Angnst 27, 1868. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICOLTUEE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



151 



tho leaves for '2 or 3 inches, pare the haso of the ciittiuj^ smooth, ami 

 insert it in a compost of sandy peat coveroil with an inch in thickness 

 of silver saiul. A moderate waterintj should he pivon, and tho cnttiups 

 covered with a bell-glass, and placed in a frame, tho lights of wliich 

 should ho kept close and shaded from the aun until roots are emitted, 

 then gradually admit air, and remove tho bell-glasses. Tho rootinj; 

 of the cuttings will be ]ironioted by insertinj^ each in a 3-inch pot ; and 

 when a cailus is formed remove them to a frame on a hotbed, and 

 plnngo tho pots to the rim in sawdust or tan. The hotbed should 

 then have a temperature of 70^. Tho yonng plants from cuttings 

 should bo well hardeued-off, wintered in a cold frame, and planted out 

 in spring. 



Grafting is, perhaps, the best way to obtain a stock of established 

 varieties. The best stock is Rhododendron ponticum. The stocks 

 should bo slightly thicker than tho gi-afts. (irafting should be per- 

 foimed quite close to the ground ; indeed, better below it, and just 

 above the setting-on of the roots, as there is then less liability to pro- 

 dace suckers, and the graft or scion will have an opportunity of form- 

 ing roots should it bo disposed, and thus obtaining nourishment by its 

 own roots. 



The stocks, of whatever kind (some using the seedlings of the hybrids, 

 which I do not like, as the growth of the named varieties upon them is 

 tardy), ought to be jilanted during the autumn or spring, previous to 

 grafting either closely together in beds, so as to allow of their being 

 covered with a frame, or in pots, so that they can be removed to a 

 frame when worked. 



The best time to graft is towards the end of Angnst, or early in 

 September, when the young shoots have ripened. The head of the 

 stock should be cut off 6 inches or more from the ground, leaving some 

 poi'tion of the leaves on the stock ; and immediately above the setting- 

 on of the roots put on the scion by side grafting, which is just the 

 same as whip grafting, only the head of the stock is not entirely re- 

 moved. A growing shoot of the current year should be chosen. Secure 

 the gi'aft with matting, and cover it with clay or grafting wax, and if 

 convenient cover the clay or union with soU. sawdust, cocoa-nut refuse, 

 or other material. Place a frame over the plants, putting on the 

 lights, and keeping them close until the gi-afts have taken. Wedge 

 grafting may also he employed, hut 1 do not think it is so good as side 

 grafting. In spring the head of the stock should he rut off close to 

 the union of the stock and scion. Grafting may also be performed in 

 spring, just before or when the stocks are commencing growth. 



Inarching is an eligible mode of propagation, being best performed 

 in May and June. Budding is sometimes practised ; it is best per- 

 formed in August, and is a convenient mode of propagation, 



PUintiiVf. — The most suitable time to plant Rhododendrons is in 

 September, but if they are removed with good bulbs, it may be done at 

 almost all seasons. Transplanting immediately before flowering 

 diminishes the duration of the bloom, and if performed after the flower- 

 ing is over it has an injurious effect on the growth. Planting early in 

 autumn or spring is preferable to late spring and summer plautmg. 

 In taking up preserve as much soil as possible about the roots, for on 

 that depends the speedy re-establishment of the plants. Chopping 

 the ball and reducing it by beating is a practice that cannot be too 

 highly discountenanced, for it destroys the plant's feeders, and until 

 more are fonned it remains stationai-y, even if it does not retrograde. 



In planting, do not plant deeply, but merely cover the roots deeper 

 by 3 inches to allow for the loose soil settling. At the same time the 

 plant must not be elevated much, if at all, above the surrounding 

 ground level, for that would in dry weather only tend to deprive the 

 plant of moisture. After making the soil firm round the ball, give a 

 good watering, and afterwards whenever water is required it must be 

 supplied, otherwise the foliage and flowering suffer. 



If tko beds become overcrowded every alternate plant should be 

 removed, or the whole of the plants mnst be taken up and replanted 

 in autumn or spring. The latter period is, perhaps, the better of the 

 two, as the plants from crowding wUi have become somewhat tender, 

 and on planting in autumn at greater distances the foliage is apt to 

 be injured by severe frosts and cutting winds. Replanting affords an 

 excellent opportunity for renewing tho soil wholly or in part, and ac- 

 cording to my o\vn experience this should ho done every sixth year, 

 but where there is plenty of room between the plants, the soil will not 

 require renewal. A liberal top-dressing of equal quantities of leaf 

 mould and cow dung not less than a year old, should, however, he ap- 

 plied every year in March, and in June mulch the beds with short 

 grass mowings. Never put a spade into beds of American plants, but 

 keep them clear of weeds, and lightly point them over with a fork, so 

 as to prevent the surface cracking and becoming covered with moss. 

 Never go so deeply as to disturb the roots. If seed is not wanted the 

 trusses should he removed as the flowers fade, doing so will contribute 

 to a vigorous growth. 



