloomers are desired. Yellow 

 — Gloire de Dijon, Ct-Une Forestier, and Triomphe de Rennes. These 

 Roses should have plenty of room, and do not require to be cut much. 

 lilush — Marguerite de St. Amand, La France (new), Caroline de Sansal, 

 Mdlle. Euiilc Boyau, Madame Knorr ; and for the autumn. Souvenir de 

 Malmaison. Brilliajtt Crimson — Charles Lefebvre, Alfred Colomb, the 

 two best ; Senateur Vaisse, Lord Macaulay, Lady Suflield, Maurice Ber- 

 nardin, Duchesse de Caylus, Madame Victor Verdier, Lord Clyde, Madame 

 Boutin. Marechal Vaillant, Mdlle. Annie Wood, fine, but shows an eye ; 

 Madame Julie Daran, Leopold Premier, George Prince. Gabriel de 

 Peyronny. and Dr. Spitzer. Pale Dove Pn(fc— Baron Gonella. Rosy Pink 

 —Jules Margottiu. >r/ti(c— Baronne de Maynard, Madame Freeman, 

 Marguerite Bonnet (fleshy white), Madame Alfred de Rougemont. Daik 

 Crimaon— Pierre Netting (a gi-and Rose), Vicomte Vigier, Due de CaztB, 

 Souvenir de Comte Cavour, Eugene Verdier, Baronne Pelletan de Kin- 

 kelin. Maroon— Vrince Camille de Rohan, Souvenir de Dr. Jamain, Em- 

 pereur de Maroc. Rose 6'oiour— Baronne Prevost, Comte de Nanteuil, 

 Thoriu (new), La Duchesse de Morny. Charles Rouillard, John Hopper, 

 the best, one of the finest Roses in England. Its colour is crimson 

 rose. Piiifr- Comtesse Cecile de Chabrillant. TFarj/ Flefh—'MTS. Bosan- 

 quet. I conclude with a few words on new Roses. Alfred Colomb is the 

 finest by far. Horace Vernet and Antoine Ducher are excellent growers 

 with fine foliage ; they are large and fine, with deep petals, but they have 

 not yet been full enough. Fisher Holmes is a nice red Rose. Charles 

 Verdier is distinct, and I think it will be good. Mdlle. Marguerite Dom- 

 brain when not tucked in the side is estja fine. Princess Mary of Cam- 

 bridge is an improved Auguste Mie, and taken at all points is tho best 

 Rose of light colour, as Alfred Colomb is the best of the rich colours 

 that has come out lately.— W. F. Radclyffe." 



Vines Cut Back not Starting (T/n'sf??).— Cutting down Vines six 

 years oJd to within 2 inches of the ground was a bold proceeding. The 

 reason of their not starting is, that no eyes were left below the cut, but 

 it is not unlikely that the Vines will yet start. More length of stem 

 should have been left, cutting down to the lowest young wood on the 

 stem from which the Vines would have pushed fresh canes freely. Vines 

 will in most cases push from the old wood, as there are many embryo 

 buds or eyes which remain dormant for a number of years. We have 

 had them push vigorously on stems of twenty years' growth. 



Seedling Carnations (UAmojir).—The seedlings are seldom so good 

 at the first flowering as at the second and afterwards, but you will be 

 able to form an opinion in the first year of flowering as to whether they 

 promise anything good in form and colouring. If you have room for them 

 in the border by all means retain them, for if not good in a florist's eye 

 the flowers may be valuable for bouquets. 



Amaryllis Seed Sowing (Amateur). —The seed should be gathered 

 when ripe, and we prefer to sow it at once in pots well drained, and filled 

 to within an inch of the rim with a compost of two-thirds rich yellow 

 loam, and one-third sandy peat. We then put on a little of the same 

 kind of soil, but finer and dry, make the surface even by patting it with 

 the bottom of a flower-pot, scatter the seed over it rather thinly, and 

 cover with a quarter of an inch of fine soil, the least possible depth being 

 left to hold water. The pot is then placed on a shelf in the stove, and it is 

 not watered until the beginning of February, when the soil is moistened 

 by a geutle watering. We then plunge the pots in a hotbed and en- 

 courage growth, keeping the soil moist. The pot remains in the hotbed 

 as long as there is anv heat, and the soil is preserved in a moist condition, 

 and a good heat is given so as to keep the young plants in a growing 

 state as long as possible, but giving a short rest by diminishing the supply 

 of water in November. December, and January. In February they are 

 again placed in a hotbed, and forwarded in a brisk heat with plenty of 

 nioisture, and when they have made a growth, which they will do by 

 June we pot them off singly in pots about four times the diameter of the 

 bulbs and so that the bulbs are buried to the neck. They are again 

 returned to the hotbed, giving water abundantly and atmospheric 

 moisture, keeping them well supplied with moisture up to October, when 

 the supply is diminished, but so long as there is foliage give enough 

 water to keep it from flagging. The pots are top-dressed m January, re- 

 moving the old soil down to the roots, and it is replaced with rich rather 

 strong loam from rotted turves. Do not distmrb the roots or interfere 

 with the baU, but if the drainage be defective rectify it. Plunge the 

 pots in a hotbed, encourage growth with water as required and atmo- 

 spheric moisture, and in May shift the plants into a larger size of pot, 

 not disturbing the roots or ball beyond removing the crocks and any 

 soil not adhering to the roots. Retm-n the plants to the hotbed and keep 

 them growing as long as they appear disposed to do so, giving ft good 

 supply of water, and when growth ceases remove them from the hotbed 

 by degrees and set them on a shelf in the full sun in the stove, giving 

 water so as to prevent the leaves flagging, diminishing it, however, when 

 these show i^igns of going ofl", and keep the soil rather dry during the 