When the plants are becoming unsightly any irregular growths may 

 be cut away, and if necessary the plant itself to any extent. This is 

 best done before growth takes place, or it may he deferred till imme- 

 diately after the flowering. Rhododendrons hear cutting quite as well 

 as Laurels. — G. Abbey. 



NEW ROSES. 

 Ik answer to " Rosahian's " qneation, in page 110, I may 

 state that the following Roses have bloomed well this season, 



and will, doubtless, prove good — viz., Coquette des Alpes, pure 

 white, cupped, larger than Baronne de Majnard ; very vigorous. 

 La France, very light rosy lilac, very large and globular, free- 

 hlooming ; very fine. IiupcJratrice Charlotte, beautiful delicate 

 rose ; a very large and finely-formed flower. Madame la 

 Baronne de Ivothschild, soft delicate rose colour, very large and 

 cupped ; fine habit. Boule de Niege, white, medium size ; a 

 lovely cupped flower, lieine do Portugal (Tea), is a flower of 

 good form. It is medium-sized, of a bright coppery yellow, 

 very distinct, and should be grown by everyone. 



The above I am sure will be worth every Rose-grower's at- 

 tention, and will prove to bo standard flowers. No doubt there 

 are others of the same date which may ultimately prove as 

 good. — John Milton. 



WORK FOR THE ^^^3EK. 



KITCHEN CAEDEN. 



Ajteh the heavy rains which, according to all accounts, have 

 been general throughout the country, tho ground will be in a 

 fit state for planting out winter crops. Hoe, fork, and dig 

 among advancing crops. Arlicliokcs, it any of the rows are 

 seven years old, lose no time in cutting the plants down, and 

 trench the ground as deeply as you find it good ; not but that 

 the plants might go on for another seven years, and still bear 

 well enough, but it is bad management to let ground lie out o£ 

 rotation so long. Gooseberry, Currant, and Raspberry bushes 

 are often left on the ground until they cease producing through 

 sheer exhaustion of the soil. CauUfloicer, sow for the spring 

 crop. Lettuces, if sown now or a fortnight hence in an open, 

 airy space, will often stand the weather better than stronger 

 plants growing in more protected sitiuitions. Mushrooms, attend 

 to the beds in a bearing state, and continue to make fresh ones. 

 Radishes, sow for autumn and early winter use. Thyme, Sage, 

 Mint, and Tarragon, that were cut over last month, are now 

 becoming quite bushy again, and in fine condition to be taken 

 up for potting, or to be put in boxes for forcing gently in 

 winter. 



PEUIT GARDEN. 



The strawberry plants forced last spring and planted out in 

 May, having now done beating, should be taken up and potted; 

 the main portion of the old roots to be cut away in October, as 

 by that time there will be plenty of strong young roots produced 

 immediately under the surface of the ground. The plants should 

 then be put in a cold vinery for forcing by the end of January, 

 and a third crop will be gathered by the end of the twelvemonth. 

 Cutting off the leaves of Strawberries at this time is not a 

 worse practice than digging the beds in winter, as you cut off 

 all those fine roots formed late in the autumn near the surface 

 of the ground. The old plan of covering the beds with a rich 

 compost, leaving only the tops of the leaves above it, is the 

 best winter management after all. As soon as the fruit is 

 gathered from Raspberries, clear away all the old wood, and 

 any very strong shoots left at the summer thinning. Tie the 

 young shoots to stakes or rails. Fork in a coating of manure, 

 for, like the Vine, the Raspberry delights in rich feeding. 

 Attend to the directions previously given about Vines ; thin 

 out all useless shoots, remove leaves when they are too close 

 together, but, while exposing the bunches to more light, be 

 careful to leave a sufficiency of leaves to shade them from the 

 direct influence of the sun's rays. A number of Gooseberry 

 and Currant bushes protected by netting might now be enclosed 

 in mats to preserve the fruit longer. One advantage of covering 

 some now is, that the buds will be well ripened for nest season. 

 Put the fruit room in good order for the reception of fruit, and 

 gather not only the finer wall fruit as it ripens, but also a 

 portion of the crop of favourite Apples and Pears, so that by 

 sweating part of them with dry sweet hay, you will be enabled 

 to prolong their season. 



FLOWEK GAr.DEN. 



The beds here will require particular attention through the 

 autumn, and fingers and knife must be constantly at work 

 thinning, pruning, stopping, and regulating plants, and the 

 outlines of the beds. Every flower which offers to seed should 

 be cut away as soon as it begins to fade. Dahlias and Hol- 

 lyhocks, with other tall-growing plants, require to be well 

 trimmed and tied-up regularly to stakes. The hybrid Phloxes 

 are particularly gay at this season. Fuchsia corymbiflora in 

 rows or single standards will have a fine effect from this time 

 till frost comes. Prepare a piece of ground for sowing a general 

 collection of hardy annuals, which, in late situations, may be 

 sown immediately, but in favourable soUa the middle of Sep- 



